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About Casper0878

  • Birthday 06/08/1978

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  1. I plan on swapping a 2JZ GTE VVTI into my 1978 Datsun 280Z. My goal is to hit 500hp, nothing crazy and plenty of power for that car. I was thinking of using a Garrett GTX3071R 2nd gen or a GTX3076R 2nd gen. For my power goals these are plenty and spool up really quick. A video I saw on YouTube showed a 2JZ swapped 240sx hitting 509hp on 20PSI with 264 cams and pump gas and full boost at 3300rpm. Since I plan on using a CD009 out of a 350Z and the differential from a Q45 which is 3.54, my gears aren't going to be super tall so I would rather have something more responsive. Regarding the ECU, I was thinking of going with the ECUMasters EMU Black. Mainly because of their PMU-16 which would replace relays and fuses: http://www.wiringspecialties.com/ecu-master-pmu16-power-management-unit/ My other option was to go with a switch board from Speedwire Systems: http://speedwiresystems.com/listings.../turbo-systems Not really sure which is best. As far as injectors go, I heard that FID are widely used in the Supra community but I was also recommended Deatschwerks ID1000. Someone also recommended Evolved Injection but I was later told to stay away as they are a 2 piece injector. Looking for feedback here regarding their pros/cons. Also debating between 850cc or 1000cc. I also read that on a VVTI a DBW throttle body acts as IACV (idle air control valve). I need confirmation on this. Driftmotion sells a Universal Remote Mount Idle Speed Control. Then there is the question of coils. I was planning on going with IGN1A coils: https://induction-performance.myshopify.com/collections/supra-electronics/products/induction-performance-ign1a-coil-kit?variant=30079419329 But was recommended LQ9 coils which I heard some people have issues with at high HP, so they should be fine for me since I plan on keeping it in the 500hp range. Any help/advice would be greatly appreciated! Thank you very much for taking the time to read this.
  2. If I got the Q45 diff I would probably just get the whole subframe. Would be cheaper at the junkyard than to get the parts individually. Then I could have a 5 lug in the rear with the beefier axles that T3 would rebuild when I purchase their rear end conversion kit. How do you like the R154 with the 3.54 diff?
  3. Spoke with the people at T3 and since I plan on using their rear conversion kit I would need a 96 or lower Q45 differential. The 97 and up doesn't work. This is what they told me: 1990--->1996 Z32 300ZX Non Turbo comes in 5 lug hubs only (R200) CV's are 27 spline to 27 spline large CV Shafts have 5 star flanges 5 lug hubs CAN be swapped onto S13 and S14 CV's More attractive rear calipers E brake as a drum inside rotor 4.08 Final gear ratio 1990--->1996 Z32 300ZX Twin Turbo comes in 5 lug hubs only (R230) CV's are 28 spline to 28 spline CV Shafts have 6 star flanges 5 lug hubs from this car can NOT be swapped onto S13 or S14 CV's More attractive rear calipers E brake as a drum inside rotor 3.69 Final gear ratio 1990---->1996 Q45 comes in 5 lug only (stronger R200) CV's are 28 spline to 28 spline CV Shafts have 6 star flanges All Had Viscous LSD's 5 lug hubs from this car can NOT be swapped onto S13 or S14 CV's Standard sliding rear caliper E brake as a drum inside rotor 3.54 Final gear ratio And yeah, making this initial decision is difficult. I don't want to choose a transmission that isn't optimal then have to re-purchase the transmission, transmission swap kit to the motor and a driveshaft. Most likely I will be going with the Q45 VLSD 3.54 differential, just gotta decide what tranny to match it up to. What differential do you have with your R154? As far as turbos, I was thinking of going with a Precision turbo 6266
  4. This is not going to be a daily driver, just a fun weekend car. Maybe some canyon runs or a few laps at the track at events but that's about it. I just want a fun street car. I am definitely not trying to win any races or events in this thing as I am not going crazy modding the engine itself. Besides injectors, coils, ecu and single turbo the internals are staying the same. Having so many options available makes it really hard to decide what to go with. Things are so much easier on my RSX-S as there is only 1 engine I can swap for bigger numbers. What would you recommend? I want to get the most out of my turbo of course but also want something comfortable to drive. Gas mileage in my final gear isn't an issue as I'll only be driving this on the weekends. Do you have any info on the Q45? I looked online and some say that 90-96 is an R200 3.54 VLSD while others say it is 90-97. Then it also says 97 and up is an R230. Can't find a straight answer
  5. Oh yeah I know. Been talking to Brett over at Collins Adapters and he recommends this transmission over the 300zx anyday. Even though it will be more work to put in, they are more readily available should something happen to it. What I am researching now is the differential. My buddy has the 300zx tranny with the 3.7LSD diff and he says he has problems getting more than 5psi in 1st gear due to having to shift. I still have my stock 3.54 differential. Will that work with the CD009? Should I get the Q45 differential which is also 3.54? I know some Supras run 3.266 differentials. I was thinking of using a Precision Turbo 6266 so nothing too big. It would spool up decently quick and top out probably when I need to shift, idk just pulling this out of my butt lol
  6. Yeah even if only slightly, it still gives me less room to work with. Plus I have OCD and seeing the engine off centered would drive me nuts lol
  7. I found a guy on FB selling the McKinney transmission mount for the CD009. He also has the CXRacing engine mounts. Said I could have it all for $350. That's why I am on here debating which motor mounts to go with. Might just get the tranny mount for now so I can at least have it.
  8. Yeah the Tech2 kit includes all of that but only if I decide to go with an R154 transmission. I was thinking of going with the Nissan 350z CD009 tranny instead so I would only need a partial kit from Tech2, just the stuff to mount the motor, which they quoted me at $1,250. Seems like it should be a bit cheaper since they are taking out the driveshaft along with the transmission mount. I thought more like half price but it is what it is.
  9. Yeah my buddy sent me pics of his engine as it sits and you are right, it is a bit off to the passenger side. I saw pics of the yellow 240Z that Tech2 built for SEMA a few years ago and it seems to be perfectly centered, at least compared to the hood latch mechanism. Can't tell from the pic if it sits further back or not.
  10. Did you sell the Tech2 kit or do you have it available for sale? They told me it was bolt on but someone just told me I would need to weld the cross member to the car. Which is it?
  11. I was wondering if anyone has experience with these 2 brands of engine mounts. The price difference is pretty big so curious if one is CXRacing is just cheap quality and price or if perhaps Tech2motorsports overcharges ($1,250 for engine mount kit without tranny stuff) for their mount kit even though it includes a modified cross member and CXRacing doesn't. Also, a buddy of mine used the CXRacing mounts and says the only thing he didn't like is that the engine sat a bit more away from the firewall than he would've liked. Has anyone used the Tech2 engine mounts? How far from the firewall is the engine? Could you please post pics for comparison? Thank you!
  12. I just watched those videos. WOW! That is a lot of work!!
  13. Wow, thank you all for your responses. Seems like the general consensus is do it if I can fab the work myself and forget about it if I can't lol. Hope to continue getting info on this. Can anyone chime in on the differences they noticed? Did you go from stock S30 to S13/S14 and saw good improvements? Did anyone go from some T3 stuff to S13/S14? Thanks again for the info!
  14. Yeah trying to find out as much information as possible before deciding what to do. I have time so in no rush to jump into anything. Just started following someone on IG who is going to do an S14 rear and S13 front swap so the pics and info should be very helpful. My stepdad and stepbrother both know how to weld, but it still feels like a very extensive undertaking. Will need to continue doing research but all opinions are welcome. Thanks for replying
  15. Well I plan on keeping the 2JZ stock for now but eventually I want to do a single turbo, more aggressive cams, aftermarket ECU, bigger injectors and such. Going to go with 91 octane for fuel so no crazy boost. Would like to keep it around 450hp which should be easy to reach with the upgrades. Even stock I should be above 400hp I believe. I was going to get the front/rear LCA, tension rod, mustache bar, outer tie rod, drop mounts/dogbone combo, front and rear Wilwood brakes and I already have CV axles that need the adapter and the shorter shaft. Just wanted to refresh the suspension instead of just changing bushings and "cleaning up" the stock suspension. That was the plan and I had planned for it in my budget. I also have the wide ZG flares, just need to measure and cut to install them. I might take it on the track at events but definitely not trying to win any. Just want to have fun and enjoy the ride. More likely I will be looking for fun canyon runs and cruising on the highway on weekends as I don't plan on making this my daily driver. As far as smog, I know a shop in the area who helped me pass when my Integra couldn't. The mechanic across the street is a family friend so they hook me up. Just can't afford to get pulled over and sent to a referee for a visual inspection as the JDM 2JZ doesn't have an EGR valve.
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