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Todd

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    Nampa, Idaho USA

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  1. My car died again.....cotton picking used dizzy anyway. I bought a new CAS for $77 but am barely getting the 60 degree signal (thinking it was the 120, but its really a 60). Good grief. Todd
  2. The dizzy sends out two signals, a 1 degree and a 120 degree signal. You won't run without both. It took me forever to figure that out. I saw I had "a signal" from the dizzy and was thinking that wasn't the problem. I could nail that problem now! It would have been easier to troubleshoot if I had a spare dizzy laying around. When i found a guy with a parts car, I bought the computer, dizzy and center console for $120. I went back to buy more parts and he sent it off to be crushed! AAAAAAaaaaaaaarrrrrrrrgggggggggghhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh! I called the recycle place and its "gone". I think there are other years of ZX's that you can get your dizzy from. Someone, somewhere has another parts car. I just lost my heater control valve a couple weeks ago, that was a mess. I am going to clean up all the duct work before I put it back together. The dash is easy to remove, 4 screws across the top, 6 small bolts across the bottom, speedo cable and a few electrical connections (8 or so), two bolts for the steering column and the dash comes in and out that easy. I put my stereo back in last night as it sucks not having tunes going to and from work in Boise. Call Oliver at Z specialities in Washington, he checked out my ZX brain. He has alot of parts, awesome guy to know. www.zspecialties.com Later, Todd
  3. The problem was in the dizzy brains. Picked up a used computer and distributor for $100. Put the distributor in, started right up and has been running great ever since. I think it may have been that small square connector wire harness from under dizzy that goes to round wire harness connector near intake manifold. Geesh this took forever to figure out. Wish I would have had some good used parts to try to start with. Thanks for everyones help. Now on to front end suspension and rear end halfshaft ujoints. Todd Higgins in Idaho.
  4. So you gave me some hope and inspiration. Unfortunately after cleaning the ECU pins, it didn't start. I haven't cleaned the connectors pins, but I will this weekend. The pins didn't look real bad under the magnifying glass. Todd
  5. I put the old scope on the ECU. The ECU is not sending a signal to the transistor, and I get no activity on the tach. So, I am trying to understand what critical sensors (signals) it must see before it will fire. I found an electronic copy of the 280Z fuel injection manual on line and was hoping it was similar enough to my 280ZX that I could gain some understanding. 280zfuelinjectionbook.pdf
  6. I thought I might of had an issue with the Throttle Position Switch, so I checked it out and found that 0 ohms at idle was actually any where around 50 ohms and an open when depressing on the throttle actually was 5Meg. I got the new switch and it checked out 0 and infinity respectively. I read where if you don't have a good signal coming from the TPS, you won't start your car. The new TPS didn't fix it.
  7. FricFrac, I wouldn't go so far as to say that, when I can't seem to fix my issue without having someone else fix it for me. But, yes...I do have some tools and Electronics Tech/Eng experience. I pinned out every connection, relay, etc. only to find that I am not getting a signal from my ecu to tell my powertransistor to fire. I looked over the ECU and didn't find anything burnt. I ohmed out the transistor in circuit that sends the signal to the powertransistor, it wasn't open or shorted. I put the ECU back in, but before I hooked everything up, I reseated some connectors in the area and tried to pull out the dash (speed sensor that I want to get to). I hooked up the ECU and tried to start it. It started! Then I remembered I had the garage door closed, so i shut it off. When I try to start it again, it doesn't fire. I am close! Oh, so close. There is hope.
  8. I don't get any spark out of the coil. I think I have a bad connection somewhere between the blue wire coming from the ECU and where it plugs into the power transistor (ignition module on coil). I ohmed it out late last night and was getting 24K Ohm. It should be a direct short if you look at the schematic....unless I have the wrong blue wire. Further diagnosis tonight will help answer those questions. I looked inside the dizzy and the ecu, nothing out of the ordinary. I have verified that I am getting a 5V pulse from the dizzy. I did have the muffler welded on, I helped Jimmy hold it in place as he welded it. It must be a coincidence that I had an ignition problem after I had a new muffler installed. Thanks for the insight on the air cleaner, I have the K&N filter but need the 3" tube. I have a resource, so I will get something drawn up and made.
  9. I checked the ECU (CPU) for the green light, it was on when the key was in the on position. Hopefully the MIG welder didn't take out my electronics. I checked the fuel pressure, it has 40psi when the pump is pummping. 38 psi after it shuts off. 30 psi in the morning after sitting all night. Now its time to check the wires individually.
  10. The 280ZXT is my daily driver, it has been running fine up till I changed the muffler...then for some reason, I get no spark (verified by pulling plug wire and using spare plug to see if there is any spark across the gap). I haven't "checked" the fuel pressure with a gage, but when I changed my fuel filter in the midst of troubleshooting.......high pressure fuel sprayed everywhere. I will take my friend up on borrowing his fuel pressure gage setup. I have checked all my connectors for continuity, cleaned and repaired any questionable ones. I had pulled the MAF, checked continuity and cleaned it up. No rats nest there. However, I would like to remove the original 10 pound air cleaner and replace it with a K&N. I checked for continuity on my fuseable links, temp sensor, antiknock sensor, O2 sensor....etc. I have been reading the blogs and two things jump out at me that I am unsure of: The green light on the ECCS (ECU) and the wires that lead into/from the fuseable links. I seen one blog where the wire leading from the fuseable links was broken that caused the same described problem. Thanks for your insight.
  11. I changed my rotted muffler on my '83 280ZXT with a Dynaflow Turbo muffler two weeks ago. The car idles much smoother and has the power on demand, where as before it was as if I was driving around with my emergency brake on. It seemed like the engine wanted to go, but was restricted. The muffler was full of rust. The next day, I went to go somewhere in my car and after warming up. it died. It would crank over, but wouldn’t fire. A little later, it would start and ran fine. But then it would die for no reason. And then a little while later it would start again. I am thinking to myself, is this related (O2 Sensor, MAF Sensor, Fuel Pump, etc.) or is it just a fluke that this occurred after I changed the muffler. I had troubleshot the ignition system down to what I thought the problem was the power transistor on the side of the coil. If I put a heat gun to it, after 30 seconds, it would die. I ordered a new one ($137 at Carquest), got home, started my car and drove it into my garage. Pulled the coil, pulled the powertransistor and replaced it with the new one. It hasn’t started since. Even with the old original one, or the used one I had. I have my 5V pulse coming from my optical encoder in the distributor to the ECCS, and am getting a 12V to 7V transition on (blue wire on (–)) the primary side of coil. The coil measures .8 ohm on the primary and 8.9K ohm on the secondary. The spark plug wires each measure approx 8K. I get no spark. Any thoughts as to what would prevent the coil from firing?
  12. Todd

    Idaho Z cars

  13. Todd

    Godzilla

    1991 300ZXTT + 1969 Datsun 510 = Godzilla 510ZXTT
  14. has a 1983 280ZXT ignition problem.......

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