madkaw
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Posts posted by madkaw
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Going a different route with my car . Sold to me used with 30k miles . As you can see it’s super clean . I am willing to pop the cover if buyer requests .
asking 750$ships from 47401
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Looks like the same pistons I run with the dish . Smart man to put arrows on the pistons. You won’t put one in the wrong place like I did - lol.
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On 4/2/2024 at 3:51 PM, DuffyMahoney said:
Who told you to do 20 degrees at idle? What is all in timing? Like 7k rpms?
That’s what I run , 18-20 degrees .
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Where’s the English version !
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This tailshaft housing allows anyone running the Nissan T5 to upgrade to a World Class T5 and have the shifter in the stock Nissan position . This Aussie version of the T5 was made for the larger output shaft -1.5”. Basically you could grab a Foxbody Mustang transmission and slap this on and have the shifter in the Nissan location . Or you buy a brand new Tremec t5 like I did and swap out this tailshaft housing . Tailshaft comes with shifter rod which is required .
There are slight mods to make the World class work with the L series . The input shaft has to be the short 10 spline . That also means a change of clutch - which I run an organic Mustang clutch disc . The input shaft will have to have the nose machined down for the pilot bushing . Output is 26 spline so the DS will have to modified .
So far I have no complaints with the Tremec T5 other than the OD being huge .63 . 2400 rpm is 80 mph . I might get 30 mpg !
Reach out to me for any questions
I will ship anywhere .
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On 3/4/2024 at 11:25 AM, AydinZ71 said:
To get a butter-smooth start, I think you really need a start-up air solenoid
dialing-in the AFR at start-up using engine temp and/or initial start timer as an input will go a long way, but trying to keep a 700rpm idle when warm AND have the engine maintain an idle at cold-start without giving it some gas is a bit tricky without a smidge more air. Drive-by-wire would fix that too, but now we’re getting really fancy.
let us know if you figure it out, and what your settings are!
I am running a stepper IAC
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18 hours ago, Zetsaz said:
Good stuff to know! Once I get spark fixed with my new coils I might toy with the trim for the first 3 at idle and see if it helps even more. Idle/cold starts/warm up enrichment always feel like a mess to me
Starts are always the challenge I feel . Hot start when one side is struggling to get fuel makes it worse. I’m still working these things out myself with my new tune .
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Im still not keeping up -lol
Now tuning on a Protunerz intake . Not much different than the last intake but the longer runners help the low end .
Something I’ve noticed with ALL these plenum intakes is that the air is not always equal across the cylinders . I am probably one of the very few that has a 6-2 header that continue on to duals AND have a Wideband on each side of the exhaust . The tendacy of these plenums that under high vacuum situations ( idle or lower KPA) , the first 3 cylinders indicate that they run leaner - as if they are stealing the air out of the room . As soon as KPA gets above idle the AFR’s start to even up quickly . Not sure if you could detect this on the plugs unless you ran your engine very lean .
The Megasquirt 3X allows for injector trim which I have been adjusting . To get AFR’s to match up between the two banks I add as much as 20% to high vacuum cell areas . It also can be felt by a smoother engine operation . Now this is mostly over- run conditions and light throttle modulation during highway cruise .
I’ve checked calibration on my Spartan 14.7 wideband and they seem correct .
I have my ego sensors separated by banks . I guess I also wonder why tuner analyze won’t pull in more fuel in these situations , I use the same AFR table for both ego sensors .
Just thought this was interesting and most won’t see this with their 6-1 header where it all averages out
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9 hours ago, rturbo 930 said:
Could you change out the .63 5th for a .80?
I’ve reached out to Modern Driveline to see what Paul thinks . I think at the time he did offer a .75 OD at an extra cost . I didn’t think about this scenario . I’ve asked if I can use the NWC 5th gear like it was on my G Force
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Swapped out cams today and my back knows it . So I’ve never had this cam in with the Protunerz intake . I did run this Bonk 1 with the N42 intake . Lots of torque down low . The larger runners(38mm) are huge compared to the n42 and that alone moved the power band up the rpm’s range . The Bonk 2 just exacerbated the loss of low end .
i think this might be a good midway place to be .
Id probably say that the runners could be a little smaller to be optimum . I will dyno run this thing whenever I think I got it tuned in well .
Just found the only negative of my new WC trans. The .63 overdrive puts me right in the drone zone - it’s about ridiculous . Not sure what I can do about it . I have resonators in my exhaust - but might have to try a Hemoltz style to fix this .Good day all in all .
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SOLD!!!!!!
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I neglected to share my transmission upgrade/downgrade - depends on your perspective . I was previously running a GForce T5 with straight cut gears . Whine was cool for one year and I was over it . Loved being able to slam gears and not worrying about shock loading the trans . Really liked all the shifter options with the T5.
i know some guys don’t like the heavy/ notchy shifter , but I like the feel .
I didn’t want to replace the G Force with the OEM NWC T5 . Didn’t want a 71B or 71C and parts are getting scarce . CD009 meant more weight , less room and more retro fitting .
What I did was found a way to run a new Tremec T5 world class . I had to source a tailshaft from a WC T5 that put the shifter in the right position . NWC output shaft is only 1.3” and a WC is 1.5” so you can’t use the NWC tailshaft unless you weld build it and machine it out and hope it gets done right .I got Modern Driveline to help me out doing the R&D . I sourced a WC tailshaft from a Commodore out of Australia . Shifter location is exactly the same . Modern Driveline machined the input shaft for proper length and pilot bearing size . I run a Ford clutch and I run an internal slave unit .
Modern Driveline installed the tailshaft on their new trans and made sure it worked good . That put a new detent plate in for the shifter and since I bought the trans new they honored their 2 year warranty !Trans is very quiet and so far all is good . It’s rated at 330 ft pounds on a 3300 pound car , so it’s plenty strong enough . Best part is the trans bolts in just like the Nissan one . Yes you also need to modify the DS
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Been driving her around with the new shiny bits and everything seems to be working well.
No dyno runs coming up. I plan on swapping out my Bonk 2 cam to got back to Bonk 1 . Not sure I want or like this huge cam . Power band is really high which is okay - but I want some more low end . I think the longer runners with this intake has made things better than the previous intake , but power band is still way above 4K . I built a motor that can handle these rpm’s , but I’m wanting a little more civility for the road . Then there’s the stink of all that duration .
So if anyone is looking for a race cam I will be selling this Bonk 2 .
Now that I’ve gotten rid of the noisy G Force trans I can hear myself think driving around . Now I can hear noises that maybe were there before and I just could hear them . I think my Kameari tensioner is making the noise I hear now . Not sure how I can verify that though .
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6 hours ago, Zetsaz said:
Are you sure you didn't have a Jeep stepper? Looks almost identical but the pattern isn't the same. I had both on hand and realized the bolts don't line up on a Jeep stepper despite being a nearly identical part.
I think you are right !!
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I have 2 housings in great shape . No pitting and all the threads are in good shape.
100$ each - includes shipping in the US
sfinnerty1018@gmail.com
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1 hour ago, Zetsaz said:
I think he might have short injectors on there. The protunerz page specifically says not to use those. He's testing the clearance with the injectors instead of the supplied brackets which would have clued him in to why it's too close to the thermostat.
Not to knock on the guy, I'm sure he got it figured out, but definitely seems like typical videos people post hoping to get some internet clout instead of spending their time actually working things out.
A lot of folks on youtube and other social media tend to post these long videos before even asking the supplier about their issue, instead of posting the result then mentioning the problems they ran into and how they were solved.
Plus he had the intake hanging loose . It’s a very close fit to the thermostat where a millimeter makes a difference
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8 hours ago, calZ said:
What were the issues you ran into with your intake?
Runners are too short for the rpm range I want to make power at . Probably not as big a deal for a turbo - but for my NA it is
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13 hours ago, Zetsaz said:
What was painful to watch about the videos? I feel like this intake is not that much different from installing a different oem one. Only thing you have to change is where some vacuum is going to.
Well, I guess other than the cable throttle needing to be installed.Well like this video saying “issues with new manifold “ . I don’t see issues for a manifold that is NOT advertised as an exact OEM replacement .
There are some other videos .
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I realized I wasn’t keeping up with my threads . When I worked in the RR I would get stuck in hotels and had lots of time to post and desk wrench . Then I retired and went bonkers working on Z’s to support my habit . 3 years later and my back is broken and I just keep busy on my stuff .FB was okay but I do miss these forums . I especially miss the great talent here , but I am always referring people to this site for real info and not a social media opinion .
Funny thing is I bought a 720 and started posting on Ratsun because that was about the only site for these trucks . Today I looked and my thread has 40k views - who would have thought . The guys there have been very helpful and I try and ignore the threads that are political in nature .
This site has been the most helpful for me with my z .-
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Well it’s a new year so time for a new intake - lol. I have issues with my intake so instead of fixing them right now I decided to take the easy route and buy a Protunerz intake set up.
Pretty nice piece. Not many options for aftermarket intakes for our motors and glad to see they put this one together . Only found one issue with a misaligned hole that holds the IAC in place . I just altered the mounting hole on the IAC .
Of course nothing is just bolt on . I have to change some fuel line placement and vacuum lines and also the CAI piping . Pretty easy stuff since I was running a similar intake .
I watched a couple of you tube videos that different guys made of their install - it was painful to watch . They shouldn’t be making any How To videos and they didn’t make PROTUNERZ’s look good .
I like what they did with the throttle body . There’s a port for the IAT and IAC .
The plenum has a PCV port on the underside! As well as the 4 vacuum ports up top .
I think the price is good for all 3 pieces - plenum, fuel rail , TB and all the hardware and fittings -
6 hours ago, rxx2rxx2 said:
Ah, sorry, digging up another old thread.
Anyone have any opinions of these vs Futofab? A bit of a difference is price.
Completely different . Futofabs work but more play
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No longer available
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As far as all the comments about air distribution - you would be entertained watching my two widebands - that separate 1-3 cyl and 4-6 cyl .
I think any log style where the air comes in from one end will have some distribution issues under high vacuum situations . The important thing is that under load the air distribution is even .
Thinking about modifying my diesel intake next . Be cool to have air enter the center of the plenum and see what affects that has on air distribution.
2018 Subaru STI LSD 3.54
in Parts for Sale
Posted
Yes - they are tough . This is also the Torsen version .