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Everything posted by madkaw

  1. Had some fun with my Speedhut GPS speedo . It will 1/4 mile times . Tried it for the first time a pulled a 13.08 . Using that time and my approx weight it calculates out my HP to a very close match of my dyno run . Proving that the speedo can help me verify improvements . Now to work on those improvements ‘
  2. Isn’t that a ceramic coated header? They do a great job to control heat . I don’t run a heat shield with my N42 .
  3. So many questions 😁 Easy install with no issues . I’ve had long enough to know they will take a thrashing with 230hp . R-180 . Don’t have brake cables , but they are no bigger then halfshafts .
  4. They are works of art . Very stout . I can’t see how you would break them . I run a modest 230 rwhp , but I thrash my car a lot . They aren’t the weak link . It would be more likely my wheel axles
  5. Why not ? Wouldn’t at least be a base line ? I know its a bit of a PITA to coordinate and cost $ , but inquiring minds want to know
  6. So what was the outcome here . I noticed my 3.90 CLSD ( Subaru’s ) has significant play at the axles . I’m talking up and down movement of the axle at the diff . I know the STI’s don’t mount their diffs the same as ours . They are rubber mounted I believe.
  7. madkaw

    Remote Tuning

    @Chicken man
  8. I SPY ! My neighbor wonders why I’m always working on mine .
  9. That sucks you had to clearance stuff . Those are second generation CV ‘s from Futofab ? I had first generation axles that had 5 degrees of slop Glad I spent the money and went with ZCG axles
  10. Yeah - I was referring to the idler
  11. I think you underestimating the BLING factor. It comes in different colors Most of us won't drive our cars enough to test the limits of everyday driving on this tensioner . It was worth to me just to make dialing in the cam easy and or turning over the motor . Really came in handy with a P90 shaved .080
  12. I think the cool factor outweighs any reasonable longevity argument -LOL. It sure does make the process of getting our cam dialed in much easier . You can literally go either direction with the chain instead of just one direction. Time will tell about adverse wear issues . Love the instructions that came with the tensioner - "please ignore bearing noise-this is normal" My exhaust is pretty loud so Imagine if the exhaust was quieter , the tensioner would be more obnoxious . As stated before -don't over tighten. Just use your fingers to press the gears together.
  13. More visceral -ness 244D1B3D-3B46-4164-A673-F38A21FAEDB5.MOV
  14. A bit - but the urethane mount can be shaped as you need . I have it as part of my diff sandwich by using the stock mount below and GM above
  15. Wait until you hear that chain tensioner :-0
  16. If you had a GM mount hanging the diff you could shim it - down
  17. Wow - just found this thread . I thought I wasn’t the only one . Same exact issues of SS set from Classic Tube not sealing. I found out about these flares thru another web site . So far they have worked for me . Like you said - tricky to keep in place. I was worried about them moving and actually blocking the passage . Those lines will destroy anything they don’t mate up too. Owner bought the lines for me to install on a resto. I wouldn’t have gone SS , but that’s what I got to work with . Never again
  18. Your FIRST car project ? Really? Nothing like going for the gold first time out. Be careful with that ticking time bomb! Hope you have the timing locked down and a wideband to check AFR's . I almost went down that road but decided it was too scary and I wasn't knowledgeable enough about turbos to do it. I decided to go with efi programmable . I did the triple Mikunis and it was a blast, but got tired of changing jets .
  19. You need to chill out on your timing . It’s hard to see the pic , but you have a ton of timing at 100kpa. I run NA - so can’t help you above 100. You are bringing on way too much timing too early . I wouldn’t be above 33 degrees at 100kpa anywhere on the scale for now . I don’t bring in full timing(36) until around 3000-3500 rpm . ESPECIALLY with a turbo build I would get more conservative . As said above - verify timing with a light . Verify timing marks on pulley . Your VE tables look wonky too. You are pulling fuel way early - before you make full torque . Id suggest finding a t
  20. Did you ever find any ?
  21. I have the same numbers on my 3.2 NA!
  22. They are available in many places
  23. I would buy any reputable wideband . Spartan makes good ones cheap .
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