madkaw

I wouldn’t probably be this nice . It’s bad enough you pay ahead of time and now no refund - BS

That’s another pet peeve with these vendors . They don’t k is their stock . I’ve been told things have gone back order and the stuff shows up 2 days later . Not sure how they can be that disorganized

I try to cut them slack where I can , but some of the stuff they do - like other small businesses is bad. I am on day two of getting a refund or return “ approved “ I sent an email and pic as requested . It was a very recent purchase . It’s obvious the part made was of poor workmanship . Even though I spoke with the vendor , it has to go to the owner for approval . Meanwhile I’m in limbo whether I get my money back or buy another product or buy from another vendor . It’s not rocket science , it’s just a bad part . It doesn’t need to go to congress to make this BIG decision . When a custome

I think they are all bad , but I’m just a grumpy parts buyer I guess. I think it’s BS that Z Car Depot doesn’t take calls . Business has never been better so let’s offer less service . I’ve been dealing with Ryan from the beginning . It was better when they answered the phone . I don’t get the mentality to save a buck by giving cutting customer service which in turn looses business . All the vendors are riding the wave right now with Z values going up . MSA sent my stuff to my old address that I haven’t lived in for 10 years . That’s after thousands of dollars of business at my new ad

I would lock your timing down or get a programmable EFI that controls timing .

I wish we would get more of the “old timers “ back . The trend of social media has killed the wealth of knowledge we used to have around here . You can’t really research anything on social media either . Not saying that’s where you were , but hoping for a slight revival of the forums .

I went to cable linkage and no regrets . Glad someone gets something from all I’ve posted over the years

Follow the instructions for current type tach . It’s been too long so I can’t remember which ones it was .

Doing a upgrade on a 72 . I would recommend what was said earlier , run a relay . I would get a T for your oil pressure sender and add a pressure switch and use it as the ground for the relay . I would pull power from the battery directly for the relay . I would run the pump 12v from the relay and tie into the green wire under the glove box . I don’t know whether I would use the ground back at the tank or just ground the pump at the chassis at the pump - probably the latter . I would order a fuel pump meant for an older carb engine like a Mazda rx7 . Summit carries a Carter that puts out 2.

G- Force is rated at 650lbs I believe . and it’s more like 3500 $

From my research you have a zone you need to stay in or stay out of . Maybe this engine is based on the latter . I was surprised to see it myself . Running a 38cc head to get 10.75:1 . It runs good and haven’t blown it up yet!

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I’ll keep you in mind if this trans is junk

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Thought I would add my photos of the MN-47 sliced up for future reference . It will show up on a Google search for someone

That’s an impressive build . Nice and tight squish for forged pistons . My Rebello stroker kit the pistons didn’t reach the top - lol

Did a little clean up in the engine bay today . Moved that damn stepper IAC to lose some off the rubber hoses I had everywhere . Finally got a good oil/air separator for the crankcase . Have my second wide band set up now . One for each bank of cylinders

Mounted two widebands so I can see what each bank of cylinders are doing .

Probably not . Unless the T-5 was upgraded with bigger input and output ( basically a WC) , it won’t hold up. You can sell it for good money . Folks are looking for those bell housings or send it off to G-Force for a $$ Upgrade

I have the shaft also . Wouldn’t talk you into any direction - but it is an option vs stock ignition

I have a Kameari Distributor set up if interested . Still a distributor , but made for racing , so good for 10k rpms all day . Microsquirt is another option . You could drill your flywheel for your hall sensor . I’ve been running that set up for years

Jumping on this thread . Ready to buy some springs and the price difference between the ISKY and Schneider is significant . Not a lot of info out there and too many variables . I will using them on a Nissan core re-grind. I’ve been running ISKY with no issues on my 530 lift cam. Not enough miles for a long term review . Only thing I’ve read negative about Schneider is with cams that weren’t Nissan cores . Can’t find the pressures on the Schneider springs and it seems that the ISKY springs you utilize the stock inner spring?

It would be well worth it to drop your head on a L28 block . The bottom end is more stout in the Z engines . But your head makes for a sweet hot rod . It will be a considerable bump in CR . I would put the bigger 44 intake valves in the Maxima head and a 54 L block and hold on!!

Hey northerner , I went from KYB’s to Koni’s . I went with Koni’s with my ST springs hoping I could soften the ride for around town and be able to adjust up for auto cross . The Koni’s seem to be as stiff as the KYBS - at their lowest setting. Now - that being said - it could be my ST springs . Also, your car is probably heavier and with progressive springs you might be able to have a greater adjustability in ride .

No chart . I asked him to see how his sniffer matched with AFR gauge , and he said it was close . I have the mega log . I was running around 13.1 I think .