madkaw

Worked good when I pulled it . Upgraded to WC so I don’t need this one anymore . Comes with shifter . No other driveline parts . Asking 500$. It’s at 47401. I can ship , but hope I don’t need to. email : sfinnerty1018@gmail.com

In the grand scheme of things - 70$ additional to 1000$ worth of gauges seems okay to me . Let us know Chris !!

This kit I bought 15 years ago was considered a street kit. http://www.arizonazcar.com/brake.html

One reason I bought new injectors when going EFI . Another reason I went high impedance and MS3X because it was basically plug and play . I didn’t want to chase issues over rebuilt parts . Bought OEM Bosch new that fit my HP needs . I was new to EFI - let alone programmable EFI - so I wanted as few hiccups as possible . Did you reach out to Chickenman to look at your tune ?

I hate to even say because my memory is so bad . I followed the instructions and recommendations that came with the kit . I do a a proportioning valves between front a rear brakes - set up where my old parking brake was. I remember that I had to put most of the bias to the front . I run wildwoods all around . It’s not the big kit , just two puck 11” I think

I wish I could remember what my setting are , but I got them to lock up correctly and haven’t touched it in years . I run Wildwoods all around . I do remember that it was wayyyy biased up front .

I haven’t got this far to try and dial it in but the single button menu is enough to drive me nuts . This sucks about the fuel gauge . Hell- the stock gauge is bad enough , but to know my new gauge might be worse really sucks .

Well a lot has transpired since I last posted . I had issues with the 2.8 and moved on to my 3.2 build . Thankfully with just a fuel requirement adjustment based on just a percentage increase of CC of the motor the engine fired off in the first couple of revolutions . I am 200 miles into the fresh motor and couldn’t be much happier . I finally implemented full sequential using my Jeep sensor . Only issue is a slightly richer burn on #6 cylinder. After checking everything I have to think it’s a air flow issue with my N42 intake . I am going to make a trim adjustment to the injector , though I have no clue what I’m doing . MS is not very clear on how to . It’s not enough to sweat over and going from batch fire to sequential seemed to help the issue . I have been communicating with DIY and they aren’t convinced that it’s an airflow issue . Need to get to the dyno to see where I’m at on WHP - but it’s over 200 for sure .

Well guys , my best answer is that I found some scoring on the valve stem on #6 intake valve around the seal area of the stem . I moved on to my 3.2 build and P90 head since that head was ready . Funny thing is that #6 still had a different burn with the new engine , but not oil fouled - what kind of luck is that . Once I went full sequential on my EFI - it seemed to help . I think now it’s an intake design flaw . It’s something I could tune out with injector trim possibly , but I’m going to run it . The N42 intake will go away shortly with something else .

After starting this idea - I finally got mine working . Late to the game - but hey - it does work !

Not sure what your actual experience is with these motors are , but the L28 is capable of high revving to the limit of cast pistons . For your goals you might need to step out the box of strictly getting what you want thru HP and revs. Drivetrain changes like a better gears and a slicker trans can make huge improvements . Any engine swaps will cause a lot more work, time and frustration . Bump your compression a bit and run a bigger cam and find a way to manage it with programmable EFI or triples or even SU’s

I wouldn’t fret over a CC - my MN47 head measures big also compared to spec

Those numbers seem high . Stock chamber should be around 42cc . Unshrouding the chamber is important and should be done . It’s easy and fast . I used a drum sander with a valve installed on the seat to protect things . I like the drum sander because it cuts at a low speed and has a radius to it - the bigger the better . A cordless drill will cut it fine . That extra area around the valve pocket helps flow as the valve first comes off the seat .

Lots of anxiety on that initial start up ! I was worried when I fired off my 3.2 , but it ran great - I call that luck -lol

I had no idea it would take that long , but I know you are using a homemade version .