madkaw

So I took the Z to the Dream Cruise this weekend . First time I’ve done a long road trip in the Z and the only one with the 3.2 . Roughly 300 miles for me from Indiana . The Z did great and quite comfortable . What was crazy was I got 35 mpg at 75-80 mph cruising speed . I have a 3.9 diff and my OD is a .63 so I cruise at 2700-2800 rpm’s . I run the engine at about 15+ AFR’s . I wonder if my intake plenum helps my aero ? Referencing the wind tunnel info maybe my plenum builds that air wall in front of my car and makes the car more aerodynamic . It feels more competent on the road too

Pure art ! duals ?

I drove my car to Woodward Dream Cruise this weekend . First time I’ve driven strictly highway miles and was blown away with my MPG . I shoot for an AFR of 15.5 at light cruise . I now have a Tremec T5 with a .63 OD so at 75-80 mph I am turning 2600-2800. Also have a 3.9 diff . I’ve been averaging 20 ish around town but I managed 35 mpg highway !!!!! Thats with a 3.2 with a 535 lift cam . I verified this twice . I actually thought my fuel gauge was malfunctioning but the math at the pump equaled 35 . Love the L !

The casings are exactly the same for the Nissan and Subbie units . The stub axles would look a little different than the stock ones . The Nissan units the stub axle will have a bolt holding it in place where the Subbie units just snap in . Ratio can be figured by just marking and rotating the assemble and counting the ratio difference

Sounds like things might not be properly grounded ?

What do you mean everything works normal when you disconnect the ecu ignition wire . You are probably going to have to provide more info for help . Richard Boyk does remote tuning . Not sure how much he’s on this site anymore - but he is on FB on the Church of L page

Well I have this fancy Moroso oil catch can between the crank case and the PCV . I haven’t seen much in it honestly - so maybe a good thing . THOUGH- I have taken off my intake to find oil residue sitting in the runners near the head - so not sure what that’s about. Just under the air intake tube attached to the inner fender

The issue with the MAP sensor was that it was integrated into the ECU and the ECU was mounted in the cabin low on the tunnel . This effectively was down hill from the engine and any condensation rolled down into the MAP sensor . My MAP sensor is now separate and mounted on the firewall above the motor . Really haven’t had any “heat soak” issues . The Protunerz intake is angled up and clears the header runners well . All other intakes I’ve used I have used heat shield tape on the lower half of the runners and plenum .

Since you will have made the effort of a fuel rail and use high impedance injectors why not go to a pick n pull salvage yard and buy some cheap used Bosch that are a bit smaller . Can’t tell you if 440cc will work or not . I run them in my 3.2 NA but I have 230 rwhp . I think before these I was running 36lb VW injectors . I moved the 36 lbs ones to my 720 truck that probably has 115 hp at the rear wheels - no issues

So I’ve been having issues with my dual widebands not reading the same most of the time . My 1-3 cylinders were erratic and I could tell by the way it was running that it was more than just an erratic reading . I eliminated all exhaust and air leaks - which I did have a vacuum leak on #1 runner because the Protunerz flange is warped . I did have some pin hole leaks around my collector - got that fixed . Swapped 1-3 injectors with 4-6 . Problem didn’t follow . Then I changed the O2 sensor - still no luck . Finally swapped in a new wideband controller and issue was resolved . This did NOT fix the fact that 1-3 wideband shows lean conditions under high vacuum MAP . Unless I trim out(fatten) the injectors in 1-3 the MS doesn’t seem able to reign in this condition . Under load the cylinders all sync up , but from 65 KPA ( big cam) on down I have to add fuel . Then the MS seems to keep up . I give the ego control 20% authority but it seems to do better with injector trim added. I have run 3 different “log” intakes and they all act the same under high vacuum . So few have my set up that there’s no one to compare with .

I have switched to a GM valve . It seems to be doing well . I have to keep the valve powered on all the time but it is predictable that way .

Still available and ready to ship

You fiddled with it ? You are supposed to calibrate the voltage to as close to 2.5v’s as possible . There is a procedure that you can find on about any MS manual . I had issues with the fact that in cold weather the engine cranked to low and the signal got lost for starts. Only time I’ve had a sync loss while driving is when my hall sensor was falling off . I have ms2 on my truck and MS3X on my Z . I run batch fire on multiple coils so my set up isn’t like yours

Yes- you want to verify the 2.5v’s across the 2 pots . I had issues with my MS2 and picking up the signal from my sensor . I ended up installing an external pull up and that solved my issue

What type CAS ? Have you checked voltage across the pots in the ECU ? Do you need a pull up resistor ?