StrutlessWonder

I've heard that early Maxima vs 280zx vs Infiniti M30 rear control arms have slightly different shock mount heights, but haven't been able to confirm. My Maxima vs 280zx shock mounts appear to be the same height, just a slightly different angle. This is all going under my 510 w/ R180 cLSD and WCR CV axles. I may be changing to M30 rear control arms, spherical bearing bushings and z31 5lug hubs w/ 280zx 4 bolt flanges. We'll see, as it might take some mixing/matching to get things just right. Thanks for the input. Best, -k

Thanks wagon jon. I did ask them. They thought they were 1980 280zx arms. But now I know they are 1980 1st gen Maxima arms. Thanks for the suggestion. Best, -k

djz gets the prize. I think my control arms are actually 1980 1st Gen Maxima rear control arms, which use the same rear brake caliper & rotor as early 280ZX. The bolt-on disc brake adapter (part #44155-N3202) was nicely pictured in a different Hybridz post: The big question now is test fitting the 280ZX vs my Maxima setup vs M30 rear control arms to see how interchangeable they actually are. Then I get to see which is the best set to rebuild. -k

Well, the control arm stampings looks exactly like the 280zx arms. And the cast thick flange w/ the 4 bolt holes that the disc brake mount bracket bolts to looks factory. The brackets look factory too. But it IS possible the prev owner/fab guy "made these up" just for this car. Maybe it's a hodge-podge of 280zx/Maxima/??? parts? Who knows! I was told they were 280zx arms, so that's what I thought they were. I'm off work tomorrow and I'll be hitting the yards. Rumor has it I should be looking at Infiniti M30 rear control arms too. Anyone else ever seen these? Anyone? Bueller? Best, -k

I've been running early 280zx rear control arms and brakes under the back of my VG30et-powered Datsun 510 using a modified Datsun 510 rear crossmember. Since I'm doing a rear suspension upgrade after breaking my rear crossmember, I thought I'd pick up another set of early 280zx rear control arms to rebuild, add spherical bearings, and rear wilwoods to go along with my Subie STi R180 3.54 cLSD, Beta Motorsport 27T stub axles, WCR CV axle kit, billet alum diff moustache bar, etc. Surprise! The second set of early 280zx control arms are different from my current set: The 4 bolt halfshaft flange isn't as deeply recessed, and the disc brake mounting bracket flange is welded to the control arm. My existing setup (1980 280zx?) has a deeply recessed 4 bolt halfshaft flange so you can barely see the stub axle bolt, and the disc brake mounting flange BOLTS to a second flange w/ 4 bolts. This 2nd flange is welded directly to the control arm. Pictures of the two versions are here: http://datsun510.com...ry.php?cat=3735 I'd like your help with the ID so I can try to get another set of early control arms that match the set I already have. Who knew there were 2 different versions of early 280zx rear control arms? Obviously, not me! The Nissan Fiche does actually list 3 sets of part numbers for each side of 280zx rear control arms. Maybe 2 early and 1 late? I just need to know exactly what mo/yr 280zx has control arms like the ones I already have. Thanks in advance for your help! Best, -Kurt

Link to pictures of installed hex-head bolts. Note hex head must be properly clocked to clear raised lip on stub: 39628-E4100 D/S Bolt and 39628-E4100 D/S Bolt (side view) Hope this helps. Best, -Kurt Wondering why my post count is still 0 and how many posts I need before I can post pictures directly.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but STi R180s are either clutch-pack LSDs or Torsens. I didn't think they came in a VLSD version. Non-STis did come w/ VLSDs, mostly R-160s. Hitachi VLSDs use a longer stub on one side (to engage the VLSD unit) and a shorter, "normal" stub on the other side, IIRC. I wasn't aware of any VLSDs that came in 27T spline, but hey..I learn something new every day! I also learned that STi diff dust shields (baffle) don't fit John's stubs. The ID of the shield is MUCH bigger--DUH--which I would have seen if I'd just looked at my STi axles more carefully. Best, -Kurt

My Nissan parts guy said these are on backorder, but that Nissan was going to have it's vendor make more in next 30-90 days. I just picked up the Datsun 510 equivalents today (yes, they ARE in stock, and cost $1.50 each more than the above bolts). These bolts have a hex head, just like the orig ones on my 510 halfshafts. The set of 16 bolts/nuts/washers plus CA sales tax were $75 with my "nice guy" discount. Might be an alternative if you can't wait for the 38228-21000 to come back in. 39628-E4100 d/s bolt 39627-N3000 nut 08915-2401A lock washer

UPDATE: I chatted w/ my Nissan parts guy today. These ARE the correct PN for 240z halfshaft bolts. They are $1.50 ea less expensive than the PN 39628-E4100 bolt for the Datsun 510 halfshaft. Nobody knows why. I still don't know the difference, as the 510 and 240z use the same halfshafts. I ordered some of each, but the 240z ones are on backorder, w/o any estimate of when they'll be back in stock. Dtsnlvrs got lucky!

That's great news Russell! Could you upload a picture of one? Did you order nuts & washers as well? If so, which PNs? I'll make a note of that PN and add it to my earlier posting. The item is listed on the following link under part #82, but strangely enough, doesn't match the fiche diagram (The halfshaft bolt is the fiche diagram here is not labeled): http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun510/Datsun510Index/PowerTrain/GearCarrier/Sedan/tabid/778/Default.aspx My Nissan parts guy still swears by PN 39628-E4100, but this bolt is $1.50 more EACH than your PN. Same description too. Why pay $24 more for 16 bolts if I don't have to? I'll try & order some of each and post pictures as well. Maybe the difference is the smooth "D" head vs hex head on the bolt? My Nissan parts guy also says the nut & washer PNs are the ones I posted earlier. Nice work! Thanks!

Hmmm. That part # isn't a valid #. Maybe there's a typo? In addition to the part #'s I typed above, here's a listing of PNs for 510 halfshaft bolts/nuts/washers: (from http://carfiche.com/fiche009/510/3/k13.gif, part #s 27/28/29, Fiche 3/6, K13,section 63-2): Bolt 39628-2100 or 39628-E4100 Nut 08911-2410 or 39627-N3000 supercedes to 39627-E4100 Washer 08915-1410

Has anyone looked into using a set of metal STi diff axle seals on John's stubs to help keep the grit out? Subaru calls the part a "baffle", Subaru PN 23233GA091 around $6 each. I'm planning to try them. Subaru Part #s that might be helpful to folks using the STi R180s: Genuine Subaru STi LSD oil PN K0305Y0900 ($18-25 a liter!) Perrin finned cover #PSP-SUS-510 will incr capacity to 1.3qts. Others use Motul 90PA or Motul 300 if a Torsen unit. R180 rear cover gasket PN 38353AA050 (about $10) R180 STi stub snap ring PN 805326000 (lives inside diff) (about $2.50 ea) R180 rear cover plastic breather vent PN 38354AA002 (about $4) R180 STi diff rubber side seal PN 806732030 or 806732200 (about $6 ea) You can also tap the rear cover vent hole 1/4NPT for a -6 AN fitting if you want to run a hose to a vent or a catch can. Torque values for the STi R180s: Driveshaft Pinion flange nut torque spec is 134 lb-ft. This preserves pinion bearing pre-load. Diff side plate bolt torque spec is 7.6 lb-ft. Rear cover bolt torque spec is 32 lb-ft (22 lb-ft for Non-STi and Perrin recs this tq # with their finned covers). Fill/drain plug torque spec is 36 lb-ft (Use the $30 13mm KTC Socket to avoid rounding out these plugs: http://ultimatetoolco.com/drainplugs.aspx). Rear diff mounting bolts torque spec is 52 lb-ft. (Ditch the studs & replace w/ 12x1.75 gr 10.9 bolts to make R&R easier) A 26-page pdf of the Subaru Manual for WRX R160 & STi R180 diffs can be found here: http://ken-gilbert.com/wrx/STi_Manual/05.%20CHASSIS/04.%20DIFFERENTIALS/04.%20Rear%20Differential.pdf Although possibly NLA at times, these part #s might be useful: Nissan halfshaft bolts PN 39628-E4100 Nissan halfshaft nuts PN 39627-N3000 Nissan halfshaft washers PN 08915-2401A Nissan halfshaft bolts PN 38228-21000 (Thanks Dtsnlvrs!) (Torque to 58 lb-ft) The Sti R180 install under my VG30ET-powered 510 will be much like Dtsnlvrs, as I'm also using the WCR CV axles. I hadn't intended to safety wire the bolts, but maybe now I will. I have a brand new 2004 3.90 CLSD, but am still looking for a 2006 3.54 CLSD as well. If anyone has a line on one of the 2006 3.54 CLSD units, please let me know, as it might improve hookup for my 335 rwlb-ft. Torsens are cool, don't need to be re-shimmed, and are very smooth on the street, but are Torque-Sensing, so require torque feedback from the wheel/tire to work. I don't like how they act like an open diff when one wheel is in the air (or on ice), requiring you to left foot brake to get it to lock up again. Hope the above info helps out someone in a time of need.