jonzzer

Im 6'2" and 185 and i fit just fine in my 280z but the dam pop up sunroofs seals right in my headroom. Thank god for reclining seats. I just would wanna be in a rollover accident talk about sardine tin lol. But i love my Z sold the 240z and got a 280z . only bad thing is leaning forward to look at streetlights...

Alright I just replaced the cylinder head temp sensor with a temp sensor from Baxters, not 100% sure if it was the right one but it fit. My car still spouts out a black cloud when i rev it to 4k. What else should i check,the timing seems right.

is the sensor the same for both turbo and non turbo 280zx? I found one on ebay but i don't know if it'll fit

i tried to test it but i wasnt getting any Ohms from the 15 pin connector at the ecu like the fsm says. That was with neg battery connected and unconnected. I replaced O2 sensor, the ECU green light wasn't blinking with the new one... ill try again tomorrow its just to cold up here

i need a new Cylinder head temperature sensor for my 82 280zx turbo. If you have one cheaper than MSA ill buy it.

Hope you guys had a good new years, well my 82 280zx turbo that i swapped into my 77 280z is running rich. On her maiden voyage back from the emission center she bogged out and wouldn't rev, was backfiring on deceleration like none other. Ive tested the fuel pressure and it seems a constant 30ish psi, even under throttle. I was checking the timing and it seemed like its missing cause the light would jump speeds and not stay constant. but i think its timed right at 20 btdc(a red mark not the little stock arrow). I guess my question is what could be causing it to be so rich??? should i replace the rotor and cap? Oh yeah and Ive removed the AAC(thing with 4 hoses,2plugs). And rerouted the IAC to a intake manifold vacuum line. It idles at 1000rpm and i don;t know how to lower it... Does anyone have a picture of how the Coil and the little transistor with the blue and black wires hook up? Any Ideas would be great

guess ill be buying an O2 sensor. know of any drawbacks to taking off the vcm, things like rough idle, hard cold starting? ill keep the VCV for now, i dont have a blow off yet and im still trying to dial in the boost settings( just swapped stock controller for nxs one). when i take off the oil cap the engine revs maybe 100rpms down for a second then jumps back up so i must have a a good sized vacuum leak. but would that account for the fouled plugs? Wouldn't that extra air lean out the mixture?? The boost gauge is showing 19-20 mmHg at idle...no idea what that means,but i know it should be around 15-17. oh and pinching the AAC dint effect it to greatly maybe a 100 rpm drop, but pinching the line to the from the intake to the vcm dropped it significantly.probably the computer readjusting the idle... Thank you Duowing for the insight, Did you see a big difference in running the Z31 with Nistune? im temped to try megasquirt but the Z31 is a lot cheaper.

Okay so my problem is most likely a few things that are all having an effect. I swapped a 82zxt into my 77 280z. It has an idle of 1300-1500 cold and warmed up. It also is fouling plugs after only 10 miles, they're all black not wet with gas. tested the primary resistance in the coil and got 1.1ohms which is out of FSM specs, secondary was fine. Ive pinched the AAR and it didn't effect the idle any(quick blue tech tip). i applied vacuum to the AAC and i can see the flap moving so its good. I did remove the EGR since the msa downpipe doesn't have a hole, i made a block off plate. I want to remove the VCM since I've unplugged both plugs to it and no change. I thought a vacuum leak but i don't hear any hissing. Im at my wits end on this thing. i haven't tested the FPR yet but plan on it.did screwdriver test on injectors and heard them all clicking, also thought it was the 02 but no way to test it, the green led comes on in the "on" position when cranking then no light when running.?? heard it means bad 02? Ive looked all over the FSM but most of the test you need a special Analyzer to perform the tests. Sorry for the length, just really need some input Thanks Jon

Quick up date fixed boost problems . Now car sputters has no power backfires. I think it's an injector not firing or a clogged injector. First time driving it more then up and down the street. I guess that's what happens when you use old crappy gas.

Alright got sometime to take some pics. I hooked the boost gague line up to one off the intake that feeds the vcm. It would idle around 18-20 vac. When i tested it out it would read 5-9ish psi when i would stomp on the gas, and when i wuld shift it would spike at 10+psi, which i know is not good for a stock motor(which ths is). Also when i let off the gas on that run it started to sputter/almost die so i feathered the gas and got it home, any ideas what it could've been? i haven't adjusted th boost controller at all so im thinking i hooked it up wrong but thats why im posting pics. I gotta ask someone that knows, is my wastegate acutator arm too rusted? cause it doesn't really move when i try to by hand.

Thanks for the advice, I don't plan to change the any higher Then 8-9 psi until I get an intercooler and a bov. the idle after installing the boost gauge to a line that goes into the vcm, it went down. Its off topic but will the car run "normal" if I removed it or would it throw off the ecu, and give it a high/ rough idle? You guys have giving me more advice than I expected and I appreciate it. Its shown me I gotta read maximum boost to really know what's going on

Yes I understand that the boost goes into the intake, its just which ever hose I tap into reads 17-20 hg and when I rev it it doesn't move much. Could it be I'm not revving it enough, or that the NSX manual boost controller is turned to low (the way level they shipped it) which is not allowing boost? I swear this is the last dumb question

Yes I understand that the boost goes into the intake, its just which ever hose I tap into reads 17-20 hg and when I rev it it doesn't move much. Could it be I'm not revving it enough, or that the NSX manual boost controller is turned to low (the way level they shipped it) which is not allowing boost? I swear this is the last dumb question

If I used a line off the intake wouldn't that only give me the vacuum not boost, I need to know how much boost it is making so I can adjst it. I guess I'll just tap into the line that goes to the intake from the turbo, after the Y

It's a boost vacuum gauge. I hooked it into the stock boost sensor line, but all it read was 17hg of vacuum and when I throttled it it didn't go into the boost

Okay I know it's an easy question for some, but I'm new to the world of turbos. My question is , i'm trying to hook up my autometer boost gauge but don't know what hose to tap into, the only one I can think of is before the wastegate. Also my idle is really high 1500 rpm range, is there a idle adjustment or is is it controlled anyother way. Sorry for the newbie question but it's the only things left on my turbo swap

Ok so i dont wanna pay more to ship the part then its worth but does anyone know the size of the retainer nut that holds the water temp sender in place? its msa part number (16-7110) Thanks a ton if you know it,

What version of megasquirt would you recommend for a turbo build that will eventually see 10+ pounds of boost? Im assuming the kit is just the computer, ill have to buy all the necessary wires/ WbO2 sensor, did i miss anything? Also there are so many extra add-ons to the kits, but which ones are worth buying or needed?

I mean mods that if i do decide to swap turbos will still work . Megasquirt is a good bang for the buck but after doing the swap i think im a wired out lol. Is an Intercooler and a blow off worth buying or can i manage without a blow off on stock turbo?

Okay so i have a stock 82 l28et in my 77 280z and I am wondering what i should buy to make it last the longest and what mods are going to carry over if i do swap stuff. I have about 300-400 to throw at it. I still need an exhaust run but i can get that for about 100. Is the MSA downpipe worth buying? i have the egr on the intake so i'm assuming id need to be plugged. I just need some help in deciding what i should buy first. It's going to be a dd so im looking for reliability and performance mods.

Thanks guys, swapping the 4spd back in was my plan after getting the estimate i just needed some advice on it. The quote i got sounds like that's what its gonna cost me to do it no matter what, so ill be saving up. Well then im in the market for a turbo diff or just the flange lol if anyone has one for a decent price or near Portland, OR pm me.

Ill checkout driveline services but the quote i got was from Oregon Drive axle

Ok so im doing the l28et swap on my 77 280z and Ive come to a cross road. im trying to get the t5 tranny mated to the stock R180-200 diff that's in it.The machinist said it'd be 430 to get the drive-line custom made, which is crazy expensive for a college kid. Or i could just swap the old 4 spd back in and use the stock drive-line. I also could get the turbo diff and swap it in but that'd be 100 for it, 220 for the cv adapters, but then id still be 200 to get it cut and rebalanced. I'm i being gouged or is this a realistic price? also what have other people done in the past? I might just cheap out and swap trannys so i can drive it finally. Any input would be greatly appreciated

Well im doing the l28et motor swap with the T5 and i ran into a problem. I have both the zxt driveshaft and the stock 77 280z driveshafts, im going to use the 280z stock R200 dive and not worry about the turbo one. My problem is how can i get the T5 input on the turbo welded onto the stock drive shaft, since the diff flange are different. Or would it be more worth my time and money in the long run to just get a custom one made? Thanks

Alright well my 77 280z wont start. ive gotten it to idle for 5 secs, only if it has sat for a day or so. My fuel pump wasn't cycling so i swapped efi relays which both tested good. but still no cycling so then i just bypassed the relay. Im thinking it is the computer which has pins 19thru 26 missing,anda pin goes to the efi relay.Could it be the computer is the wrong year ? the # is A11-600-000-000. Is that right for an early 77? Also im not getting any power to the injectors, they had like .70 volts while cranking(digital voltmeter). Im thinking it is wiring from the battery to the ecu. Is there a inline fusible link on the negative battery terminal for the efi? Any ideas on what it could be would be great.