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awoz87

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Posts posted by awoz87

  1. Ok, so I finally have my s30 running and upon taking it around the block I found that the brakes a VERY touchy. I press in the pedal and there is some loose travel then once it gets about 1/2 way it feels like I really slammed on the brakes. I never drove the car before so I'm not sure if its always been this way but i did gravity bleed the front brakes today and that did not seem to help. I did replace the master vac as the old one had a vacuum leak but I dont see that making a difference. I have the 4 pot toyota 4x4 calipers and they are right side up (bleeders on top)

     

    Im going to try bleeding the brakes again tomorrow with some help from someone, but does anyone have any other suggestions??

  2. Ok so I got my car and the wiring is kind of a mess. The car is basically stripped, I will be putting a dash back in but with all aftermarket gauges. Just looking to see if anyone has info on making a harness for a carb'd L24

     

    Here is a list of things I see needed to be included in the harness:

     

    Ignition

    Starter

    Alt.

    Coil

    Dizzy

    Battery

    Grounds?

     

    I beleive I have a ZX alt in my car but I need to double check, if I dont I would need a voltage regulator

     

    Any info would be great, write ups, links, personal expeirence. I did do a search but couldnt come up with much for an L series.

  3. so im looking at picking up an L24 that was removed from a car that a sbc was put into. I was told it was rebuilt about 2 yrs ago, new gaskets and valve seals, and was only in the car running for about 6 months until the small block went in. The exhaust manifold was was removed when i went to go check it out and there seemed to be A LOT of carbon buildup, like chunks would come out when i stuck my finger into the port.

     

    just wondering is this could be from running really rich? or a possibly oil leak? not too sure, just looking for some input, i have not had good luck so far with used l series motors, dont want it to happen again :/

  4. nah, got it in and running only to find out it needed a headgasket. or so i thought. after i got that replaced and running it was still spitting out coolant, the head is cracked :( still looking for a cheap head to throw on, figure i might as well start mapping out the ka swap though.

     

    but yeah, from the research i did guys run a low psi pump to the surge tank then a high pressure pump after the surge tank. just gotta make sure both move the same volume. reasoning for this is the lack of baffles in the 240z and 260z tanks, and after even more searching i guess the 280 tank is not even that baffled.

  5. So I have done a lot of searching but can not seem to find the answer. I have a 73 240z, I'm looking to put a ka24de into and down the line turbo it. It seems like running the low psi pump to surge tank to high psi pump is a popular option. now what about swapping in a fuel tank from an EFI z? Im guessing people have thought about it, and most likely done it, just cant really find the info.

     

    thanks

  6. ok so i picked up an l28 to drop into the 240z i bought and shortly after i got it running found out coolant in the oil. i figure its a headgasket and i had a new one laying around so i put it on. got it all back together, and running only to find more coolant in the oil.

     

    now when i had the head off i noticed two small cracks in the dome of the combustion chamber in cyl 4 and 5. they were similar cracks, coming from the valve area and going out the edge. now i know this should have been a huge sign right there but i was hoping it would not be an issue (stupid i know)

     

    what i want to find out though is this definitely the cause of coolant mixing with the oil? or should i be looking somewhere else for that?

  7. ok so i picked up an l28 to throw into the 240z i picked up. the blown engine that was in the car when i got it already had the electronic distributor conversion. i basically swapped everything over onto the l28 long block. after getting it together and having no luck with it firing at all i discovered the distributor shaft was in backwards. for a quicker fix rather than pulling the oil pump i just switched all the plug wires around. i also replaced the plugs. so now it will fire and if i give it 1/4 throttle it will stay running, i had to retard the timing all the way to do this as if i advanced it at all the engine would not run. any ideas? is swapping the plugs wires around like i did not gona work? do i just need to drop the oil pump?

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