Oleh

can you tell me where you got those lexan windows ? thanks

^ wtf ? you cant chrome plastic...Just get a steel OEM bumper

and why would you say that ?

wow, heating it works very well, it just peeled away. Gotta get some dry ice tomorrow (for experiment purposes) Thanks guys !!!

Im gutting my car, and i cant remove the black stuff ( looks like solid roof cement) of the floor panels, is there a special way to work it ? im using a knife and screw driver, major PITA. Can i put some paint striper or anything on it?

Im thinking of covering some metal in roof cement ? has anyone done this ? Like prime (zero rust) and then cover that in roof cement ?

maybe check the IACV sensor ? also try resetting the ecu... Test the vacuum with a vac gauge, it should read around 20...

links dont work

Out of those two engines, definetly go with a KA24DE. Its a great engine. Strong, and reliable. idk anything about the other engine. but the KA, in N/A form will make upwards of 220-240rhwp on motor w/o juice. With a turbo, you can manage 350rhwp on stock block, so anywhere from 10-12psi, maybe even 14psi on a T3/T4. The only problem with the KA is the weak ringland. They will blow after 1bar (14-15psi). If you run forged pistons ( many choices, Supertech, Weisco, Ross,) Forged Rods ( Aries handle up to 700rhwp), you should be able to make around 500-600rhwp with 25-30psi on a big turbo. You can run a T66 a SC61 a T3/T4Oe. The head, stock flows pretty well. On N/A cams you can make decent power, If your cheap, swap in a altima's intake cam so you'll get 248/248. Anyways, if your going with a 4 cyl, definetly go with a KA24. If your going for a high revving car, get a 3rotor, 13B, plenty fast with a turbo. Also, dont get a S2000 motor because it would take a shitload of money to make it fast, if you put I/H/E you could actually lose power on it.

^ How much did you pay for Ospho ?

negative. my ZX has it on the drivers side.

thats what i need, thanks

I cut out my rear end, and welded everything back together, but because of the moisture, there's surface rust on the new sheet metal, what should i paint it with or prime that wont rust it out again. Or is the sheet metal bad. I looked at POR-15, also searched. Thanks EDIT: A more indept search, i found out about RustMort. If any has any more ideas about this please post.

i give you props on the work, but im not feeling it at all.

^ you have alot of searching to do. And no, unless you're running race gas, with that compression on pump gas its impossible.

Wow, Sorry to hear that, My condolenses.

compression: http://e30m3performance.com/myths/more_myths1/comp_ratio/comp_ratio.htm A AEM AMS costs about 1700 for a KA(idk about the L28) and should be around no more than 500 to install. I recommend a standalone if you're serious, but you can try a piggyback, like a Emanage, or a Megasquirt. I believe Arizona Z sells cams, and they can regrind to any spec you want. For the cam it depends on what you want, like if the car is going to be streetable, you need a mild cam, so not to crazy on the lift/duration, so your idle isnt like 2K, most cams will eliminate low end torque, so for streetablility, idk if you want a large cam. What is the car going to be used for ? daily driving, auto x, etc ?

^happy ?

The pistons, depends on your bore, can be .20 / .40 overbore, and must be forged, the rods, aswell must be forged. So if you're going all motor, you must bump the compression to atleast a 10:1, but for a turbo that seems fine. I was quoted 1300 for a twin turbo header, so that seems reasonable. What do you mean bored ? Do you mean port matched, if so then yeah. Read this : http://www.are.com.au/techtalk/intecoolersMR.htm#ENGINE%20DESTRUCTION%20%20!%20!%20!%20! What kind of ECU, that seems way to much, unless you'll be running a standalone like a AEM AMS, or TEC3 but still thats alot. Read this:http://www.sa-motorsports.com/diyport.shtm I will be running this turbo as well. Read this:http://www.forcedinductions.com/help.htm To pass, you will need to run a cat and maybe even C116.

were's the KA24DE ????

thats seems pretty low, switch to thicker oil, it should bump it up a little.

Im looking for around 450rhwp, what would get me there ? Can the stock block hold the power ? EDIT: This is on a L28 with a P79head.

the 135T is non adjustable and the 135+ is adjustable.