PeterZ
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Posts posted by PeterZ
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Good job with the silicone. I just found this thread after replacing my clock. I put in a Quartz clock from a 280. I took mine apart and put the 280 dial and movement into the original housing and bezel. The only problem is the illumination bulb no longer has enough room to fit in the original hole. I will take it out later and install another bulb, maybe LED. My 240 clock was terribly slow but now that it is out I'll try to lube and retest it. I think the clock runs on a pulsed 12 volt source (voltage regulator) to minimize battery drain. I have one of each style clock and I was hoping to find a voltage regulator in the JY so my electronics girlfriend could find out just what fails on them and then adjust for proper operation. Somebody had a good idea to use the clock as a mount for his boost gauge.
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Looks like you burned some water, the two pistons are so clean. Can you catch your nail in the groove?
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There's a good ITS 72 240Z for sale in Calif. I drove it once a few years ago when the owner and I traded one weekend. I say it's well worth the $5,000 for the car and the trailer. Last time I talked to him it was for sale in The Wheel (SCCA Magazine).
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The sesnor has a negative temperature coefficient. When the engine is cold you will measure somewhere in the 3000 ohm range at the sensor; when the engine is warm you will measure somewhere in the 300 ohm range. A disconnected or open connection due to corrosion will make the engine think it is ice cold and run very rich (infinite resistance). Resistors are available to tune in your fuel for specific reqirements if you don't want to play with the AFM. Of course an oxygen sensor, if equipped will try to cancel the effects.
PS congrats on the good find and repair.
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Thanks, I'm interested in the outcome as I haven't installed a cat on a carbureted V8. I'm under the impression that excessive fuel will cause internal overheating and damage over time. The bad cats I have taken off doing regular service work were always caused by some sort of engine management problem. Fuel pressure regulator, engine misfire, etc. I did install a two cat system on a 280Z with a 92 vette engine and they needed some additional heat shielding because they were close to the tunnel. No problems there. Good luck.
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Proper fuel, Good spark at the correct time and compression. Check basics, be systematic. Sounds like a power loss under load conditions. Secondary ignition problems or timing curve could be way out. Sticky advance weights, poor coil or wires definitely come up as possibilities. Of course, I'm guessing (electrical) without additional infomration. Is there a single cylinder misfire, one half of the engine or random misfiring? Can you duplicate the problem in neutral?
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Good job. I appreciate cleaner air (and the smell of breakfast). Did you add heat shielding? If your engine was terribly rich you may overheat the cat damaging the undercar and also do internal converter damage. The inlet side of the cat will look like moon rocks. Did you do any pressure gauge readings before and after the cat? I have welded brake fittings on customer's pipes so they can temporarily attach pressure gauges to quantify the amount of pressure drop and determine if the cat is plugged. Saves a bunch of time diagnosing a new problem knowing the cat is clear.
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My Maxima Kit is from an 85, I think, and it uses only two bolts. I didn't have to pull no stinkin' stubaxles.
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Detonation is a strong possibility. Did you find anything in the pan? I have seen the skirts broken like that when a piece of oil pan baffling broke off and the crankshaft kept throwing it around. The pass side of the piston is on the leading edge of crank rotation. That skirt is designed for that type of piston and its expansion rate, etc. I would expect some "accelerated wear" should you continue.
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Platinum plugs seem to work best on newer cars with good engine management systems. I also have had poor performance from the platinum plugs on early FI systems (BMW, Datsun) and on carbureted engines.
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I think that at 2700 pounds the differential weight won't matter since the 240 minimum wt is 300 pounds less and should be faster than any 280. If you're running a 280 for fun then "run what you brung" and fun it will be.
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I used to spin my needles in a drill press and shape the tapers exactly the way I wanted them. With a set of calipers you can plot what the dimensions are as the needle moves within the nozzle. It did take some time to know what works but after that smogging a Z was done as easily as tuning for performance.
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I don't know what ztherapy makes so I can't comment on those. I have liked the ones I have used and tuned from Rebello.
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Learn for what type of welder you want to have. I agree with Lunar240z that TIG and MIG are the best bet. Who here wants to learn to weld underwater ( class B1AB)? You can learn the basics for MIG welding steel well enough with less than a hour of good instruction. There's tons of info and videos available but IMO you have to have the welder in your hand and some guidance for the harder problems to be proficient. Take the class that lets you weld they material you want to be welding. I think you'll want to be in B74A but you need the fill the prerequisite. Lunar240z, I didn't know you had taken classes, with more time I'd have let you weld your intake. Is it on the car yet?
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Mine's been around over 10 years. I'm the second owner and have had it a few years driving it 3-4 days a week. I worked on the engine, trans, brake, and suspension installations for the original owner when he was a customer at Dando's. Maintenance isn't a problem on the hybrid; its the adding or changing things around (like putting in a diff mount support brace) that take the time. Mine drives quite well with the 700R4 once I got it adjusted properly. AC is next.
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Do you have good pressure while the car is running or just cranking? Proper air/fuel, spark at the right time and compression is all you need. Branch off from there. Good luck.
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Closing the air bypass screw (clockwise) will cause more air to go past the Air Flow Meter opening the metering door causing an increase in fuel delivery. Conversely, backing out the screw bypasses more air and the metering door closes reducing the amount of fuel delivery. (Right is rich, left is lean) Now, about the blue lines in hockey...
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You may also have some funkiness going on with the ingition switch. The "Run" connections may be intermittent. If you can check an alternator by yourself you have the ability to find the problem. Good job.
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One smoke-wrench will is about the fewest amount of tools I can think of that will cover everything you could possibly encounter in a junkyard.
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Wow, too cool. I'd pay some real money to drive a car like that on a track like that. I drove Mosport raceway in Toronto once and that was a kick compared to Laguna Seca but The Ring is the ultimate. Have to go back and watch the second half, my computer is taking forever to buffer. Solid car, excellent driver. Good combo.
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Any chance of using the boost pressure to assist the spring on the gate? I did some BMW turbo stuff years ago and we had special tops made for the wastegate that used air pressure from the manifold fed through a small pressure regulator to assist the spring side of the gate. You could dial a boost from the driver's seat. I haven't messed with a BOV but it worked for what we wanted to do. It's 20 something years old so pardon me if it's behind the times.
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Well I'll be a monkey's uncle! DMV needs better camera equipment... everyone looks like a bunch of primates!
We're all just monkey boys...(BB)
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V motors are balance differently than in-line engines. From my memory of my machine shop days in line cranks don't need the bobweights, only V motors. You still balance rods, pistons etc. as above but they don't add the weights to the crank for balancing. That was very late 70's technology. Anyway there is a lot of info available if you do the searching. Good luck.
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Would this be an instantaneous load calculation simultaneuos to a train leaving Chicago in the opposite direction with an equal acceleration?
Is this a blown headgasket? Opinions needed quick.
in Trouble Shooting / General Engine
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I know the 3.8 L motors lost head gaskets at 80,000 miles. You will find "baby diaper" looking material on the inside of the valve cover. You can take off the oil filler cap and find it there too. If there's oil getting into the coolant there's probably coolant getting into the oil. I did a few of the 3.8 and only one 3.0 head gasket in the late 90s before I changed carreers. The gaskets usually leak about 6 months after an overheating. The gasket compresses from the heat expansion after a few months the gasket finally allows water and oil to bridge. Driving the car will evaporate the water from the bottomof the oil pan but the steam rises and collects on the underside of the valve cover. Some Fords don't vent well and there's a little much inside the filler cap. If you run your finger on the inside of the valve cover and get a finger full of $#!+ you're done. PS watch for sharp edges.