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About 3ftyZ

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  1. if you got a 280 it'll fit no problem. its dope quality
  2. Negative. I haven't made progress. Holidays got in the way and now i broke my ankle, so its on hold. I got the 2 inc, bare metal. its not going to be hard to finish it, but finding the time is.
  3. After emailing @Skillard, and being pointed out to the website (really, im that dumb), its clear that the core supports are different on earlier s30's from both depth standpoint and bolt thread diameter. Proceeding forward, I'll start by getting long bolts with some nylon spacers and washers. Then i'll have a look at the mounting position of the front air dam and see if any adjustments are called for. Lastly, I'll have to figure out my sway bar situation which impacts the rear panel of the splitter. Thanks all for the help! I'll update this thread when I make progress.
  4. thanks @evoog I was afraid that might be the case, and I think that will make the air dam point upward which might look funny. I guess when I make the adjustment, we'll see how it goes. I've never thought about contacting Mr. Skillard - ill hold onto that as i move forward. Does anyone have a picture of their cross member that shows the holes that should bolt up?
  5. Thanks! here’s the first problem I may have: https://photos.app.goo.gl/2AEsZPGVKqt67FBq2 Is my air dam installed too low? Look at the forward mounting area - should it be pointing more up? I installed it this way as it is level at this angle. Here's a shot of the radiator core support and the funky radiator holder the previous owner installed. The sway bar is also in the way... https://photos.app.goo.gl/ilQHdr0VgzPNwcEF2
  6. I need some help. I purchased a Skillard s30 splitter for type 1 air dam and can't seem to install it. Here's my combo: 73 240z MSA urethane air dam - http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic02a01b/50-1411 Skilard Splitter - https://skillard.com/products/240z-260z-280z-front-lip-splitter the problem? The bolts that should go into the core support aren't the right size The sway bar is in the way The biggest problem, the splitter wont even mount up flush onto the core support, its off by many inches The air dam appears to be way low
  7. Oh! wow, I think this is it! http://www.courtesyparts.com/300zx-parts-z31-1984-1989/genuine-nissan-parts/power-train/370-propeller-shaft/-c-2317_2318_2391_2409.html
  8. Hey all, I installed my R200 CLSD last weekend and came across a small predicament. The bolts i purchased to mate the drive-shaft to the pinion flange are too big! I used the Drive Shaft Adapter Flange from: http://www.jagsthatrun.com/Pages/Parts_DAT_driveshaft_flange.html Specifically, the adapter for 300ZX (part number #DAT-110-300ZX) I purchased 4 10mm x30mm socket cap bolts, but the head diameter is too large and there's no sleeve/shoulder. What I cant find is either the original bolts from Nissan for the 88 300zx turbo that the R200 came out of, o
  9. Here's the only pic I have of it. https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/XmUIbyv0rWIe7EZp9HFJq4P_c2oYhsQyJbWzj1heIFM?feat=directlink it's got a SPICER number on it, but I failed to take a picture of that before I assembled the driveshaft and u-joints. I can't read it now that its assembled. I'm not sure if JTR guys modified the part in any way.
  10. Looks different than mine. look at my picture linked above and you'll see my pinion flange is cirlce, not squared off like yours. you may need the '#DAT-110-2.0' I used the "Drive Shaft Adapter Flange. (2 Inch Pilot), for 300ZX Cars. #DAT-110-300ZX" from http://www.jagsthatrun.com/Pages/Parts_DAT_driveshaft_flange.html I've put new u-joints in and had the drive shaft balanced and its ready to go back in the z.
  11. Deja, I think this is it: http://www.jagsthatrun.com/Pages/Parts_DAT_driveshaft_flange.html Thanks~
  12. I've already got a 350 chevy in mine and have been running the rear end that came with the car. The guy I bought it from welded the spider gears for drag use and I've been slowly obtaining parts for the CLSD conversion. The unit I purchased is a R200 from an 88 300zx turbo, which I guess explains why its not as common as the others.
  13. Thanks for the input and advice. I'll reach out to Johnscars.com to see what he's got. What do most people run for their pinion flanges for CLSD conversions? I would have expected my scenario to be quite common. Thanks again!
  14. JMo, Is the newer pinion flange superior to the old? It looks beefier and all-around more stout that the original piece. I'd like to use this over swaping as the diff is all setup and ready to go and I'm not confident in which torque specs I should follow. I'd like to find the companion flange to mate to my drive shaft and upgrade the universal joints at the same time, do you have any recommendation on where I can find the correct companion flange? I appreciate all you guy's help. thanks
  15. hey guys, I tried searching for the answer to this question and found mixed results. Here's what I'm working with: I purchased a R200 CLSD off ebay,it's the late 80's CLSD, had it serviced and added clutches from Savage a few years back. Now I finally have time to work on the car and I have my old R200 out of the car and have found that the pinion flange on the new CLSD R200 is significantly different than the original R200 (my car is a 73 240). Here's a link with a picture of the new r200 (left), drive shaft (middle) and old r200 (right): https://picasaweb.google.com
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