Lighft01
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Posts posted by Lighft01
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1977 280z, Heads, cam, nitrous LS6 ready, now just need to finish the car
1978 280z, 2 dead cylinders, still runs i love that car. Planning on rebuilding the L28, maybe a little head work, cam but mostly just a weekend cruiser. ITS GREEN.
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Ive had new floor pans for a while and i finally saved enough money to buy and engine (LS6), im getting ready to get it back and figured its prolly time to start doing some repair work on the body of my car 77' 280.
I had some pete paraska style sub frames made, and my floor pans are from zedd findings. Just interested in how if any of you have used these floor pans, you marked the old floor where to cut. I cut out the seat supports, and am wondering how high i should take the floor pan up the tranny tunnel because there seems to be a lot of extra metal on the floor pans.
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Here it is, i thought i found it on this site, im not sure i read so many but i remember posting it on my board.
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ive seen them powdercoated before, you might want to check into it
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Lt1's are def. cheaper to mod, but when you are buying all forged parts anyway you are going to be spending alot of $$$. I dont think the aftermarket following for Lt1's is that great though. Only thing i can think of is its an iron block and could potentially hold more power. I think Ls1 blocks give up about 800hp, but dont quote me on that. I think in the long run you are better off with an LSx motor, its much better than an lt1 in most ways.
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http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=718430 Ls1 dropout $$2800
This is the guy i was talking about you might want to pm him and see what he can get you.
http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=719175
As far as the 6.0 iron blocks go thats what most of the Fbody guys are going to because they will hold more power than the aluminum ls1, but i think the ls1 block will around 800hp, not 100% but im pretty sure i read that somewhere. My buddy has a 6.0 block, cam, headers, intake, and angle milled heads and is making 450whp. Nasty little trans am, i dont need to say hes gonna hate the day when the ls6 goes in my 280. IMO id go with the LS1 you are going to have such an easier time finding stock and aftermarket parts, plus all the parts from the ls1/6 swap out so you can always swap the ls6 intake, cam, heads on your ls1 later down the road. Even then if you decide to go with a truck motor after that all your accessories, intake, heads, cam will swap to the 6.0.
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If it helps with your price estimate, i just picked up a complete pullout LS6, with pcm harness and even a bellhousing for $3800. Only had 27k on it. You could probably get an entire car for around that and just part it out. Ive seen LS1 Pullouts for less, and more really just depends on who is selling them. Check out LS1tech.com, in the for sale section there is a guy who has like 3 ls1/t56 pullouts and 2 or 3 ls1/4l60 pullouts (auto). Ill see if i can find the link.
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The way ive seen the local ls1 shop do it, is unbolt the front cradle/subframe and lift the car off of it. Seems to go pretty fast they had it done in about 30 min, ofcourse they do it all day everyday and they had about 3 guys working on it.
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If you get that would you let me know if the quality is any good, i need to get one of those lower quarter pieces.
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BLAH....
. It looked awesome before i think but i can understand not wanting something that is going to get ruined everytime you have butter fingers. The only thing that matters is that you like it. -
LMFAO!!!! Your kidding right?
Please dont ever compare an import to V8+ horspower' date=' that makes me hurt from laughing so hard.[/quote']
Or an import with v8+ Horsepower.............Long live the hybrid!
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That is so sweet
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I use a black sand, low free silica is what it says on the bag. I get it from northern tool for 6 bucks for an 40 lb bag. Works excellent and is easy to sweep up. I use a flour sifter to seperate the big chunks from the good sand, and reuse it about 2-3 times before its just too fine to use anymore. Dont use it inside your garage it makes a huge mess, i found out the hard way.
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Anyway before you spend $1k per wheel
Isk
1000$ per wheel?? Dont you mean a set?
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So those are the yz fenders, they dont look like the yz fenders ive seen before. I really like them, maybe im thinking zg, whatever they are they look awesome wish my "glassin" skills were up to that level. Is the duraglass you are using to bong these to your car sandable, or do you use body filler on the seem?
Light
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check out www.motorsportauto.com
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I dont have an ls1 but i see them for sale all the time on dfwls1.com and ls1.com . Shortblocks, Longblocks, Ls1, Lt1, you should check it out.
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I use the .035 width in my mig welder, its flux core, and it works fine. Ill have to check my heat setting when i get home though, havent welded anything in a while.
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Mine came off in chunks on a cold day, on the warm day it would just roll up into a ball it was much more difficult to get off that way.
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When you cut out the frame rails is it necessary to brace the engine bay to keep it from twisting or moving? A friend of mine told me to weld pieces of metal inbetween the fender wells to keep them from moving.
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Clutch and flywheel need to be replaced, and im not sure about the tranny when you spin the input the resistance seems the same in every gear, also there was very little fluid in the transmission. Anyone have a tranny for sale?
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Yes master cylinder has fluid, i bled it and the fork is moving.
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I just bought an 85' 300zx, runs perfect but the thing will not move. You can shift it into any gear when the car is running and not even touch the clutch, but doesnt grind or make any noises. Clutch will come back once pushed in, and feels good but will not engage in any gear at any rpm. Is my clutch totally gone?? Id like to get a few opinions before i start pulling things apart. I replaced the clutch master cylinder, hoping for the easy fix but still has the same problem. Any feedback would be greatly appreciated, i did search but couldnt find anyone having this problem. Thanks again.
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. It looked awesome before i think but i can understand not wanting something that is going to get ruined everytime you have butter fingers. The only thing that matters is that you like it.
New Floor Pans
in Fabrication / Welding
Posted
Did you over lap the new with the existing any?? i seem you welded the entire seam. Is it better to do that or stitch weld it. A friend of mine swears up and down that stitch welding is better. I have a "450hp" LS6 going in it and i dont want to twist the car and the damn welds on the floor pan crack.