Lighft01
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Posts posted by Lighft01
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I removed the rear bumper from my car about a year ago, and finally got tired of looking at the bumper supports. Here is the new rear end, and MSA type 3 bumper. I think it looks pretty good, i also have the side skirts, but opted to not put them on because they looked kind of goddy. Thinking about tweaking them a little first and trying them on later.
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There are 2 versions of the 90mm throttlbody, they supposedly fixed the problem with the 2nd generation TB's. They have redesigned the linkage on the new "big mouth" 92mm that eliminates the problem.
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I have funky trees at my house, and they leave crap on my car all the time. (Z is in the garage). I go down to the local paint store and get a clay bar. Clay bar takes out about 99% of the stuff off the paint on my car. Might be worth a try before you take sand paper to your paint..
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Ok, cool, thx. Actually, I saw that LS engines were e-throttles (which I'll be honest, pisses me off), but Holley makes a drop in TB replacement that converts it to cable. Sure, it's expensive, but I'd pay that to get a cable throttle on it.
LS1's through 2001 in f-bodies were cable TB's, the newer ls1's in the gto's are TBW. LS6's are TBW and pretty much every LS based engine now is throttle by wire. Throttle response isnt any different to me, i have driven both. I swaped my z to a cable so i could run a fast 90/90 set up that i had. How much is a holly cable throttlebody? Id look into either a nick williams, or a FAST throttle body.
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You said John's kit ....... did you mean John's Cars or JTR. Didnt realize John's Cars had a kit.... I did get most of the other items from John's Cars, but tubing, headers and radiator from JTR.
No the owner of jags that run is named john, ive given him so much money that i just call him by his first name, makes me feel better, ha ha. Im going to swing by his shop on tuesday and probably pick up this intake stuff.
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Nice, thanks again for the info guys. Ill probably end up using johns kit as that is where i have been getting the rest of my stuff. He will be happy to hear from me again so soon. The intake temperatures were the only thing that were bugging me about that kit, good to know that it performs well. thanks again.
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I noticed a couple of different styles of intakes, and trying to get some input on intake piping from you guys that are actually driving your cars as this is where im at in my swap. Those of you with the intakes that go around the radiator through the stock intake hole in the core support, what are you intake temps like? Seems like a long intake pipe like that would end up yielding pretty high intake temperatures. Also is that a kit, or are you guys just piecing them together?
Saw Vinh's (Atleast i think thats how you spell it) with the cobra daytona replica. I like how his intake runs over the radiator but doesn look like leaves much room behind for fans. Also i am running a 90 mm throttle body so i have to have a 4 inch intake tube, which would really put the radiator at an angle where the fans really would fit behind.
Sorry for the novel just looking for some input.
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Any of you guys that used the JTR driveshaft have to get new driveshaft bolts?? He upgraded the flange on his driveshaft and it is like 3/4" thick. Thats all good and well but the stock one is maybe a 1/4" thick. He didnt tell me i would have to get new bolts just wondering if i mixed these bolts up with another year ( I have about 3 datsun in pieces in my garage). I never noticed if the driveshaft bolts were any different on the sqare bolt pattern than the rectangular one. Im gonna search around tonight and see if i can find a good source for some, anyone know where to get these bolts?
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Luckily i only work about 5 miles from Johns Cars, so i took it back and he found out that every one of them that he had on in stock were off. So he redrilled it for me while i was there, and it worked fine. Picked up a driveshaft while i was there, so shouldnt be too long before my car is running/moving.
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Anyone have trouble getting the rubber mount to bolt to the crossmember. The wholes on mine are about 1/8th of an inch off, its just enough to keep one of the bolts from bolting in correctly. Just wondering if anyone had the same problem, i dont have a drill press and i imagine thats the only way you could drill steel that thick.
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You guys are more help than the chevy guys, nobody could answer my questions on some other forums. Thanks for the info hopefully i can get her running soon.
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Trying to finish up the wiring on my LS6 swap. I am using an LS1 alternator with the F-body bracket because the alternator on a corvette will not fit when its in the top position. Didnt find this out until i went to stab the motor. Hopefully for anyone swapping an LS6 this helps you out. Onto my question. For those of you that have done the swap. What did you do with the alternor charging wire. The stock setup runs from the alternator to the 60 amp fusible link. I have already done the maxi fuse upgrade so mine was running to a 60 amp fuse. If you extend that wire all the way around the engine bay to the alternator, will it hold that many amps (110) i think it is for the f-body alternator. I mean will it not get too hot and melt with that much current running all the length of wire? What gauge wire would your potentially want to upgrade to to cover that distance? Also for those of you still running fusible links, do you not burn up fusible links all the time? My plan was to just run the charging wire from the alternator directly to the + post on the battery. I think the last f-body i saw the charging wire ran to a fuseblock and then on to the battery.
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Well my car started acting up again when it got warm. Stuttering, and missing, sounds like it has a cam. The motor seems to be getting really hot really fast. I think it may be running lean, so im going to clean the injectors out again.
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It isnt a fuel filter its the strainer, it is inside the inlet pipe that is on the actual pump itself. I dont need it now though, my pump died on me today so i had to go and get a new one, and the strainer wont fit in it.
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Well its running now, i cleaned out the strainer and put it back in its old, and cracked and has some holes in it so if anyone has one they dont need ill buy it off of you, but thanks for all your help. Now that i know it runs, it will be easier to figure out why the fuel pump doesnt work off of the stock harness. Again thanks for all your time, i really appreciate it.
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Ok think i figure out what was wrong. There was about 3 inches of crud in the lines right before the fuel pump. There is a strainer in the inlet line to the fuel pump and it was full of crap i got all the gunk out, and after a few minutes of running clean gas through the pump, its pumping out nice clean gas again. I need a new strainer though, does anyone know where i can get one?? Searched but all i found was about the strainer thats in the tank itself. Part number would help, or an equivelant strainer from another car. I checked my local parts store they did not have any. Im going to run down to autozone right now and see if they have one. Please help if you know i want to get my car running this weekend
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check fusible links yet?
I swapped the fusable links and entire realy box from another 78 that i have that runs perfect, and still nothing. The only fusible links i havent changed are the ones on the relay box that are closest to the battery. the two green ones. Even after i swapped the reley box, the fuel pump still will not work, im going to pull the fuel lines tonight and blow them out, and probably pull the fuel rail again, and blow it out. Probably should have done that to begin with.
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made a little progress today, swapped the 4 big fusable links on the outside of the relay box with another car i have that runs good, and the efi main relay clicks now when you turn the car to on. Checked the timing just be sure it was right, got the #1 piston to TDC pulled the cap, and it was one cylinder off. So i fixed the plugs wires, and bam the first cylinder fires, and then the car just goes back to spinning. Let of the starter for a second try it again, same thing, trys to start and then goes to spinning. When i pulled the plugs to see if they were wet, some smelled of fuel, and some had a really faint smell. I dont think all the injectors are getting the same amount of fuel, im going to pull the rail tonight and put air through it.
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You've already made a good start at diagnosing the issue. Good move reading up and downloading the bible. It was released in 75 when the fuel injection was introduced in the first 280. The wiring harness changed slightly in 77 and 78 and automatic and manual trannies have a slightly different wiring but all the components are the same and functionally it is the same system. The bible is mostly good for understanding how the system works and providing simple test procedures that can be performed with a multimeter for all the different components. Getting a new battery helps because the system needs full voltage to function properly. Here is a link to an AutoZone site with wiring diagrams for all years
http://www.autozone.com/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/1d/1d/80/0900823d801d1d80/repairInfoPages.htm
The first thing you want to check is the connectors. The fuel injection wiring harness is a whole separate harness from the rest of the cars wiring. The connectors get old and crusty and often the voltage and signals they carry can be mucked up by a bad connection at the connectors. There are only so many, disconnect each one, spray some contact cleaner in each one. Clean them up with a little brush if you have to.
The fuel injectors do not receive positive voltage to fire so you won't get anything by checking them for voltage. They actually have a constant positive connection and the ECU grounds them to fire them. To check if the injectors are firing you can hold a screwdriver to them, tip against the body of the injector and your ear to the handle and listen for a click click click. Or you can go to the autoparts store and buy a noid light. They are cheap, less then $15. Unplug one injector wire and plug the noid light in instead, then turn the motor over and see if the light flashes.
You seem sure you have fuel pressure at the fuel rail. The sytem actually needs 25 - 30 psi at the rail. A cheapy fuel pressure gauge tee'd into the rail works best.
The stepping resistors are located under the driver side inspection cover next to and behind the clutch master cylinder. I think on your car the fuel pump relay would be on the passenger side fender well on the metal bracket that also holds the voltage regulator. (not sure)
So, try some of the stuff I've mentioned and then report back on exactly what is happening. Does the car try to start at all? It turns over but nothing happens or it coughs and sputters but won't start or it starts but won't stay running? What? And of course check and make sure you have spark. Good luck, once it's running you'll love the sytem. Make sure the vacumn hoses are all brand new and the boot between the AFM and the throttle body isn't torn.
The car turns over fine, really well, but the engine never actually starts. Ive tested for spark, its fine, sparks good, and i just replaced the wires and plugs. Just bought a brand new optima red top when i got it so i know its not the battery. I took my dash off, to try and find the dropping resistors and EFI relay to no avail, someone on another site told me where it was, dropping resistors under driver side inspection lid, and realys in the relay box passenger side fender. When i turn the key to "on" none of the relays click or make any noise. Someone else told me my problem was not with the realys but with the wiring. I have another 78' that runs perfect thinking about pulling the FI harness out of it and swapping them to see if that makes a difference. Fuel pressure did seem kind of weak, ill have to get a gauge and check and see what it is actually running. If you spray starting fluid in the intake the car runs fine, as long as you keep spraying. I swapped the afm from my other car thinking it might be the fuel cut off in the original and didnt want to tear the AFM apart, made no difference. The car was sitting in the PO's driveway for a year, maybe some of the wires got crusty but none of them looked that bad. Ill go back over everything this weekend really well and let you know, thanks for the support.
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Yet another datsun with a fuel problem. I think i read every fuel/my car wont start thread in this forum but, still cannot get my car running. Downloaded a efi "bible" but it was for a 75, as i understand it from reading the fuel injection in a 78 is different than the rest.
In the EFI bible it shows position of a fuel pump relay, and some dropping resisitors. I cannot find these in my car. The PO said that he daily drove this car before he parked it. It sat up for about a year before i got it.
Brand new battery plugs, wires. Originally i found out the fuel pump was running, so after i could not find any relays, i just bypassed it to a switched 12v source to see if i could get it to run. Now the fuel pump works, but injectors dont seem to be spraying. I know i have fuel to the rail, i pulled in inlet line off and watched fuel pump into a bottle. When you pull the plugs after trying to get it to start there is no fuel smell.
Do not get any voltage to the fuel injector plugs. Pulled the plug to the ecm and there isnt even a fuel pump realy pin in it. Well atleast not where the efi bible said to find it. Today i pulled the dash off, and found a silver cylindrical relay looking thing right above the hood popper. Should this be clicking when i turn the key to "on"? The ignition relay is good i put my hand on it and tried tried to start it and it is clicking. Im kind of lost now, dont know where to start or what. Can anyone give me a direction to go in?
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I emailed him about that whole setup, he has the mustache bars for r-200's but he said the r-230 mustache bars were still in the works. That was about 3 months ago and i havent heard anything from him about them having them ready. I am however going to order the brace set regardless of whether he has the mustached bar. Have any of you guys heard if he has the r-230 MB's ready yet?
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damn... that is gonna be sick! Good luck! What are you going to use for a tranny and rear end? What about shoes? Whats gonna keep that power to the ground?
T56 is going behind the motor, steel 1-2 and 2-3 shift forks, nothing crazy yet and pro 5.0 shifter. Spec 3+ clutch, preussure plate, and spec steel flywheel. Ive had an R-230 for a while just waiting until i have the money to buy all the modern motorsports rearend swap so i can do it and their lower control arms at the same time. My buddy works at a machine shop so ill probably have him make me a mustache bar, iver been waiting for someone to come out with one but as far as i know everyone is just re-drilling their stock mustache bars. Mines old as balls and with 400+ hp before nitrous i want something thats not going to break. I havent decided if i want to mess with piecing together a brake kit, but i like AZC's big break kit and coilover set up, just kinda pricey, but you get what you pay for i guess. Im probably going to run drag radials out back all the time, id hate to be driving on street tires and not get to play with random t/a's and vettes that pull up because i have no traction, but im leaving all that for next year. I just want to have the drivetrain in and have it running by the end of the year. I can work on the rest later. Ill try and keep you guys updated as this stuff gets done, with pics/vids.
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After having my 77' Datsun for about 3 years now, and going through 3 different motor choices i finally settled on some kind of LSX. My first choice was chevy 350, nothing crazy, after that i bought a 385 C.I. SBC. Decided to that i liked the LS1 and bought a short block. I scrounged for parts for about 4 months before deciding i would just sell what the parts i had and buy a complete engine. The local LSX shop new i had been looking and called me when a low mileage LS6 came into their shop. It was from a 2003 Vette, and had 30k on it. So i bought it, and spent the last 2 months getting the parts for it and finally its home in the garage.
Specs:
2003 Corvette LS6
346 C.I.
Stock Bottom end- new rings and bearings
Fly cut pistons
Stage 2 ported and polished heads, angled milled .030
Manley Valves 2.02 intake, 1.60 Exhaust
Crane dual springs, good for .650 lift
titanium locks, and retainers
Cometic Head Gaskets (Nitrous in the future(
hardened pushrods
Comp R LSX Lifters
Crane Gold race Aluminum Roller Rockers
RPM 5 cam 234/244 duration cam
FAST 90mm intake
Fast 90mm T/B ( Not on in pictures because i decided to go cable instead of keeping the stock electronic set up)
Just wanted to thank everyone who posts, ive read alot of info on here the past couple of years, and know i will be reading more when i get my car back from the body shop. Ill keep you guys updated.
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Looks pretty straight forward but i dont weld much so i thought id ask before i messed it up. Thanks for you help guys.
), but Holley makes a drop in TB replacement that converts it to cable. Sure, it's expensive, but I'd pay that to get a cable throttle on it.
Just back from Body shop
in Body Kits & Paint
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Keeping the side markers, and trust me i know about the height. Just dont have the $ right now for the arizona set up i want. In due time my friends, in due time...