Whittie

Yeah i see where you're all coming from but in my case when i drive the car its either gonna be a stereo in the back surrounded by tools and gear or just the tools and gear so really its a bit unnavoidable having stuff "loose" in the back for me. Ill have a look into where i can mount some straps as well thought as an extra precaution. Im thinking from the back left and right hand sides of the car and having them cross over the sub and strap onto or just infront of the little lip at the front of the shelf. This way the sub is strapped down on top of the amp and the speakers are in no position to move either. Took the ole girl for a spin the other day to try and dislodge stuff and while race tyres dont proivide any where near the forces of an accident, still, nothing moved so much as a centimetre so i THINK these extra straps should be sufficient.

believe me "that ♥♥♥♥♥♥" aint gonna get anywhere near the front of the car. - In no way at all is it possible to fit the sub box under the roll cage - the amp is velcroed under the whole underneath, has to make its way over the lip on the parcel tray and doesnt fit between the seats anyways - thats after its negociated its way passed the 6x9's because there are protrusions on the side of the amp for the cable connections that sit on either side of the edge of the speakers - The speakers which are all wedged in between the sides of the car all of which sit right behind the seats and arent going to go anywhere near the passengers. Im not stupid and i did think about how to do this alot, hence why it took me 3 days till i was happy that i wasnt going to be killed by flying speakers.

Cheers mate Yeah its not bad at all. originally had it running 2 of those 12 inchs in my daily but figured it was kinda going to waste. That and i needed my boot back

Once upon a time a young boy decided that his zed needed a new head unit that, unlike the original specemin that came in the car, actually worked. Unfortunately for this young boy he didnt realise that the 30 year old speakers had disintegrated. literally. So after installing the head unit and finding to his surprise that all was not swell it was time for some new speakers. Once again all did not go smoothly as little did our little friend know 6" speakers dont fit in standard speaker spaces of the zed. So after removing the cowling and discovering that he was either going to have to chop the body (not a good idea near the window he decidede) or make some boxes it was time to make a trip to the hardware store. Several trips later and some custom boxes were finished. But all does not end well now either as once in the car the 6" speakers now sitting on the boot behind the chair lacked anything that could be called quality or punch. back to the drawing board... "I know!" says our little yound friend, "how about some 6x9's?!!". So it was off to the car audio shop for some 6x9 speakers and this time in purchased boxes. Now this solved our little friend problems for a short while as he wasn't driving the car on the road much but a few years later and our now not so little young friend revels in the attention that the car attracts and has decided it was time to fix the puny stereo once and for good. However, again we encounter another not so happy ending. As this car is raced by our friend and his father the weight and space that a proper stereo would occupy was not appropriate for use on the race track. So our new mission statement: Design and fit a stereo system that can be removed from the car quickly and easily at the track... Some tight fitting, some tricky wiring, some liquid nails, some staples and some velco later and this is what i have come up with: The power to the amp runs through the 20Amp plug and the aux cables simply plug in. the cables when not in use all tuck nice and neatly into the back of the centre console where there used to be some plastic trimming covering a hole. the 6x9's and the amp JUST wedge in and velcro helps hold everything to the carpet. the sub fits in nicely and is velcroed to the top of the amp and the carpet so that it doesnt flatten itsself when the loud peddle is mashed. All in all i am very happy with the entire system and even given the less than perfect speaker placement the system actually sounds rather good. It is also loud enough to be heard over the exhaust, tripple webers, and general road noise and when cranked could probably damage your ears faster than a trip to your local club

Just put in the msd series 6 digital (6540?) ignition so we should be good there. it made a huge differance to the performance. used to have a big flat spot and this has cured most of this. in doing so it has also increased low down torque, so its been really good and doesnt have any plans of going anywhere for the time being. Tom.

Just finalised all the details with the mechanic today and this is what we are going to do: bore was already .04" over and so we are going to .06" pistons arrived today crank is being knife edged head is being further ported and polished keeping rods (l24) going to larger cam again porting valves to put bigger ones in i think thats the lot. the engine is running triple 45 webers with a high flow bosch fuel pump, so fuel is no problem, and with any luck i will now be getting some decent power from the car when i get it back and tuned again. Thanks for your help everyone!! Tom.

Just gone and had a look at the car and the engineering shop where the pistons where x-rayed says that they are worn and need to be replaced anyways, and they've scored the bore so i'll be boring the motor anyways. now comes the hard part, how big to bore it and what pistons to use. ofcourse i want to go as big as possible (why the hell not) so i was thinking 88mm is safe from what i have read (i believe that would raise displacement to 2.95 litres?), but then what pistons can i put in that will still keep the high compression ratio? chatted to a few z savvy people around here and they have all said that stock pistons will be fine so what have people used that has worked well for them? i believe the rods are from an l24 but i dont know for sure, will have to do a bit more investigating but for now work on the assumption that they are l24 rods. does anyone know how hard it would be to track down an l28DE crank in Aus or is it not really worth all the extra effort and cost and should i just stick with the crank thats in there already? Thanks, Tom.

dry compression test shows up a range of about 100-120 psi, and wet brings that to 120-150 psi. just did a valve grind about 1000 miles ago and according to the mechanic all of the rings are fine. i'm not 100% sure of the details as i haven't had a chance to speak to my dad about all of this yet (he's been in contact with the mechanic more than i have) but he is telling me that the bore is worn and needs to be bored out, so i came here to find out my options. I will take a further closer look at the motor and get all of the measurements and let you guys know the results of that, then i suppose we can go from there. Thanks, Tom.

Originally had plans to put a turbo in, but then i got involved in historic regularity and speed events and the car wont comply with a turbo, so thats a no go. thanks ezzzzzzz, will give datsport a go. Thanks, Tom.

done some more searching and found that 87 and 88mm are popular over bore sizes. i'm leaning towards 88mm cause of the extra displacement but i couldnt find anything that said what pistons to use for this size bore, only that it was popular. forged pistons aren't out of the question so long as thet are proven to be significantly better, i just need to do some fast talking to run it past my dad (partnership in car as we race it). Thanks, Tom.

the car has been down on compression and i've just got it at the mechanics now and he said that the bore is worn a bit and it'll need to be bored. this means oversized pistons, but i have no idea what i need. i'ts currently an l28 F54 block, 2 mm shaved p90 head, some rods (prob standard, dont know), and flat top pistons. i race the car (read: spends most its time at 5000-6500 rpm) so i need some pistons that are going to be able to take this abuse, but i and my mechanic are not sure what to get. anyone got any good ideas? i am sure someone has done this before but a search proved fairly useless. I am in autralia so if i can get some stuff locally that would be good, but if it has to come from the us, thats cool too. price isnt tooooo much of an issue, they just need to be good lasting pistons, but i dont want to be spending thousands either. Thanks, Tom.

Found the problem, after re diong the harness and not working i completely redid the speaker wires and found one that had rubbed through on a sharp point and was grounding out. all fixed now, thanks for the help. Tom.

Thanks so far guys but no go Ok, ive just finished rewiring the whole harness and its not a ground or the fuse. i did a continuity check on the speakers and the speaker cable isnt earthing on the body and the speakers work on my home system. Now when i turn the stereo on it all lights up and the left speaker (always and only) makes a POP noise and thats it. i checked for a circuit with the multimeter and there is no internal circuit in the head unit when it is turned on so could this be the problem. if it is does it mean the head unit is beat? or is the problem perhaps a load safety cutout due to a malfunction or over load? just thought i'd mention cause these speakers are only 4 Ohm and i'm not sure of what the old ones were but they are bound to have been a higher resistance. I even re wired the speakers (only two) from rear's to front to see if that was the problem but to no avail. Tom.

I just installed new speakers in my Z and before i did the stereo ran fine, no though i have a really wierd intermittent problem. The stereo (LG head unit) turns on and lights up and starts playing the cd or radio but no sound goes to the speakers. Although thats not all, sometimes it will work, and then it will just stop, or it will work when ignition is on and then not work once the car has been started, and if i turn the ignition on one time and it doesnt work, then i turn the ignition off and on again a few times it will inevitably start to work again without touching anything. what is really confusing mw is the fact that it turns on but the speakers are getting the intermittent signal, i cant work out why that is so. All i did when i changed the speakers over was disconect the old ones and plug the new ones in, i didnt change anything at the harness only at the end of the speaker cable. any one got any ideas what might be happening because it has me stumped. Thanks, Tom.

bump

i'm looking to put a roll cage in my 77 260 and need to know if one from a 240 would fit. so the question here is, are the dimensions of the 240 the same as the 260? i'm not really interested to know about the 280 just 240 v 260. Thanks, Tom.

ok, thanks guys!!!!! that article is great and i will deffinatley have a closer look at the rotors before i decide on getting new discs. Cheers, Tom.

to 260det - i have the 14" stockies for the street and a set of 15X7's with racing rubber for the track. yes i have comp pads and yes i get to speeds that require the big brakes, thus the reason i need new ones because the old ones where not big enough. i wanted vented so that hopefully this time they wont warp. det if you know anyone is aus that sells something without a ridiculous price tag - i was quoted 680 for the 280zx upgrade that was mentioned - then if you could send me some details that would be great. btw. what rakes do you use? Tom.

the guy who sold me the stuff i bought suggested that i make a mounting plate of some kind out of mdf. trace the speaker outline onto it and then cut it out so that the speaker sits on some mdf (where the screws are the speaker has a mounting plate of some sort, the mdf should fit behind this to bring the speaker out from the door a bit) this will reduce vibration and allow more clearance in the doors because they aren't very thick - well not in the 260 they arent anyway, i've no experiance with a 280 but its a fair assumption that they are similar. hope that makes sense, Tom.

running a turbo motor without a turbo will get you NOWHERE!!!! turbo motors have low compression so that they can be force fed. take out the force feeding and the motor makes no compression and therefore no power. i know when the intercooler pipe blew off my dads supra and the turbo's stopped powering the engine it was akin to driving a 3000+ pound corolla..... NOT FUN!!!!! i suggest you try driving the car without the turbo's and see for yourself, then it'll probably be a good idea to re-install it all. why would you wont to buy a turbo motor and then not have a turbo car anyways???!!! i thought the whole point of going turbo was for more power not taking turbo's off, selling then to cover expenses and then have a gutless heap of metal. Tom.

you should be able to get better numbers efi than carbies, and better economy. carbie is generally used for that "era" feel or for people after a stock car or for racing catagories that require it. the 1gz-gte toyota motor is easier to fit than the 2gz-gte being, it being the first gen and slightly smaller, but they do both fit (saw a site but dont remember where). the 2gz makes a HUGE amount of power. dad has a supra, weighs 1500kg (over 3000 pounds) and it HAULS ***. makes about 380rwhp with jap turbos running 19 psi, standard intercooler and 3" highflow exhaust. he's got cams, injectors, us turbos, big brakes and then possibly a front mount all coming soon so i expect it'll be a HUGE amount of fun to drive when its all in. Tom.

i was specifically after the wiring diagram that he posted. i cant seem to make sense of why the zed motor has 6 wires and the honda only 5. just trying to figure out which is the 6 wire and why it is/nt needed. Tom.

The pics nismo280z posted dont work anymore, any chance anyone has a copy so i can do this istall myself? Cheers, Tom.

Gday everyone, i have a 260z and last time i was out racing gave the car a good workout and really killed the already slightly warped brakes, now it is quite noticable and so i need to do something about them. i believe the brake upgrade is from a hilux (toyota 4x4) but the rotors i currently have a solid so i am looking for a set that are vented and with 4-8 slots. only restriction is that they need to fit the calipers and that they need to fit in the 14" stock wheels on the car. anyone know what is available and how much i could expect to pay?! Thankyou, Tom.

Gday, i just had a rebuild done recently and i can tell you it wont be cheap. i am in australia so i cant really tell you what it would be but i suspect it wont be under $1000. the parts are cheap enough but its the time that the shop spends on pulling it apart and rebuilding it that is the killer. like i said i cant really give you a great approximation for price but just warning you that it probably wont be cheaper than a gran. Tom.