Tran Thach

I am the original owner of an 85 Turbo, CA Emissions, 5-speed, digital. I love this car, but for the last month, it’s been inoperable. The car starts and runs fine when cold, until it warms up, about 10 minutes, then suddenly dies. When I try to start it up again, it kicks over, then either immediately dies again, or sometimes sputters. I can slowly rev it up, but you can hear that something’s wrong. The engine stumbles, backfires, vacuum goes way down, etc. I can keep it going at about 1500 rpms, however, it dies quickly back at idle. I have checked/replaced the following: All vaccum lines. I have all new silicon tubing. No leaks. Perfect seals throughout the intake assembly. ECU Codes are all fine, but even so, I have checked/replaced many components: Crank Angle Sensor, Air Flow Meter, fuel regulator & temp sensor, CHTS, Ignition Coil and power transistor & Throttle Valve switch. I ran the AAC test according to the FSM and either the test is wrong or I’m doing something wrong, since it failed. I checked voltage going to the AAC, and that was fine, and I checked continuity on the valve. I double-checked the continuity from the AAC to the ECU harness. Even though everything checked out, I still replaced the entire AAC assembly, since I know that this is a critical component. No change, so I am confident the AAC is working. When I disconnect the AAC connector when the car is running, it stumbles and dies, so I know it’s working. I double-checked the EFI relay, even leaving it connected to a power source for 15 minutes to see if the relay faltered, but it’s good. I pulled the Air Regulator and it closed like it should when hooked up to 12 volts. I thought I had the problem solved when the Oxygen sensor failed the diagnostic, and I know this is a critical component. I replaced it with a new Bosch (fun getting it off!), test runs fine, but the problem remained the same. I hooked up a fuel pressure gauge and it always has a healthy 30 to 40 psi. Pressure goes up when vacuum hose is disconnected from the FPR, as it should. Also, the timing is spot-on. I have rewired all suspect electrical wires and replaced connectors that have cracked. I know it shouldn’t make a difference, but I even rewired the Fuel Injectors back to the way it was before the recall. So, by now I figured that maybe I have a faulty ECU. Steve Berman (300zxpartsforyou) had some tested ECUs for my car for year. I replaced it and same problem. I looked carefully at a ECU chart that was posted, and found that the stock ECU was listed as an ’84, even though the manufacture date on my car is 1/85. So I asked Steve if he had a working ’84 ECU, and he did. I tried that, and it still did the exact same thing. Very disappointing, but at least I have, what appears to be, 3 working ECUs. I am open to anybody’s suggestions, and will be forever grateful if someone comes up with something that leads to a solution. I figure that since the car runs so well when it’s cold, I don’t need to check for compression, but perhaps when things heat up, something may be expanding. Do you think I should run a compression check anyway? I would have to run the engine until it’s hot, then quickly remove all plugs and test before it cools down. ________________________ Bariatric Surgery forex robot reviews

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Im in the market for some fender flares for my s13 fastback. Ive been looking into some flares originally designed for the 240z car. Has anyone actually done this on their s13, or ever seen it done? Im interested in any pictures or information i can get. And yes, I have searched all over here and elsewhere, limited information _________________________ Bariatric Surgery forex robot reviews