mom'sZ
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Posts posted by mom'sZ
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here's a link to a thread where the bellhousing bolt sizes are discussed
http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=115555&highlight=engine+stand
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What type of sheet metal do you guys use for patch work? I need to make some small patches in my floorpan as well as the one on the hood. Also, what should I do with those front rad supports? Cut out the rust and weld in sheet? Thanks in advance for your help!
Go to the automotive paint supply house in your area. Look in the phone book if you don't know where one is around you, they're out there, every town with a bodyshop has one, but since they aren't really suppose to sell stuff to the general public they tend to not be right on the main drag. You are going to have to make friends with these guys anyhow. They usually have plain flat sheet metal for patching in easy to work with sizes like 2' x 3' or so. They generally carry some universal patch panels as well.
Rad support is basically a box section and a good canidate for sheet metal patch.
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Mario: If you read the SCCA GCRs, they actually describe using the 6 point attached to the lap harness points as acceptable. You sit on top of the sub belts. That is how mine are in my car and I can tell you, when you step hard on the brakes and your body weight shifts foward, you can feel that you're harnessed in, almost like a parachute harness or something.
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my brakes feel great as long as fluid is in the cylinder; however, i have heard of brakes going completely out, due to MC failure. reason i ask is im at school, where its harder to do work. also, how difficult is it to change the MC? thanks guys
It's not to tough to change out, shouldn't even need to jack up the car so this is something you could do in the parking lot at school if you had to. Point is though.... brakes are not something to dink around with!!!! you could hurt yourself or someone else. If the master goes dry, you will have no brakes, instantly! Even if you have to pay a shop to do it, don't drive the car until it is done.
That fluid is going somewhere. Here is a simple test. Pump the brakes up with three or four quick pumps, then stand on the pedal... hard as you can. Keeping pressure on the pedal, if there is a leak, you will feel the pedal slowly going down. It could be the back wheel cylinders or the master. I suspect if it was the wheel cylinders you would see it drolling down the back side of the tires by now.
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Mario: Link works for me but starter is listed as $34.98 plus ten buck core charge. I wonder if it's cheaper in Ariz (I'm in Florida) Still cheap but am I misssing something? I use stuff from Advanced all the time (not on the race car) and have ordered from them plenty (not a starter though) Get here super fast, no screw ups so far. Advanced is the main auto parts places around here. Bought out Discount.
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Ezzzzzz: fresh rebuild means all new bearings, new synchros and new seals. New tranny has 300 miles on it. Shifter bushings are brand new. Shifter is even brand new. (didn't have one) Gear oil is some kind of synthetic, I think valvoline. Thanks for the advise on doing the job. I have a ZX tranny at home disassembled so I'm sort of familiar with what it looks like inside. (Anybody wanna buy a disassembled ZX 5 speed? can't use it... class rules)
Jon: Definitly has some freeplay. Master and slave are (you guessed it) brand new (not even rebuilt... new) steel line new, flexable hose between steel line and slave braided SS also new. No leaks. That's what I'm saying, there really is no adjustment.
Thanks for advise guys. I'm still trying to figure out what I'm going to do. I have a spare 5 speed and spare 4 speed. Both are running used condition. Might try the synchro myself, might have a tranny guy friend help (he has a lift) might crate up and send back to orig. rebuilder. Ordered a couple of baulk rings already, seeing about gasket.
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OK I just talked to my parts guy and he said the syncronizer consists of a hub, a sleeve and a (usually brass) baulk ring. He said most people refer to the brass baulk ring as a synchro. Then this Baulk ring is what I need?
Also can confirm 1st - 4th uses the same part number part.
He suggested that I might want to check clutch operation. I had thought of doing this because the more I drive it the more I'm unhappy with how 4th engages, and how downshifting into 1st works.
But the system is so simply, how can it be out of adustment? I realize the pedal linkage is adjustable, but the hydralic system is what it is. If it isn't leaking fluid, what else could be wrong? The slave and master are new. PP and disc is less then 5K miles. Any suggestions?
Thanks for the help guys.
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Thanks Jon, great explaination. I just paid to have it rebuilt, I'm sure the guy would fix it for me, problem is he's in Tenn and I'm in Florida. Shipping is the killer.
First question... are all the sychros in the tranny the same? Do I need to replace all the sychros or just one for that gear (are there more then one?)
Anybody know anyone who is experienced with zcar trannys that's in the south Florida area?
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DrEaM: no, the clutch is the same one I was previously using with a 4 speed that was in the car
Jon: I was hoping you would reply. I guess I need to restate something. By power shifting I just meant shifting at higher RPMs but using the clutch and letting off the gas. I've never tried to do a clutchless shift or not let off the gas.
So... you think it sounds like a syncro? That's what I kind of thought to, but I know very little about a manual tranny. Can you tell me a little about what syncros are, what they do, how it works? I have a factory service manual. How hard is it to replace? (obviously the tranny has to come back out and be taken apart) Could I manage it myself or should it go back to the builder? Thanks
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I have a freshly rebuilt 5 speed (early 280z) installed in my car. When you upshift between 2nd and 3rd it grinds. It doesn't do it at first, when the tranny is probably not warmed up. It doesn't seem to do it when downshifting from 4th down to 3rd. If I don't rev the engine very high and I shift very carefully, it doesn't seem to do it. If I try to power shift it, it flat won't engage and horrible grinding ensues. Any ideas about what is wrong?
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It shouldn't be to hard to swap in the EFI stuff. The fuel injection harness is a whole separate harness from the rest of the car. Carefully remove it all in one piece. It hooks to the battery with a hot and ground to feed the ECU. Save the ECU, stepping resistors and AFM (including the bracket that it mounts on). You'll probably have to use the thermostat housing off the EFI car so you have the thermotime and watertemp sensors. And under the dash the harness hooks to the ignition module for RPMs. (automatics also have a WOT switch on the gas pedal)
Most guys wanna go the opposite way... swap thier EFI for carbs, and I usually try to talk them out of it. The stock EFI is a great system, simple and efficient.
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The starter will swap over between auto and manual trannys. The pedal box for an automatic has the bolt holes for the clutch pedal and if you have the brake and clutch pedal you can use the pedal box from the auto. You'll need the pivot bolt. I'm not sure it is possible to swap it into the car without removing the pedal box. To remove and reinstall the pedal box, you must remove the dash and drop the steering column. Sounds like a lot of work but it really isn't that bad, a few hours.
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Well here's a kick in the butt... after splitting the trans and engine, removing the flywheel and clutch, it appears the plug in the end of the oil galley was what was leaking.
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OK Jon, I got my slid hammer at the ready. The engine came back out last night. mustard-z, got those little rectangular seal things coming to, my guy asked about them. Thanks for the help
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Did he put assembly lube on it before installation? Maybe the lip got rolled over.
I think he said he wet it with oil.
Anyhow... that's what I need, folks to give some advice on how they do it. We've heard conflicting ideas on how it's suppose to be done. (installing the rear main seal that is) So... how do you do it? What has worked well for you?
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Tim: thanks for the data point, this is in fact a factory seal... and it does leak 'like a sieve'. When you installed it, did you notice it was too big? The engine builder said this one was tight going on.
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I just got done installing a rebuild and it leaks oil. It appears to be either the rear main seal or the pan gasket. I think it's the rear main seal. The pan is an arizonaZcar pan. My engine builder wanted to know if the brain trust here on hybridZ had any advice or tricks for installing the rear main seal. It's an N42 L28
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Jon:
I think there is no doubt that it would be better areodynamically to have a lexan window in there instead of nothing at all. I think a mirror mounted inside (out of the air flow) would also be better. I seem to recall a study being done by the state troopers in my state that found they used less gas running the A/C with the windows up then not running it with the windows down.
Only thing I'm wondering is would the speeds you obtain in an autoX be high enough (for long enough) to make a difference?
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I wouldn't be to quick to toss the stock 280z fuel injection in favor of carbs. The stock fuel injection is a good simple reliable system. Like any other part of a thirty year old car, it must be brought up to factory spec, but once done it will perform well for years with zero maintenance. First step is to replace every vacumn line on the system. Unless recently done, they are cracked, crusty and old. Second step is to disconnect every electrical connector on the fuel injection system and blow out with some electrical contact cleaner spray. The fuel injection wiring harness is a complete separate wiring harness from the rest of the car. There are only around a dozen connectors. Clean 'em up good. The connectors onto the actual fuel injector get crusty, but new replacement connectors are cheap, available and easy to splice in. Download the fuel injection 'bible' (search). It's the factory service manual for the fuel injection and it explains the whole system and give diagnoistic procedures. Go to atlantic Z car club web site and check out blues tips for modding and maintaining the system. (again search man search) Once the above is done, this system will perform nicely. Replace the stock air filter with a high flow cone filter, install your header, have the exhaust shop plumb a 2 1/2" pipe to a decent high flow muffler and done.
I wouldn't worry about a rear disc conversion, just get the stoack brakes working well. Replace the bushings in the suspension (or have them replaced by a reputable Zcar shop) and enjoy.
If you do decide to go carbs, PM me and I will buy the fuel injection manifold, throttle body and air flow meter from you.
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If you are pointing at the thermotime switch, that would only effect the mixture during start up / warm up. The water temp sensor on the other hand would screw up the mixture at all times. It's been my experience that when the temp sensor goes bad, the mixture goes full rich and the car will barely run and smokes like a dog. It (the water temp sensor) is cheap (15$) and available at any auto parts place. Replacing it is cheap easy diagnostics. My thermotime swith has been disconnected for months but I live in florida. All these comments are based on 280z 75 -78 stock fuel injection. Both sensors run into the fuel injection harness, a completely seperate harness from the rest of the wiring. It starts at the ECU, next to the drivers left foot, on the kickpanel. It runs through the firewall on the drivers side and up the inner fenderwell. It crosses from the fenderwell to the engine about where the strut tower is. It is the same harness that the fuel injectors are hooked to. Both those sensors are wired into that harness. The water temp gauge is the only other wire hooked in that area. It is a single wire connector which is on the end of the engine bay harness which comes through the firewall on the passenger side, runs up the passenger side fenderwell, through the core support, across the front of the core support, back through the core support, and back up the drivers side fenderwell.
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Hey NCchris:
This is just my humble opinion... but I would most definitly NOT cut out that toolbox area. That is an important structural part of the unibody. Now if you were to add subframe connectors, a roll cage and other stuff to reinforce the chassis, it would be less important, but unless I had a compelling reason to do so (like something else NEEDED to go there) I would leave it in. The best 'tub' cars use both the stock unistructure and the added cage members to build the most rigid platform.
O/T but are you the guy that bought those hosed lower front control arms from me?
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very VERY important! The wheel houses are one of the strongest parts of a unibody. Back in the day, I remember a friend 'triming' his wheel openings for tire clearance. (he said "they were rusty anyhow") Not long afterwards a good holeshot retired the car.
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Well mine are ground control, they bolt in (from the underside) and had no clearance issues with the hood but the adapter / sleeve / collar GC sent to make them work with my Konis allowed the struts to stick up enough that they (the struts) hit the hood. Another call or two to GC and they sent me some others that worked better.
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Hey I figured some of you turbo guys ect. might know this. Those silicone elbows, tubes that people use for intake systems, how flexible are they? I want to replace the one between the AFM and the TB and the one between the AFM and the filter. The AFM and TB are both just over 2 and a half inches (2 9/16") Will the silicone elbow stretch over that? or should I find some 2 and 3/4"? Thanks
Bleeding brakes with garden sprayer
in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis
Posted
A while back we were discussing a brake problem and the subject of bleeding brakes came up. A member here Ezzzzz told us how he used a garden sprayer to pressure bleed his brakes. Here's a link to the thread
http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=106464&highlight=pressure+bleed
Well, I just wanna say thanks to Ezzzzzz because I tried it last night and it works GREAT! I had completely drained the system, replaced master, calipers, discs, drums, lines and wheel cylinders. The system was completely empty. Went to Lowes, picked up a ten dollar garden sprayer, cut the wand off, presto... pressure bleeder.