iceman1

Further to this subject of using the OEM auto, I have had my project Z32/VH45DE car driving. The transmission had previously had no real work done to it by me since receiving it with the engine in a JDM front cut. All that was done was a filter and fluid change and torque converter recondition with heavy duty clutch lining fitted. The main transmission casing wasn't opened. Like this, the transmission lasted about 150 kms of careful shake down driving before it dropped 3rd and 4th (overdrive) gears. The driveline came out again as the installation is too tight to separate the engine and transmission in situ. The transmission was taken to a specialist for inspecting and found to be well worn and in need of a full recondition, costing circa $NZ 3.4K. The moral of the story here is that you have to remember that like the V8 engines they came with, these transmissions are 20 yrs old and if they haven't got 20 yrs of operation on them, they have at least been sitting around in a wreck or in a dismantlers yard in Japan for 15 years before a market was found for them in NZ and other countries in latter years. Auto transmissions are more delicate and complex than engines so need greater care and dedicated maintenance if they are to operate properly and reliably. I looked at a couple of other similiar transmission as possible replacements but they were both also well worn so there is no cheap way out. FYI, the RE4R03A in the 300ZXTT is the same model of transmission but is NOT a bolt in option for a VH45DE. The input shafts (into the torque converter) are shorter with the 300ZXTT. The only way they will possibly work is if the 300ZXTT transmission is stripped and the input shafts are swapped over or the complete transmission (with specific torque convertor) is used with an adaptor plate, like the manual conversions. I looked at alternative autos but was told that the RE4R03A is at least as good (strong) as the equivalent GM/Ford offerings of the era. Then there was the obvious manual conversion option but I was already heavily invested in the auto option in other areas so going with the recondition option was the way I went. At least I now know what I have. Enquiries made with gearbox specialists and Nissan in NZ have indicated that the series one manuals are pretty much impossible to get common failure synchro parts for now so the only other (Nissan) options if going manual is to get a series two (post 98) box or the Z33 6 speed for these conversions now. Bottom line is that if you are positive that you want the auto, factor in the recondition costs otherwise go manual but remember you also need all those extra bits from a donor car like a flywheel, clutch, prop shaft, pedal, master and slave cylinders, lines, interior trim pieces etc as well.

Sorry for the delay, not often on this site. Following link is to my build thread on V8Nissans. Mine is the only auto posted but there are plenty of other Z32/VH45DE conversions that may help you out. http://www.v8nissans.com/forums/showthread.php?414-Kiwi-Z-chassis-VH45-hybrid Cheers.

I'm in the process of a VH45DE with OEM auto now, going into a SWB Z32 chassis. I came to the same conclusion as you re using the auto, as it came with the front cut I picked up for the conversion anyway. (only 75000kms) I'm presently converting the auto to manumatic with paddle shifters and a HGM Compushift 2 trans controller. This should offer some tuneablity to the transmission as well as giving a degree of manualisation without the hassle of a full 5 or 6 speed conversion. I have already changed out the rear end to 3.67 ratio gears from the 4.08:1 OEM gearset in order to bring the drivetrain closer to the original 3.5:1 rear end ratio that the donor G50 sedan ran as standard. The advantage of 500 kgs less overall vehicle weight will be nice as well. The combination of OEM engine and trans and not having to worry about where a gear stick comes through the tunnel, has enabled me to push the entire drivetrain back as far as possible. Coupled with only a 13mm subframe drop, I'm able to close the factory hood which is a bit of a surprise with this chassis. The car was only just driveable on the OEM TCU/wiring before I started the Compushift wiring so no opinions on whether the excrcise is worth it yet. Presently having a few issues with getting the inhibitor switch wiring right but shouldn't be far away.