barbom143

We have some brakes!!!!! Do the pistons self adjust? I got them as tight as possible but they still need fine tuning. The adjustment on the piston only allows 90 degree turns. I couldn't get another quarter because then they would not slide back over the pads on install. There has to be some sort of self adjustment to take up slack as the pads wear. Does anyone know how to speed the process?

Too tired tonight to figure out how to post a picture. About 40-50% of the piston is above the bleed valve. Monday or Tuesday I will remove the calipers and bleed them with the valve at the top. Thanks, I will let you know what happens.

Toyota on front are on top, Maxima on rear are midpoint of caliper.

I have a 15/16 MC but what would I need to do to change it to set it up for rear disc? I have lenghtened the push rod to compensate for the change in m/c. Running out of stroke before moving enough fluid is the best description of how the pedel feels.

never heard of a reaction disk until today. I took my booster off and the metal part of the plunger came out but I couldn't find the disk in the housing. looking into where the metal plunger fits, I see "rubber" not medal. Is it possible that the disk is stuck in the indention and not to the plunger? I have another post Help! No Brakes with a full description of my problem. Any hep woul appreciated.

I am embarrassed to ask this question. First you learn "right to tight, left to loosen" then you learn about brakes, but I can't figure this out. 76 280 Z with LS1 and auto. Front brakes are Toyota 4 Runner four piston, rear are Maxima disc. After making the brake swap, I was unable to get any rear brakes and the front brakes would drag to the point that they would heat up and bind. I have tried to solve the problem by adding an adjustable proportional valve, removing the proportioning valve completely, bleeding the brakes, blowing out brake lines with air, bleeding both the master cylinder and calipers multiple times. Tried two different master cylinders (both rebuilt), changing the rear calipers twice and adjusted the master cylinder push rod All I have accomplished is making the front brakes not work at all but not improving the rear. When you push on the brake pedal, it feels like it depresses the master cylinder to the stop without building pressure. I am out of ideas.

I am in the process of putting vented Toyota brakes on the front of my 78 LS1. I have the S12W calipers. I have one side put together except for the retaining springs for the brake pads. I have one clip in place to hold the retaining pins that pass through the caliper and the pads but there is a second clip that has me baffled. It is shaped like a capital M. Can anyone help me on this?

Thats true if all gen 1 Z's are the same configuration under the dash. I have no idea. If there are enough minor changes that it would have to be engineered several times, then the equation changes. I was in business for myself for seven years and one of the things I learned is your business is either growing or dieing, there is nothing in between. Someday all the 55-57 Chevys and Mustangs are going to be junked or have air conditioning. Also, one post said people are not wlling to put a $1500 system in a $2000 car. I am working on my Z because I love the car. The fact that it was cheap was a bonus.

Yes he still has the 53 Stud. Like Mike, I want a system that will WORK. I have a pretty nice 78 2+2 I am taking some trim parts off of for my LS1 project. Its A/C blows really cold air out the center vents, really cold if your hand is in front of the vent. Anywhere else it is marginal at best. I don't need fan speed control or the hot/cold lever. Its turn it on high and accept whatever temp it can reduce the passenger compartment to. I want to be able to turn the fan off of high so I can hear something else while driving. As far as expecting Jack to answer our questions on line, I think he is too busy for that, Maybe if there was enough business coming our way he could get someone in the company. So far 191 viewings and only 4 or 5 people who are interested would indicate there isn't enough interest. What I am hoping is that when he sees how much room there is uinder the dash, he will realize all that has to be done is fabricate a piece to take the refrierant from the evaporator to the fire wall and a couple of brackets. With this I think there are a couple of his generic units that would quickly (if there is such a thing as quickly when working on a Z) bolt in and be ready to go.

I have known Jack Chisenhall for more years than I will admit. I am meeting with him this week to tour his plant and talk to him about a system to cool my LS1 project. If there is enough interest I will also talk to him about developing a bolt on system for Z's. Let me know what you think.

I did the swap today and I can answer the question. No they are not the same. The wire harness on the 78 is split in two. All of the wiring that comes form the multi switch is seperated from the loop that goes over the top of the dash. Exchanging the harness was not a problem and there were a few switches that had to be changed because the plugs were different.

My project car is a 76 with the typical cracks in the dash. I also have a 78 2+2 with a perfect dash. If I swap the dashes, will the harness be the same in each or will I need to take the harness out of each dash and put it back in the car it came out of. I am hoping someone can help me with this because the 78 is my daily driver while I LS1 the 76. I have a fear of getting it out of the 78 and installing the 76 dash only to find out the harness won't hook up and I have to walk to work while I strip thee two harnesses. I have a shop manuel for both years but trying to follow each wire in both books is beyond my ability to endure pain.

My plan is to take the crossmember to the welder, have him weld about an inch on each end, then cut out the old crossmember center section and finish the weld. That way is should keep the proper distance and angle to fit properly.

Thanks. Now I have to go lay under my car and get some dirt in my eyes.

VinhZXT, never mind. I just took my laptop out to the garage and looked at both the picture and my car and I see what you did. The only questio I have is, did you put any kind of spacer between the old bracket and the new cross bar before you welded it? Thanks again.

VinhZXT, thank you for the picture. It is exactly what I needed. Can you give me a measurement from the center of the large bolt on the lower arm to the bottom of the new cross member? That would sure save me a lot of trial and mostly error.

Believe me, I've looked at the Arizona Z site with lust but I can't afford both the parts and the divorce. Looks like it's the R200 coverplate. Thanks for the help.

Sometime in the mid 80's I read an article in a car mag about how John's Cars had developed a kit for putting a small block in a Z car. One day I was in Dallas and went by the shop and talked to John about the project. When I left I told myself someday I want to do that with a fuel injected small block. Someday happened yesterday. I started. Knowing myself, I have to do all the "Other stuff" before I put the LS1 in the car or I will never do the "other stuff". Last night I took out the R-200 to put in a LSD. The half shfts came out okay but when I went to the drive shaft I had two thoughts. First, I'm glad they don't tax "stupid" because then I would have to get a part time job to pay the tax. The second thought was that I need to tell my kids I'm sorry for sharing my genes with them. This is my long winded way of saying it did not go well. It took me an hour to find the secret path and touch the first bolt with a wrench. The wrong size I might add that rounded the nut. Since it took me another hour to get the !#% thing out, I figure that the completion date for this project may be another 20 years. I tell you all this in an attempt to make you laugh and maybe like me in my misery because: Once I got the unit on the ground next to the LSD, I saw how much the finned cover adds to the back. I remember reading two ways to solve this problem. First, use the plate off the non-LSD. Number two I can't remember. I know you guys are big on doing a search. I promise I did. For several hours but I could not find the second option. I figure that the added oil and the fins are there for a purpose so it would be better to keep them. Please help.