jimzdat

Drax, it's on the main page of search results--30 bux and it too can be yours Just my experience with this company--the owner (Ken Beard) is a damn nice guy-only had one problem, and he called me to let me know about it, and it was fixed ASAP-I would recommend him to anyone who wants decent service, and an honest opinion if you are about to do something stupid. Jim

BLKMGK-try www.rallylights.com -search for relays using his search engine--they show relays and holders-pretty sure he sells all hella stuff-I bought my H4 conversion from him, and he has reasonable prices and good service

You'd be surpised--I just shipped 2 bumpers off of my 280--total shipping came to 26 bux (including surcharge for oversize)-the key is to not go to those "mailbox" places--they add extra charges all over the place

I kinda figured they were going to be a little low (I think you're right Pete-about 6" should do it)-unfortunately, all the pics I could find online were for the 240, and here I am with a 280, and a 2+2 to boot--figured on a little trial and error

made em myself--the base is 4x4 angle, then a chunk of diamond plate bolted inside of it-the uprights are 3" C-channel, and I'm using galvanized steel pipe for the pivots-then the part that bolts to the car is more C-channel, and some 3x3 angle--the casters just happened to be laying around at work, along with all the steel and a welder; so I was able to make this one for fairly cheap

Well, mostly anyway--I need to move the pivots up in relation to the body--the car is too high up in the air, and it'll hit the roof if I try to flip it over--but it goes side to side just fine, and I can roll the whole shebang around my garage--now where in the heck did I leave that DA sander???

Dewzenol--just how much stuff is included in "accessories"? I'm just a few hours away, and if you really want to get rid of it that badly, I might be able to help you out (sometimes having a 1 ton pickup can come in real handy) Jim

I don't know if it got posted on the site or if it was just sent to the mailing list; but you can find Carl at: beck@becksystems.com , unless he's changed it Jim

Hey Craig--the link off of your site is dead (Earthlink 404 error)

Oil pressure gauges on the Z are kinda flaky and inaccurate-and slow to respond--if you have the wrong sending unit for the gauge, it won't read properly. If you have the time/talent, install a mechanical gage off of a tee fitting in the engine bay-lots more accurate An "old school" rule of thumb is 10 psi for every 1000 RPM-if you're running much less than that, I'd be worried

Well, I found the ones for the front, my .pdf copy of the manual is missing a few pages of the rear: 1st number is coupe, 2nd is 2+2 Number of turns: 9.5/8.5 Free length: 15.98"/15.71" Spring constant (lb/sq in): 103.0/115.4

well, crap--the pic didn't work (at least not for me)-don't know what I screwed up though. Anyway-just go here to check the pic if you want: http://home.earthlink.net/~jimzdat/cars.html Scroll to the bottom and you'll see it

OK-for the carbs I added a pic (I hope) I would also recommend trying to find the Haynes manual that covers Webers-it's not the greatest, but it does have a lot of good info. To adjust the valves, I could try and explain it here, but you'd be a lot better off with the Haynes for the Z-it has the procedure in it-be prepared to spend a hour or two doing it the first time, along with a lot of cussing and banged knuckles To properly tune a multi-carb setup-you need a synchronizer (common brand is a Uni-Syn) I found mine for about 35 bucks at a Volkswagen shop (bug owners like multi-carbs too) but you can also find em on ebay if you're patient

Hiya Mike--hopefully I can help a little If it starts overheating the easiest thing to do is change the thermostat -if it is stuck closed, you will overheat--and yes it was fine this morning, but I've seen crazier things happen. Easy way to check it is to pull the rad. cap (when cold) and start the engine-when it gets up to operating temp, you should see flow past the filler neck-if not, it's probably stuck Webers and fuel leaks seem to go hand in hand-mine have been seeping like that for some time, and no problems (yet) Scott of ZTherapy told me about www.piercemanifolds.com they are one of the few Weber distributors in the US-they do list rebuild kits for the DCOE's I notice the breather on top of the rocker cover is open-BAD IDEA-go to your local K&N supplier and get a little breather filter-they run around 15-20 bucks. That fitting used to have a hose going to the air cleaner, but since you don't have one... It may also be why you are getting oil running down the outside of the rocker cover (blow-by) The turbo oiler thingy, I'm not too sure about, I would hazard a guess that the next time you change the oil, take it apart and reseal everything--might fix it The carbs "blowing oil" is usually a sign of valves out of adjustment or sticking--double check all of them--mine also tended to do that if I had the idle mixture set too rich, which could be part of the problem too. You say it has white smoke? As long as there is no blue in it, it probably isn't oil-just a misadjustment on the carbs Hope this helps Jim

OK-Frank says he's done it-but his car is heading into the paint shop--anyone else out there that has welded up the side vents on their car? Mine is about ready to go up on the rotisserie, and I want to make sure it wont cause any problems if I make some of these mods--I also am going for the "smoothing" of the body (ie, no door handles, drip rails, chrome, etc) Is welding up those vents going to cause serious ventilation problems? Thanks

Just my .02--the glasspack system that MSA sells (is it still called "twice pipes"?) is a VERY obnoxious system--I had it on my car-L28, E31, 3xwebers, 460 lift cam--and if you wanted to have a conversation in the car, you had to have a megaphone. About a year ago I had a local shop make up a 2.5" pipe from the collector back ($100) and then hung a 4" Supertrapp ($80) on the end; I get a little of the infamous 2000 RPM resonance, but nothing too bad, and you can actually talk to your passengers without screaming. IMHO, the glasspack system is garbage, only for use if you want that wonderful Honduh-with-playing-cards-in-the-spokes-pretending-to-be-a-Cessna sound

Don't know if it's the same site you were thinking of--but I have always found this site to be pretty good: www.gas-turbines.com I wouldn't mind getting one of those boats myself... (Interests like these are the result of 10 years as a Gas Turbine Tech in Uncle Sam's canoe club, and my new occupation as a power plant operator-it's not my fault I'm insane ) Jim

Jamie--I have seen a couple of Northstar motors with "a funny noise"--first things you want to check are all the bearings (yes, I'm staing the obvious) but then look at the cam assembly; they had a problem for awhile with cams that would wear prematurely and cause odd noises Jim

And as for your other question, the red and green wires at that terminal block go to the transistor ignition unit--God only knows what they do once they get inside there

If I recall it was all metal (did they even have plastic tanks on imports back then?) I just went here: www.rockauto.com and looked up a radiator for a 77 cvcc 3bbl motor, and they run about 82 for A/T and 92 for M/T--might want to check them out FWIW RockAuto has fairly good prices on lots of stuff-I got a 38 gal rear tank for my truck for under 200 bucks shipping included--the site takes a while to load, but they have a real nice catalog interface

Scottie--the radiators in the old Honda CVCC Civics only went across half the car-considering what the overall width of the car was, you could probably fit 3 or 4 in there. I used to own a 77 CVCC wagon, and was surprised that little dinky thing actually cooled it--mioght be worth a shot

Another good site, with inexpensive master kits: www.engine2go.com

Hi Craig--if I get them or mine done first, I'll forward everything to you--BTW, since I'm starting on this project, hows it going with my '76 FSM? Jim

OOPS--guess an email would help huh? jimzdat@earthlink.net

Thanks, Chris--plans may or may not help--I'm actually thinking of mounting these nice 6" casters I got on it, so the whole thing is portable--I may have to change the layout of the "legs" so that the two ends dont try to go their separate ways once it's got weight on it--either that or a really low tie bar to hold em together Jim