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jimzdat

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Everything posted by jimzdat

  1. Hella Click on the product listing, then on "LED" at the top of the screen--they have a bunch of LED configurations--maybe it can be adapted to what you want?
  2. Here's another one for you, from www.rallylights.com
  3. If I remember right (no guarantees there), if you pull the wheel, there is a small hole in the face of the drum--use a screwdriver to turn the starwheel (just like most other brakes)--the only real difference with a Z is that you cant do it thru the backing plate
  4. Illumina==a model of strut cartridge manufactured by the Tokico(sp?) corporation-kinda pricey, but has adjustable valving so you can adjust your ride quality. Boge==Another manufacturer of struts/shocks; but I couldn't tell you much about quality or what they have to offer
  5. Thanks for catching that--maybe I should quit posting webpages at 2 in the morning Should be fixed now
  6. How about some of these lights? Hella NZ Not sure if they can ship to the states, but might be worth a shot
  7. OK, Don's pics are up for everyones viewing pleasure: DP351ZCAR pics Enjoy! Jim
  8. DP--I've got both a hi-speed hookup and a couple of spare websites--email me your pics, and I can get em posted for you. Use this address (not the one in my profile): jrarey@alleghenyenergy.com
  9. Absolutely! If that motor has a aluminum head, and uses a multi-layer-steel (MLS) head gasket, it requires a very finely machined surface on the head to ensure proper sealing. If it has an iron head (doubtful) you still need to get it surfaced. Resurfacing of the head gives you the "insurance" that you now KNOW that you have a good sealing surface, and will give you a hassle-free installation (or as hassle-free as a sideways little 4 banger can get)
  10. Well, I'm 6'8", and I can fit into a 2 seater Z, but my head rubs the headliner a little--all 4 of my Zs have been 2+2 models, so there is a little more headroom--legroom is pretty much the same, I prefer the extra clearance that can be obtained by using a aftermarket steering wheel, but it ain't too bad with the stocker either. Jim
  11. Recently helped a buddy install a Vortech kit on a 97 Chevy 3/4T truck w/vortec 350--The kit was well put together, but the instructions were a little confusing at times (it would say to use the supplied flanged pulley, but it was non-flanged) We did it during the week, so we were able to call their tech line and get answers fairly quickly. Overall, I think it was worth it, but I personally would drop the extra $$ for the "quiet" one--not sure what they change, but it's supposed to cut down the squeal a fair amount
  12. Another good source for the Uni-Syn device is your local VW shop--multi-Weber carb setups are popular for bug setups, and they sell all the tuning stuff for them. Just a thought so you don't have to wait on mail order
  13. Wagz--I don't know about the engine stand you've got, but mine is only a couple feet wide, and the rear wheels don't swivel--you get one on each end and the thing won't turn If you look at my home-made rotisserie, I made "bases" that are 4 feet wide, then used swivel casters under them, so I can go any direction I want. From what I've seen, you probably wouldn't want to follow my design to the letter, because the damn thnigs are heavy--I was just over-engineering things in an effort to be safe (and paranoid) Good Luck, Jim
  14. Hi Rick! Welcome to the forums. I'm still in the "gathering parts and tear apart my car stage" so I can't exactly answer the question; but was just wondering where in TN you are? Can't hurt to know where to get help/info/someone to help with stuff Jim
  15. Also try Webers I was able to order parts for my DCOEs from them--they have a pretty good parts section, with exploded view diagrams and everything. Also, make sure when you're searching that you only put one "b" in the name, otherwise you'll never find what you're looking for Jim
  16. I'm not sure if the 2+2 one allows the backseat or not--I'm intending to eliminate the rear seat anyway, so it wasn't an issue for me
  17. I just got my cage from Jeg's (they actually list one for the 2+2. Mine showed up with all the pieces, but their layout/instruction sheet is kinda lacking; namely since it wasn't there. I called and they faxed me a sheet that will supposedly help, but all it has is a small pic of the cage, and it says this diameter tubing is for primary stuff, this diameter is for everything else--I coulda saved myself 5 minutes out of my life by not bothering to call. We're gonna try and get installed within the next month or so, when it's done, I'll put up pics and opinions.
  18. That stuff just laughs at sandblasters--tried both aluminum oxide and ground glass--best bet is just use paint scrapers/utty knives/screwdrivers/explosives/etc... I found that in many areas, once I got going large sections would come up easily--just had to work hard in some areas
  19. I kinda figured that even with my feeble welding skills it would be cheaper to make one (it adds up to ~$78 US) just was wondering if it would work worth a darn
  20. quote Sorry, Jens; but the 914 was considered a mid-engine car, not rear-engine like the bug--it's engine was in front of the transaxle, right behind the passenger compartment; while the bug's was hanging on for dear life at the rear of the transaxle.
  21. I know that a lot of people have used the soid diff mounts, living with the noise and all, and a few out there have custom made their own solid straps, but I was scrweing around online and came across this one: Seems like it would work pretty well--it sells for $150 (Australian)-haven't figured out the exchange yet Any opinions/ideas?web page
  22. If the headlight bucket is installed, you should hardly be able to see the hardware--there are a couple of indentations in the bucket so you can access the screws, in fact. Maybe somebody has somehow "modified" the headlight bucket to make it easier to get to?
  23. No, Pete--they're not different; the first gen all go in the same way I think--the only difference I know of is the "buckets"-'glass or steel
  24. I figure since I've now owned 4 2+2's I can chime in here Yes, the main difference you will have to deal with is the length of driveshaft--other than that, there are no major drivetrain differences. If they laugh at you, tell em to stick it in their (your choice of bodily orifice here)! FWIW, I mainly like the 2+2 simply because at 6'8", it gives me a couple more inches headroom
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