s30zgt
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Posts posted by s30zgt
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Over the weekend I decided it was time to replace my destroyed dash with one a bit more complete i picked up.
After inspecting the new dash i realized there was quite a bit of rust on the metal frame (not really surprised, got it for cheap). My old dash was destroyed by the previous owner when he tried to remove the dash only to have the skin of the dash broken into 3 parts leaving the existing frame which is in good shape with no rust on it.
I have searched for a long time on various Z site about swapping dash frames and came up with little. Has anyone ever tried to remove the skin of one dash and move it to another frame? Would it be better to clean up the rust as best as I can, spray rust encapsulating primer and hope for the best. I feel a bit leery about bolting a rusty frame to a rust-less firewall.
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Something ive wondered about the Z32 caliper swap. What do you do in terms of proportioning. Is a proportioning valve needed to run these with stock drums or is the bias close to stock? Bigger master cylinder and booster needed as well? Im guessing that most that do this will probably pair this up with disk brakes on the rear as well and need a bigger master/booster. Ive read a lot of posts about toyo calipers/240sx rear caliper combos and not being able to set the bias correctly. im just wondering what is needed to get these working in a properly set up braking system.
I personally would like to run these with my stock drums since i have already spent some money getting the drums back in shape (aluminum drums relining, wheel cylinders, stainless steel brake lines).
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Yeah I looked at the diagram, started labeling and then got frustrated figuring out if the wire i was looking at was the blue with a red stripe or red with a blue stripe, etc, etc. Once I finish with the brakes I think I will try to get that dash in.
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Glad you were able to tackle that wiring harness. Its the one thing that been preventing me from installing my new dash. The guy i bought the car from snapped the dash that was in there into 3 parts. I was able to get my hands on another dash in good condition with the full wiring harness intact so im wondering if i should pull out the old wiring (the previous owner made it a complete mess) and put in the one from the new dash. The only thing is that i dont know if it is a good working harness (unsure how to test it, electronics seem so daunting). Congrats on getting it in there.
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Did that vid say it was a bored out l24? the text was a bit blurry and my japanese is a bit weak so i couldnt read the rest of the specs. I wonder how much power they were able to ring out of that block and if they are still using it. Last time i read up on this z it had changed a bit, g-nose, supposedly more power, etc. Definitely one of my top favorite Z's.
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Categorically, Goertz didn't have anything to say/do with the S30 and especially not the OSGTC24B1!!!
Haha i knew that the old Goertz myth would touch a nerve with someone. I know his involvement (or lack there of) has been well discussed and has been pretty much proved that he wasnt involved in the s30 project. Just saying that if there is something we need to know about Z's this is the place to get it. Well i know a TC24B1 head is pretty much a long shot but i am hoping to save enough to at least get one of OSG superb LSD.
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The amount of knowledge you guys have is humbling. Where most of us can usually tell where a part goes after it falls off of our cars and on to the driveway, you guys (the hybridz.org forum) could tell us its exact specifications, where it was made, the engineer who designed it, and whether or not Albrecht Goertz had a hand in it. Great thread. Well i hope to see the TC24 back and out on the track soon.
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Haha thanks Tony D, maybe i should have specified i was hoping to source them from a local manufacture. Is that the price people in japan pay for drums locally? Also thanks johnc, they were my backup plan if I couldnt snag a deal on some new old stock somewhere.
Back on topic though, why would OSG be hesitant to run a turbo on that head? From that old youtube clip Tony D posted they were running twin turbo setups back in the eighties so i am sure its not something they haven't worked with before.
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http://community.ratsun.net/topic/29318-l6-crossflow-cylinder-head/
came across this.....
heres a link to their blog
http://sato1511.blog40.fc2.com/
and a clip of that engine.
I also agree that the Z car culture is changing and these cars are getting more respect and value from the greater car community here in America. I hope to see more manufactures getting interested in developing parts for this car as interest in Japanese classics rises. I know i could use a place to get some new aluminum brake drums (Brembo are NLA and ebay ones need relining) and as one who love their Z car im willing to pay for quality (though it slows down the resto process, saving my money and trying to do it right the first time)
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While opinions on this swap are still up for debate, according to auto-otaku.com there is is already a shop in Japan swapping in two vr38 into a Z and a kenmeri skyline. It will be interesting to see what solutions they come up with for this engine install.
http://www.auto-otaku.com/home/2011/09/kenmeri-s30z-vr38dett.html
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Hello,
I have these six slot four lug mag wheels. I've done some research on them and they seem to be american dragmasters but the center caps that came with it say murretti and google comes up with nothing really when I look for that name. I like the look of them and want to continue to use them. I've read that they may have been magnesium or aluminum, is there a way you can tell and what precautions I may need to know when restoring them. Thank you for any info. Oh and if anyone has a murretti center cap, I am looking for one.
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@ Tony D
Thanks for the tip. I will definitely try to swing by that meet. I am also gonna pick up the ztherapy video just to see if i can get the carbs running smoothly myself. From what i have read all i need is a unisyn and colortune right? I know im still new to carbs but after seeing video tear downs and the exploded model of the SU's, it doesnt seem that difficult to tune. Or am I way over my head?
While i am not adverse to the idea of a custom tapered needle, it does sounds like an advance procedure and not something to go at ham-fisted. I am guessing if i were to go this route one of the specialty Z shops should be able to do it.
Really dodged a bullet by coming here first. Thanks again to everyone.
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@ Tony D
I finally got the time to try out the water bottle test you mentioned. I took the car out for a quick drive to get her to temp and when she was good and warm i took the water bottle and sprayed the throttle shafts. spraying either carb with water yielded the same result, no stumbling. Just to be sure i let the carbs dry and tried again but again no stumbling. While i know this is not the most thorough test, would this imply still good throttle bushings on the carbs and what would you suggest as the next course of action?
Having had a talk with the previous owner i learned that the engine was rebuilt about 2 years ago. Not sure if the carbs were included in that rebuild but surely if they were rebuilding the engine they would have taken a look at the carbs as well.
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@ Tony D
Thank you for all the great info. You have really helped me understand my carbs better. As soon as i get some free time i will break out my FSM and exploded view model for the carbs and try the method you suggested. I will update with the results.
I did notice that ZT carbs were much more than a simple rebuild and why they commanded a higher price than the carbs i found else where. I will have to clean up the engine bay if i go with those ZT's. It will look very out of place in there amongst the grimy parts.
My reasoning for sticking with the SU's is because of their ease of tuning, info is well documented, and soild performance...at least that is what i have read. Originally i had planned not to invest any money into the L24, thinking that it would be costly to repair, low ROI, and my money would be better saved for a engine swap (L28et,SR,or RB) but if it needs just a couple hundred bucks (knock on wood) to get the car back to stock running performance, thats a bargain. Plus it would be nice to have a cleaner running car in the mean time while i save up for rust repair, paint, and maybe an engine upgrade
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@tony D
I had researched and gone to Ztherapy's site many times before i posted this. That was one of the first places that google comes up when you search "240Z carb rebuild". While i do believe they would make a fantastic carb with improvements on the original design I was just making sure if there were any other avenues that were possible that a carb newbie wouldnt know about.Didnt know about keeping the originals, thought it was a straight exchange with their listing for a core charge.
The response i meant for SHO-Z link was really to show thanks and appreciation for his suggestion on possible useful information. I do want to stick with the SU's but learning about a different way doesnt hurt. I should have made that more clear in my response.
I am glad you pointed out that the pricing was a bit too high for the quote i got. Yes i do believe i asked the right people by coming here. On the Ztherapy carbs, I really can tell the faith you guys put in their work and the fact that they go through and tell you how the carbs work and what goes wrong is a big plus. They are still at the top of my list for carb suggestions.
I know the LA location is a bit vague. I reside in downtown El Segundo. If this were the 70's i could stroll down a few blocks and have Pete Brock and his crew at BRE do any work i needed. When I spoke to John Morton at JCCS last year he told me the shop used to be on Oregon st. Still wish that shop was here. He also told me that his favorite car was the Scarab and not the 510 that he is always pictured with. (useless trivia =P)
Thanks again to everyone for all their helpful advice. I really appreciate it.
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@ Tony D
Wasnt being dismissive. His suggestion is very much something i would be considering. As for LA Carb, I was referred to him by some hot rod and Porsche owners who had their carbs worked on (and it doesnt hurt that his shop is only a few blocks from my work). Having never been to any of these Z specialists and knowing no one personally who has worked with them, i went with the advice of the people i know and trust. Wouldnt you?
As for the "bringing them back to spec", your comment on how they wear out the bushing areas on the body and that toward the end of life they run lean and you have to richen them to run right is exactly what i was looking for. Knowing what is the cause of the problem and how to go about fixing them is more helpful than to just go and swap it out for new parts. That and saying that i would like to see if the stock ones are fixable is hardly "arguing the finer points".
Your comment has however helped me realize that i do know someone that has had work done at one of these specialty z shops on his 300zx. I have to ask him which one though.
@SHO-Z
Thanks man. I will definitely take a look at that post.
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I guess for that price the Ztherapy Carbs do make sense but seeing as these carbs have lasted this long on her, i would like to stick with the original equipment and see if i can bring them back to spec. Throwing out relatively good carbs seems like a waste.
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Hello. after re-evaluating my first repair option ( was gonna take care of the surface rust but was advised to take care of the carb in my other thread if i wasnt going to strip her down to bare metal) i decided to fix that instead. My friend, from whom i bought it from, told me that one of the carbs was running rich but having no prior experience with carbs i took her to a professional.
Tony from http://www.lacarb.com/ ( they offered a free troubleshooting and minor tune up) took a look at my carbs and verified that they were indeed running quite rich. He told me that my SU's were still in good shape and with a rebuild could be back to factory spec. He quoted me $625 for the rebuild and tune.
My questions are
1: Is this a fair price for a rebuild or highway robbery? I personally dont like having mechanics work on my car but having no experience on carbs i though a free diagnostic wouldnt hurt. This also leads into my next question.
2: Would it be cheaper to do it myself with a rebuild kit? Sure total of all the parts i need may be cheaper but i know the knowledge and experience is really what i am paying for by going to a professional.
Just list of the few problems i am experiencing with the carbs to help with this evaluation.
Running rich
Romping on gas backfires at higher RPM
Stickey throttle(although i have read that could be the throttle linkage and could be cleared up with some lithium grease)
high idle rpm around 1000-1500
thank you for your time and insight.
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Thanks again guys, specially palosfv3. The z community continues to amaze me with all the great enthusiasts and their wealth of knowledge. The only reason I wanted to tackle the rust is because while I do live in LA I happen to live about 10 mins walking distance from the beach and the thought of the sea air slowly eating away at my z is enough to keep me awake at night. I do plan to work on the carb and other minor things but the surface rust seemed to me to be the biggest glaring issue. I guess I might be buying a carb rebuid kit this weekend and not all the paint supplies haha.
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While i would love to strip the car down and get a completely new paint job, this was really just to stop or slow the spread of the rust until i can afford to have the whole car repainted. A band-aid if you will. Would sanding, metal treat, etching primer, reg primer and paint to protect the primer work as a temp fix?
@palosfv3
When you say the cowl is in worst shape are you referring to the paint finish or rust? From what i can tell the pic you posted looks to have been originally green sprayed with silver with rust stains along the edges and the grill openings or is that bare metal? From when i looked at the cowl this morning i saw no real signs of rust. Paint failure yes but no real rust.Thats not to say there couldnt be rust hinding under the paint.I will try to do a more through exam of it tonight.
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Thank you guys for all the info. Here are a few pics of the rust to help illustrate the problem.
@palosfv3
here are a few pics of the cowl panel. looks to be in good condition i think.
Does it still look like sandpaper would be sufficient over the abrasive disk?
also heres another quick question. My friend thinks that the paint on the roof may be salvageable. What do you think?
and here are a few miscellaneous pics
lucky number 7
color code was 903 not 115
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Hello
Long time lurker on this site recently turned Z owner here. Picked up a good condition 1971 240z last weekend and have been thinking about all the things I want to do to her. I knew that one of the biggest mistakes a person can make is by just rushing into things so I told myself that I needed to take it slow and do things right the first time. At the moment she is running and, besides a carb running a little rich, could easily be a daily driver but I want to first fix one of her flaws, the surface rust. I plan on having the car repainted later but I want to stop the rust from getting worse in the mean time.
Having spent the whole last week reading here(the search function has been my best friend), classiczcar, and many hotrod websites about rust repair and prevention, there seems to be so many different ways of doing it but I think I have a good idea on how to take care of the rust but could definitely use a second opinion. Links to products just incase anyone sees something that may have an adverse affect with something else.
Procedure:
1: Angle grinder with an Abrasive disk from 3M (http://www.shop3m.com/61500187564.html) to remove majority of the rust
2: Use navel jelly to remove remaining rust (http://www.loctiteproducts.com/p/s_trmt_naval/overview/Loctite-Naval-Jelly-Rust-Dissolver.htm) and rinse off with water dry with cloth.
3:Spray on Duplicolor primer (http://www.napaonline.com/Search/Detail.aspx?R=DC_DAP1689_0006445893), let cure
Barring that the procedure above is correct, I have a few questions.
Question 1:Should I use etching primer? I am a bit confused to its purpose. Ive read it has phosphoric acid in it so it protects against rust or that its a waste of money and that regular primer should be fine if the metal is prepped right. Is etching primer necessary?
Question2: Should I put a coat of paint to protect the primer? (The Z is color code 115 blue metallic so I would be using http://www.napaonline.com/Search/Detail.aspx?R=DC_BGM0539_0006528495 ) IIRC primer is porous so it could let in moisture which could start the rust all over again.
I will post pics of her soon and this weekends progress. Any suggestions will be helpful and I would rather be told I’m doing something wrong than pay for it later. Thank you for time and patience.
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Did a search for this and didnt find it posted. I know we can all appreciate CommonSnapper's fit and finish on his cars. Heres one of his latest creations.
http://ameblo.jp/khrono8473/page-1.html#main (about a third of the way down)
Enjoy
Dash skin swap
in Interior
Posted · Edited by s30zgt
Do you remember how many screws there were? Any adhesive connecting the skin to the frame?