s30zgt

On the brochure i posted above, the L24 they have listed runs a compression ratio of 10.5:1. Ive searched for more info on this engine and from what i read, they didnt release this engine due to tightening emissions regulation. Does anyone have any detailed info on this engine and how they were able to run 10.5:1 safely back in 70's? Was it ever released or even exist?

Ok great. One last question. I still have a lot more to research on this part but which camshaft would be better to use? The e88 cam, the mn47 cam or invest in a aftermarket cam? I know the e88 cam is externally oiled so if i used that one i would have to install a spray bar into the mn47. The mn47 cam was probably focused on lower rev range power and fuel economy so it probably not the right cam to use compaired to the e88 cam right? Thank you again for all the advice.

Yeah i wanted to use the MN47 since it was a high quench design for detonation resistance, had injector notches, and steel valve seats already installed so it would have most of the work done that i would need on my e88. My plan was to utilize the stock flat tops that come with the l24 block. Are you suggesting that i get custom pistons that have matched dish to decrease compression or a slight matched dome to increase compression?

Nice. You should see if he could arrange a group buy. I too also like the bolt-on coilover application and im sure there are many others that are willing to spend a little extra for high quality s30 specific parts.

Over the weekend this I pulled this MN47 off a 1984 Nissan Maxima. I have a 07/1971 240Z with a e88 head L24. Its in need of a rebuild and thinking that the e88 will need work anyway, I thought it might be a good idea to work with a head with a better starting point. I like the idea that i can use my SU's in the mean time and switch to O.E.R carbs or their Sports Injection ITB setup later down since it already has injector port notches. This is the first time I've pulled a L series head so while it looks good to me (no corrosion,no cracks) and i will be taking it to a machinist eventually, I was wondering if there are any glaring issues with this head. Here are a few pics of the head. Ive read as many MN47 threads as there are on hybridz, but most were about using them on a L28 block with flat top pistons and the resulting detonation, retard timing, and general issues with that combo but nothing about using them on a L24 block. Most of the info i could glean on using it on a L24 block is to eyebrowing the block or risk the valves self clearing themselves. This is kinda what im shooting for in terms of power on a safe and reliable engine. Im not too concerned about the power number but using it more as a personal benchmark. From the OZDAT engine utility, my compression ratio should be around 9.79 with a 39cc combustion chamber which is what ive read to be the size on the MN47. From the info Brapp posted, its better to run a lower compression ratio with full advance timing than it is to run a higher comp and have to run the timing retarded. From anyone experience, is 9.79 comp ratio as safe number to run the correct timing or will I experience pinging and have to retard on a MN47/L24 block combo? Thank you all for your help and insight.

A few people here have done it. plenty of people in japan have done it http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/93583-commonsnapper-3rotor-240z/ http://ameblo.jp/khrono8473/page-2.html#main cool but nothing new.

Since we have been talking about japanese coilovers, I remembered that rs-start also made some. Theirs I believe use ohlins coilover parts so maybe worth the price? http://www.rsstart.com/page.cgi?k=3 http://www.jdmlegends.com/?p=480

Ah ok, sorry to hear about that surfer.tech. Thanks for the info about those star road coilovers. My japanese is a bit rusty, is that the price for front and rear? They only show 2 in their picture. http://www.starroad.co.jp/home/2008/04/s30_3.html

Dapper lighting HID's with upgrades and extended cables $325 price dropped to $315 http://losangeles.craigslist.org/wst/pts/3768353443.html

Wow I didnt know about that with the Tein's. My friend had a set of their coilovers for his ek9 hatch for several years and we never had any issues of rust or failures, and this was back in Houston, TX where it rains every other day and is at a constant 100% humidity. That was back in the early 2000's so maybe their quality has gone down in recent years? Any part in particular where rust has been known to happen? Top hat? Spring? adjusters? All over haha? Ive never had any experience with Aragosta parts, though my other friend has a g35 with Top Secret's coilovers which i believe Aragosta supplies and he is pretty happy with them. He got them for around 3500.

Yeah i know most people feel that way but for those without those skills, its another option. Though at around 280000 yen (2814 usd) its about the same some off the shelf kits. http://www.tein.co.jp/spd/spd_search.cgi?id=130205-4S&lang=en

I did a search and didnt find anything on tein coilovers specific to the s30 model. Came across these while researching options for my suspension. Just wanted to share the info. Tein made to order info: http://www.tein.co.jp/e/products/spd.html reference data for completed orders: http://www.tein.co.jp/spd/spd_search.cgi?lang=en Protec Aragosta coilovers: http://www.protec-s20.co.jp/gtr/aragosta_s30.html With the yen artificially devalued, the dollar is a little bit stronger. so if you have the money...

ah my mistake. i will check that end of the harness and make sure nothing is grounding improperly.

Thanks guys for the suggestions. Domzs, the bypass was to simply plug the wires that go into the dimmer into each other. Those wires have to pass power through each other, either directly or through the rheostat, in order to power the lights on the gauges according to the wiring diagram. With those wire disconnected i have no other issues with any other lighting or fuses popping. That is a good trick Zinpieces. i will have to try that. We are talking minimal damage since the power is running through the lamp right? it was popping that 20a Parktail fuse in seconds. Just so i have this clear. According to the diagram on the fsm, power from the alternator flows (WR wire) through that 20a ParkTail fuse through the (GL wire) to the combination switch, then is bridged by turning the light switch to the 1 or 2 position, then flows on the (GW wire) to the rheostat (RL wire) to send power to the illumination lights on the gauges. Is this correct? And if so, wouldnt the issue be after the rheostat along the (RL wire)? Is it possible that the power is grounding around there and pulling more power through the Parktail fuse and causing it to blow? Thanks again for all the help.

Hello I recently reinstalled my dash and harness. I turned the car on and flipped the lights on. Headlight, tail lights, turn signals and side markers all worked but my dash had no light. When i turned the dimmer (rheostat) to high i heard what sounded like a sizzle and saw a puff of smoke through the dash. I immediately turned the car off and checked where the smoke had been coming from. Turned out that the rheostat had fried. Thinking it was just a bad rheostat, i read that it can be bypassed so i connected the wires together and turned the lights back on. This time the Park Tail fuse popped and once again i turned the car off. I went back over the wiring diagram, making sure no connection was loose or corroded on the dash harness. I also searched the web and took care of all the known issues like the turn signal grounding improperly and corroded side markers hoping that would take care of the issue. Once again the Park Tail fuse popped. Then i tried to isolate the problem by disconnecting all the exterior lighting (head,tail, turn, side markers and inspection light). This time when i turned the lights on it popped the fusible link on the starter. The previous owner swapped it out for one that uses 30a ATO fuses. I have a friend bringing a voltmeter this weekend to help find out where our problem lies but I want to know if you guys see any glaring issues that pop out at you? Could it be the voltage regulator? Maybe a bad ammeter? Any help would be appreciated. Thank you. oh and this is the lighting diagram im using in addition to the FSM diag. http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/wiringdiagrams/240z/1971_240z.gif

Also running a koyo rad I got from Ebay (i think it was ebay). Great fit and finish the only thing was it look like it may have been dropped by ups since one of the tabs was bent a little. Nothing a rubber mallet couldnt fix. No leaks or anything, and cooling right on the money with the oem nissan thermostat I also replaced. One thing I do have to do is get those rubber isolator mounts I believe JohnC had said in another post about aluminum radiators.

Nice Z man. I got the same 6 hole slotted mags, haven't seen many others. Always wondered how they would look on a dark gray Z. What size are yours? Mine are 14x5.5

http://www.kameariusa.com/

another quick question. Does anyone have any suggestions on what type of adhesive to use to bond the vinyl to the metal frame? This is what i was planning on using http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/3M-Industrial/Adhesives/Product/Catalog/Detail/?PC_7_RJH9U5230GJJ60IS8FSO6Q3GD3000000_nid=LF2HQTN0TTbeZ0RH29HR0Lgl . I know some glues can react with the plasicizers in the vinyl and this one says it is safe for vinyl. Has anyone used this product before?

I'm gonna look at it again over the weekend. I'm leaning more to just leaving it as it is as I dont know how much more adhesive I'm gonna encounter and risk doing what the original owner did and snap the dash skin. Would you guys recommend spraying over the rust converting primer with a rust preventive paint like rustoleum to protect the non rusty areas the rust converting primer doesn't convert? Also is there any possibility of fumes being given off by the paint filling the cabin on a hot day? ... I think I might have talked myself into just swapping the skins as the last thing i want is to poison myself with paint fumes, I got enough exhaust fumes as it is. If I end up cracking the skin I'll just get a full dash cap for the time being until i am ready for a full dash resto. For future reference, who has the best fitting dash cap? Ive seen a few msa one and they look good but i know there are a few other companies that make them.

Ran into a bit of a snag today. I had finished removing the dash harness and glove box but as soon as i removed the glove box i noticed that the dash skin vinyl was glued to the frame in several places. So should i go ahead and pull up the vinyl from its glued surface and swap the frame or what i have been doing prior which is sanding down the rust and spraying it with rust converting primer (http://www.krylon.com/products/rust_protector_rust_converting_primer/). Would pulling it up just accelerate the vinyl peeling away from the underlying foam? I should be able to reapply adhesive to keep the vinyl down on the new frame right?

Hey guys. Ive been doing a lot of thinking about how many screws to use to prevent cracking. Are the cracks happening due to where the frame screws to the dash skin and the flex forces are acting upon those points causing stress on the dash skin? Would distributing the forces more evenly across the dash skin alleviate some of the stress the dash takes? I am thinking if you use something like a hook and loop fastener (velcro) on places with the most surface area and only screwing the frame to the thickest parts of the dash skin would help. I know this is simply backyard engineering and would probably do more harm than good but would love some insight into this theory.

Heres a link to rocky auto's supercharged stroked l28. looks to be efi as well. Its in japanese but maybe the pics will help. http://www.rockyauto.co.jp/stock/detail.php?id=10922

Thank you guys for all the info. I will try to swap the frames this weekend. Now I wont have to worry about how I was going to swap the vin plate too. Ill try to document it for future reference.