Boy from Oz

I am starting on a 240Z - 250 GTO project and would like to have the exhausts exiting on either side, at the rear. To do this I am considering removing the spare tyre well. I have not had a flat tyre for years (famous last words) and figure that I could probably get away with a can of pressure pack puncture repair stuff it I did. I could just throw a spare in for the yearly registration inspections. Any thoughts? I could also fit a custom made alumium fuel tank.

Is there anyone in Australia who has installed a Holden Gen III (i.e LS1) in a 240Z? Has anyone researched it and given the idea away?

Sorry - seems I cannot post pics.

Chelle - re your wheel/tyre comments. I cannot recall the web site this pic came from but the setup is awesome.

Once again, great information, many thanks. Sorry for the delays in posting but we have 12-14 hours time difference. I had decided earlier to have the supplier fit the panels. He tells me he does 2-3 a year so I figure he knows the tricks. In fact I knew the guy thirty years ago when we both raced - he was an top fabricator then so I trust he still is. I'll take on the work from there. SpeedRacer are you anywhere near New York? I would love to see that car in the flesh. I've promised my wife to take her there next February for our wedding anniversary. Actually, I'm just trying to get in her 'good' book so I can proceed with this project! Still no donor car.

If I read you correctly, the clamshell type front solves hood alignment problems but lacks a degree of authenticity. I think I can accept that compromise. What exactly do you mean by "carefully check out the kit for fitment problems"? If your car pictured has an Alpha style nose, lights and grill then again I would be more than happy with moulds available in this country. Your car is simply sensational. I'm trying to research and address as many likely problems that I can before plunging into this project. One that has me concerned is the availability of Dayton wire wheels and adaptors - are they available new and how would I get on if I buy a donor car that has fitted non-standard brakes? (I'm keen to buy a car with a V8 already fitted which in all likelihood will have bigger discs all round).

Speedracer - thanks for the feedback. If I read you correctly, the clamshell type front solves hood alignment problems but lacks a degree of authenticity. I think I can accept that compromise. What exactly do you mean by "carefully check out the kit for fitment problems"? If your car pictured has an Alpha style nose, lights and grill then again I would be more than happy with moulds available in this country. Your car is simply sensational. I'm trying to research and address as many likely problems that I can before plunging into this project. One that has me concerned is the availability of Dayton wire wheels and adaptors - are they available new and how would I get on if I buy a donor car that has fitted non-standard brakes? (I'm keen to buy a car with a V8 already fitted which in all likelihood will have bigger discs all round).

Thanks for the information. Unfortunately I'm limited to kits by local suppliers. Importing kits to this country is just too expensive. I'm happy to read that there are no real design weaknesses in a one-piece front section. Finding a donor car is proving very difficult.

Hey, guess who couldn't tell the difference between a Ferrari 250 GTO and Cobra Daytona Coupe. That's where I got the idea of the higher tail. Not that I want one but are there Cobra Daytona Coupe kit available for 240/260Zs?

In reading various threads I have come across references to numerous 250 front panel configurations by various suppliers. The Kit I'm thinking of buying has the whole front bodywork tip forward like an E-Type Jaguar - the bonnet (hood) in integrated with the guards. Many of the pictures that are posted show a separate front-hinged bonnet. What are the pros and cons of these various configurations? I think there is only one supplier in this country but I'd be interested to know.

I went back to look at photos of GTOs (see link). Clearly they are the second most beautiful things on earth (wife is watching over my shoulder!). I'm happy that both the 'trunk' and 'hatch' type kits are good representations of the GTO shape. Can't think why I thought the tail was much higher - perhaps the camera angles. Now to find a donor car. Tell me, is all the fun in creating them or are they still a delight sitting finished in the garage and driving down the road? http://www.ultimatecarpage.com/frame.php?file=car.php&carnum=134

I think it has all been a matter of visual perception. The car I saw was lowered all round by 1.5 inches. When I stood behind it the rear spoiler did not appear to be much about my knee height (I'm near 6 foot). I think the 250 kit cars are often photographed with the camera low to the ground to accentuate the lines of the car and this perhaps gives the impression that the tail is higher. Is the car in the picture above lowered at all?

Gidday - After years of lusting after a 240Z - 250 GTO conversion I've decided to go for it. I designed and built my own single-seater racing cars thirty-five years ago but I haven't done anything like that for many years. I visited a local supplier to see a kit in the flesh for the first time and to put it mildly I'm in love. But nothing is perfect. This kit retains the 240Z rear hatch and it appears to me to make the vertical panel containing the tail-lights (whatever it's called) sit too low. I have noticed some rear shapes that incorporate a trunk, fixed rear window and relocate the filler cap. Are there significant overall body dimension differences between the two types of rears or is it merely cosmetics? Does either more closely match the real thing?