Boy from Oz

Okay, think I've got it. 'Frame rails' are the frame rails and 'connectors' imply the spot weld points where the frame rails are attached to the floorpan etc. Right? The rails on the car look to be in pretty good condition with just a few dents from shopping centre speed humps, etc. I guess such knocks may have damaged a few of the weld points but I will be able to see after the sandblasting when it's on the rotisserie. The stitch welding should address that problem. So provided there is no rust I should be okay. Although we both claim to speak English it is quite interesting just how many automotive items have different names in different countries. I think the Hannes manual list USA and English terms but down here we sometimes have our own third names for specific parts. Pronunciation is another thing - I was in New York a couple of months ago and I asked the barman for a beer, he wanted to know if I wanted a grizzly bear. True!

Just when I though I had it covered you guys come out with something new to me that sounds rather serious. This is going to sound dumb but what are subframe connectors? The name implies some kind of cross-bracing of the rails, am I right? Any photo would be appreciated. I tracked down jmortensen's post on his Bad Dog connectors but I just couldn't quite figure out the overall concept. It's probable a bit early in the morning down here!

Is there anything in particular I should do while it's on the rotisserie. I'm thinking of applying the thick stone guard stuff and paint, fuel lines, etc. It's a fairly standard build, i.e. no oil coolers. I'm also considering whether I should fit all the mechanical bits and run the car to check that it all goes together. Then stipping it down, do the body bits and paint and reassembling the mechanicals. Is all that process going to be worth it?

Hard to find the right forum for this but here goes. After much research I've decided to start from scratch - rotisserie, sand blasting, stitch welding and on and on. Can people tell me where they got things out of order. Things like, "wish I had built fuel cell frame before painting interior" or "regret I bought the wheels before I fitted the brakes" and so forth. I don't want to know how to do things, rather in what order they should be done. It's 3/72 240Z to be fitted with a 250 GTO body, an LS1, T56, Fuel Cell, Arizona Z race brakes, Dayton wire wheels and entire rewiring. Thanks

Can someone tell me the wheel sizes of the Dayton wire wheels used on the 250 GTO kits. Ideally from someone who actually has them on a car or fitted who them to a kit. I've contacted Dayton but the wheel sizes they quoted are at odds with some of the information I have heard.

I've decided to go the whole way - rotisserie, full-body sand blast, etc. I came to this decision mainly after I stopped and thought about the power to weight ratio of an LS1/2 240Z and what I subsequently see as a real need for seam welding. I understand the concept of seam welding and should be okay (distortion, etc.) but are there any particular issues or areas that I need to pay particular attention to on a '73 240Z? Thanks.

The RX7 looks like a good set up to overcome the ebrake issue but I'm a bit concerned that the piston area is too small to satisify the vehicle modification rules down here. The rules say you need to match the brakes on a production vehicle with similar power to weight ratio, e.g. Dodge Viper or a Ferrari 360. BTW there is a set of RX7 vented rotor rear calipers on e-bay starting at $9.99US if anyone is interested. My wrecker quoted me $90US each, today!

I'm now thinking of installing a separate ebrake caliper set-up on each rear rotor. They are a much smaller caliper and some are two-piece allowing you to space them to your rotor thickness. They could be mounted at 180 degrees from the hydraulic calipers without restricting heat dissipation too much. There are a few kits available from Hotrod shops. It means a bit of work making the support bracket/s but should allow me to use the vented rear rotors. Again any crtique of this concept would be much appreciated.

Sorry about not specifying rear brakes and thanks for the comments so far. If, as is said, other suppliers use spacers then they may not be an issue and it might work. My problem now is what calipers could I modify. Making a support bracket is not a problem for me, it's finding split calipers that are smaller than the Toyota 4x4 that will be on the front (for balance reasons - though I will use a proportioning valve) and will adapt to the ebrake cables on a 240Z. Would the Maxima (I think known as Skylines R31 & R32 down here) be suitable?

The brake catalogues here in Oz suggest that rear rotors for the 280 ZX are solid and 10mm thick. You may have different versions in the US. I was hoping to use 300ZX rotors on the rear of my 240Z (as per the front) with modified 280ZX calipers because of the handbrake (ebrake) capability and for uniformity. Has anyone ever spaced calipers for a wider rotor. I have concerns about issues like to coefficient of expansion of different materials and thus whether the whole concept is essentially flawed.

I see that 280ZX calipers are a popular disc brake conversion on early Zs. They appear to be limited to use with solid rotors (I think) around 10mm thick. Are they two-piece calipers that could have a 10mm spacer inserted (dowlled in necessary to avoid movement and drilled if necessary to make sure no brake fluid galleries were cut off) making them suitable for use with vented rotors? Or are they a floating type making all this academic?

I can't seem to find any photos of LS1 installations where a brace has been used across the strut towers. Do anyone have a pic? Is there room to fit one?

Mick - I thought that you were home and hosed otherwise I wouldn't have been so candid. Sorry about the sleepless nights. I haven't given up all hope of an LS1 as yet even though four engineers have so far knocked back coming on-board. They are either too busy (too much money to be made in heavy vehicles) or they tell me that 'it's not their thing'. However, there is some good news in all this. There is no bureaucratic review of the engineer's approval, that means that once the engineering signatory approves of an LS1 in principle it is only up to my workmanship to have it passed - there is no final RTA approval in the process, only the usual annual roadworthiness certificate. Sorry to bore all you non-Aussies with all this.

I think your weight figures may be wrong. Although I can find no official Nissan figures, I understand that a 240Z weighs 1044kg and a 260Z weighs 1068 or 1099Kg. Either way, the new national regs say that a vehicle under 1100kg can have a max capacity engine 4 times the original vehicle weight or 5 times if it weighs is over 1100kg. For a 240Z that's 1044 x 4 = 4176cc, way short of even 5.0ltrs. Have a good chat with the certifying engineer before you spend time and money. And again I state, these are now national rules - DOTARS web site

As from the 3 Feb 2006 there are national rules regulating vehicle modifications in Australia. Look up the Fed Govt DOTARS (Department of Transport and Regional Services) web site under 'transport' and then 'more' then 'vehicle safety standards'. All States must follow these national rules. "zed240au" is probably the lucky last to install an LS1. Even though a senior transport official told me that it is still up to the certifying engineer, I would want a legally binding contract with the engineer before I poured time and money into an LS1 conversion - you could left with an unregisterable vehicle. I am now considering either an Alloytech V6 plus six-speed (they are already appearing on e-bay) or destroking an LS1 - I'm still researching.

Thanks, good info. Just one more question. Does anyone know if the frame rails are hollow the whole length?

I posted this in another thread a few days ago but got replies. I would really appreciate some informed comments. I have just obtained a POR 15 brochure. It mentions an 'SW2 protective oil" something with properties similar to fish oil. I was wondering if anyone has used this to treat the inside of the two main channels of the floor pan, sills (rockers) or other hollow bits. Also, are the channels hollow the full length? I was thinking of drilling into them from inside the car at several points and spraying a protective oil, then welding patches over the holes. Is there easier access? I also wondered what technique would ensure that the oil travelled along the inside of the channel.

I have just obtained a POR 15 brochure. It mentions an 'SW2 protective oil" something with properties similar to fish oil. I was wondering if anyone has used this to treat the inside of the two main channels of the floor pan. Also, are the channels hollow the full length? I was thinking of drilling into them from inside the car at several points and spraying a protective oil, then welding patches over the holes. I also wondered what technique would ensure that the oil travelled along the inside of the channel.

It sounds reasonable that the horizontal floor area would be exposed to internal moisture over time, brought in on shoes on wet days, etc, but what about the transmission hump and the firewall?

I have seen several threads on this topic over time. My question is: "why remove it in the first place?" Is it just because owners want to go back to the bare metal or does it precipitate rust problems given time? Are there certain conditions that dictate you should remove it or conditions that say leave it alone. Thanks.

Does anyone have an idea as to the weight difference with a 250 GTO kit fitted. I know weight is lost with the removal of the front panels but I assume the new front compensates for that, plus the rear must add to an all up weight increase. Being fibreglass I guess kits may vary but any information would help.

Nitro D I have done a bit of research over the last few days. If I can get the RTA to accept that the original weighed 1068kg then I should be able to fit a 5.3ltr LS1. The 5300 has the same stroke but a smaller bore than the 5.7ltr. I know there is a lot of argument about this but the pistons and/or rings were pretty poor on LS1 so I would probably want to redo them before installing a second-hand engine anyway. It just means I will also have to re-sleeve. I am doing a 250 GTO project (must be a 2 seater) and I am very keen to use an all alloy engine as I think it will go with the character of the car. If you are looking for a 260Z there are very few 2-seaters around, nearly all were 2+2s.

I have read that Vortec 4800, 5300 and 6000 truck versions of the LS1 were manufactured. It said that the 4.8ltr and 6.0ltr were iron-block only while the 5.3ltr was both aluminium and iron. I will need to find out if any were imported into this country. I just wondered if they were significantly different from a standard 5.7ltr LS1. Does anyone know?

In my state in Oz there is a formula that limits the capacity of replacement engines. To fit a 5.7ltr LS1 to my 240Z (73), as planned, the original car must weigh 1175kg (2590lbs). Data I have says a 1970 240Z was 1044-1068kg (2301-2354lbs) but I have nothing for a 73 model. The Nissan plate has left the weight blank. Two request. Does anyone have official Nissan weights for a third month 73 240Z - I suspect they my vary slightly from country to country AND does anyone know if it is possible to destroke and/or reline an LS1 down to 5.2ltr - I think that is about 309cu. What a rule. Seems I cannot use a standard 300hp LS1 but I can install a heavier 600hp 5.0ltr.

I guess my initial request should have been addressed to anyone who has installed the LS1 in a right-hand drive 240Z. Is there anyone and if so any particular problems?