PETEW

Welcome to the forum. I am in the process of getting a turbo motor for my 280Z so I can keep up with you boosted guys. Enjoy the wealth of knowledge on this board, I know I have.

I think I found a donor car for my '77 280Z. A local guy is selling an entire '83 280ZXT (w/ only 89k mi) for $1000 obo. I figure this is a good route to take because I can use the motor and steal the front calipers and the rear disk brakes, and maybe some of the interior pieces (seats?). My question is, his car is an automatic, and I want to change it to a 5 speed. Do I need to swap electronics, or anything else for that matter? Were the '83 turbo LSD rears or are they still open? Also when I put the turbo motor and trans in do I need to use it's drive shaft or my 280Z driveshaft? Thanks for all the help. Pete

How can you tell if a transmission is a NA 5 speed or a Borg Warner 5 speed. I am putting in a turbo motor in my Z and I want to make sure I get a Borg Warner 5 speed. I know it has to be from a ZXT and that Camaro and Mustang trans' won't work. Is there some sort of marking or stamp on the transmission that will tell me it's a Brog Warner. Thanks for the help.

That was actually a question I was going to ask. If I do but the motor with the hydaulic lifters (P90a) can you just get the older P90 head and swap? I was thinking there was a little more to it than that. I sure would love to know this. After all I all ready know the '83 motor runs and drives and gets good boost. I just have to check compression and some odds and ends.

Thanks. He said that the "bad" hydraulic lifter thing has been overhyped. The main reason I am worried is because I want to get it in the 300-350 hp range. I just heard so many bad things about the lifters cracking under sustained high RPM and I was wondering if this is really true. He does use synthetic oil in his engine (Amsoil) but I can't say for the guy who owned it before him. What should the compression be for the Turbo engine be? I know that NA should be ~164-175 is the turbo the same? Thanks.

I have a guy who has a '83 turbo motor with an intercooler, and a performance ignition on it. It seems to run good, but I heard so many bad things about the Hydraulic lifters. He also has an '81 turbo motor with a rebuilt turbo, but the motor is on the floor and hasn't been run. Which of the two engines should I go for. They both have there positives and negatives. Both have complete harness and computers and will come with 5 speed. Let me know what you guys think. By the way he is asking the same price for both engines.

Thanks for the tips guy. I am going to take it easy and see how it comes out. If it doesn't seem like its working out, I'll quit and what for the tool. I think rolling it won't be too big a deal. I'll let you know after this weekend.

Thanks for all the helpful info guys. Fairlady, yes, I have a 280Z and it seems like it loves to squat. I haven't checked the wheels for offset yet, but they were popular with the Z's. They are the Western wheel Turbine wheels. They look ok on the car. New springs and struts are on order, but they will lower the car an inch, more cause for concern. I'll start the fenders this weekend, and let you know how they come out.

SCCA, What kind of hammer are you using when bending in the lip. Are you using a rubber mallet, normal hammer, or what. I think I am going to give it a shot. I figure if I take my time I can't booger it up too bad. Thanks.

I called Tire rack to get one of the fender rollers, so I can drive my car w/o rubbing the tires. The guy tells me there is a 3 month wait! All the BMW's are using it so they can get 255's up front and 285's in the rear. So what are the other options for a guy with minor body experience. I would love to see some after pics too. Does the baseball bat really work, or is using a rubber mallet better?? Thanks for the help guys.

I am wondering when I put a V8 in the car will I have to put Coilovers on. I have KYB struts, and Suspension Tech. springs. The springs claims they are 15% stiffer with 1' drop. I plan on going to a 15" or 16" wheel with a 225/50 tire size(I thought I read here that would fit ok), once the V8 is in. Will this work with the stock suspension, or do I have to go to Coilovers. Thanks for the help.

Thanks for the info Davy. So how did you do it? I think I will call tire rack and rent the roller. It seems like the easiest to do. I'm still concerned, though, that the wheels should't be bottoming like that in the first place. Is that normal? 215 really isn't that wide but being a 70 I'm sure doesn't help. Thanks for the info guys.

I am looking into a '83 turbo motor and trans but I have to find out what it will cost me in shipping. I am guessing about 500lbs for both complete.(?) I have to see what it will cost me in shipping but don't know who to use. UPS says 150 lb maximum on their sight. If anyone knows a good shipper let me know. Also, if you know what the engine and trans weigh that would be heldpful.

Hey Guys. I'm getting the car road worthy and took it out for a test ride (not too legal but oh well ) Here are some of the things I found. The clutch is beat. I thought maybe it had air in it because it engaged really high. Nope, when you try and launch it hard the clutch slips then grabs after heating up. The other thing I found is that the right rear wheel was bottoming out. I have stock suspension in the car right now and the tire size is 215/70-14 on the turbine rims. The right is hitting the lip. It seems to happen when launching the car hard or cornering hard. I know you can role the lip, but how?? Do you guys a hammer and a 2x4 or what? Also, should the wheels be bottoming like that, or that a sign of shot springs and struts? It doesn't seem to bounce when you push on either side. Any help would be appreciated. Other than that the car is a blast. With the new tires it handles awsome and has very good acceleration for an engine with 175K. Thanks for the help in advance

I thought the turbo inline six could be a quick motor. How much has to be changed to get it in the car. Are the motor and trans mounts the same. I know you need the computer and fuel controls, but what problems can come up. I know the 350 swap needs different mounts,trans tunnel widening, etc. Is the inline six turbo easier or just different? Thanks again.

I am just starting to go over the basics in my '77 280z and making sure it is ready for the added power I will be putting in it. My question is which swap is the easiest and most affordable. I know there is lots of info on the GM350 swap, and I would think the turbo inline 6 would be very easy. I'm guessing those are the easiest but which one is the easier to do initally. I know the 350 will make bigger power for less money, but I'm only looking for a low 13 or high 12 car after it is all said and done. I heard that the turbo motors can do that with out big money being put out. Is that really true? Give me your .02 cents. I be glad to take anyone's info. Thanks

I might be interested in the Nitrous. Obviously I would like to know which kit it is and whose kit it is. I also would need to know how much your trying to get for it. I don't know if you can ship a full bottle, either. Where are you located?

I have a '77 280 Z and when I replaced the front mount (what a pain )I noticed that there is a harmonic balancer. Is it necessary to have it on. I noticed in the JAG manual, when they tell you about the 3/16 cable strap to help keep the mount from ripping, the balancer is gone. I don't want to remove it if it really keeps the vibs down in the car. Thanks for the help.

I'm lost. The new Mustangs have 260hp and the Cobra's have 320 and they both use the Borg Warner t-5. I know we're talking about Camaro t-5's but what is so different about the Ford's that they can handle the power. I have seen ton of Mustang's running high 12's and no one said the trans was a problem. What gives??? Are they using a Tremec in Mustangs now? Pete

I have finally purchased my Z car. I drove all the way down to NC to get it and it was worth it(I live in PA)! My only concern is the rear wheel position. Both of the rear wheels are positioned foward on the car. It is a 1977 280Z with 215/70-14 tires on the back. I don't understand why they would not be centered, is that the way the cars were or is something maybe put together wrong? I looked at the frame and body and they are very straight. I have been looking at the suspension and wondering is something was put on backwards??? Please help me. I have pictures but don't know how to post them here. Other than that the car is in excellant shape. The body has some minor rust and the frame has only a little surface rust. The car made the 600mi trip back so that is also a good sign. Thanks for all the great help. Pete

I saw an add on ZCar.com and it says that it was posted by fairlady327. Guess he is selling the car. Too bad I didn't know about this earlier. I'm on my why to NC tomorrow to pick up my Z that I just bought I can't freakin wait! Pete

I am going to purchase a '77 280Z (it was advertised here by a guy named Brad) next week and I am trying to figure out were I should start. I bought the JTR manual and it looks like it will be a huge help. The car currently runs, but it just ran into a snag, I got an e-mail of the car losing some power and he is trying to figure out why. The body and frame are pretty solid and there is only minor rust. The frame rails are clean up till the firewall where there is some suface rust. I planned on sanding off the surface rust and POR-15 that. I was also going to make sure that any body rust would be taken care of. After that I wanted to do interior, then brakes and suspension and finally changing the engine and tranny. Now that it sounds like the engine is having problems I'm thinking I might have to do the engine and tranny first, and then body, brakes and suspension. Is there a preferred way to modify the Z. In the JTR book it sounds like they put in V8's with no mod's to anything else. Let me know what you've done or are doing.

I thought there was a site that had nicely grouped info on where to look for problem areas. I am getting ready to look at some cars and want to know what to look for, so I don't buy a basket case. I know frame rails are an issue and the battery tray can be a problem, but what else?? Any info for a web site or just advice from you guys would be much appreciated. I am looking at 260 and 280z, mostly due to the fact that they are cheaper than the 240's. Thanks.

I want to buy a Z and put a V8 in it. I'm not sure if it will be a Ford 302 or Chevy 350. I like the fact that the Chevy is so well documented, but the 302 seems like it would be fun for drag racing and some Autocross. I see lots of people using theirs for drag raccing, does anyone autocross or road race thiers? Anyway, I am looking to find out which car would be the easiest and least expensive to modify. I want a standard, does the tunnel have to be modified for 5 speeds? I'm thinking the later Z cars would be easier due to the fact that they have the R200 rear and will have disk brakes all around. Let me know what you guys think. I'm trying at making a balanced car between handling and power, not an all out drag racer. I like road racing alot (on the track not the streets) so keep this in mind. Let me know what kind of money I will have to come up with for such a project. I don't expect to do it all at once. Thanks for the help.

Hey guys, I saw a HKS intercooler for sale for $250. It is the complete set up with BOV and everything. It is a used unit, but are they any good. I was thinking of getting it, since a new one from HKS is around $850. Give me your .02 cents. Thanks.