PETEW

Here is the latest update on the turbo saga. I replaced the crappy wires on the car and checked the cap and rotor, both were actually new. I then started to check sensors. The TPS wasn't working right so we adjusted that. I also checked the O2 sensor and that seemed to be getting some weird readings. I bought a new one since I was going to rplace it anyway with the new downpipe. Well the changes still haven't cleaned it up. It runs better down low but it still needs some work. I will let you know how the fuel pressure testing goes. Pete P.S. Where are you guys getting your fuel pressure gauge, the ones I have been seeing are for schrader valves, or GM specific.

Congratulations Grayzee. Just remember, you have to be the one that is happy with the bike. Hopefully you don't have the mechanical difficulties that were mentioned. Mike, keep us up to date on what you decide. I think the ZX-12 is what the doctor ordered and if you can get one for under $11K out the door it sounds like a decent deal to me. Ride safe guys and always have fun.

Mike, If I were you (Just an opinion) I would look at the new Yamaha Fj1300 and also the Kawaski ZX12R. With your past racing history and you owning alot of faired bikes I think you would be disapointed with the naked bikes. People don't realize how much you are affected by the elements on these things. I would pick the ZX-12 over anything right now. All of the bike magazines are saying this is a much better bike, with all the changes they made, that can be toured and ridden hard. Not to mention 160RWHP stock!!! The dealerships all have them so I'm sure deals are to be had. I wouldn't wait, though, I'm sure the good reveiws will get them sold. If you are going more for the touring side than they are saying the Fj1300 is an awsome bike. Like I said just an opinion.

We'll I've tried adjusting the AFM and it didn't really do too much. I am going to get the fuel pressure gauge and see if the pressure is ok. I was thinking spark might be an issue too, but why would it work good under boost, but not at lower RPM's. I also checked compression again, just to make sure, and I am getting 140 on every cylinder. The engine is definitley good, I just need to figure out what is causign the initial stumble. Oh well, if I figure it out I will let you guys know. Thanks. Pete

So far I've looked into the EGR and looked at the timing. Stupid haynes manual tells you how to set timing for the '81 Turbo and the 82 and higher it just says see your dealer . We took the timing light to it and did just a little. It seems to be running better, but I have a feeling that the AFM needs to be adjusted, I also have a feeling that the FPR is not working right, I need to get a fuel pressure gauge for that. Thanks for the thought. Hopefully we'll figure it out. Pete

Hey Guys, I finally got to pick up the 280ZXT donar car today. I changed two injectors that were incorrect with the turbo injectors that Len supplied me with (thanks Len ) and put in a new set of NGK spark plugs. I started it up and it fired up right away. The car runs pretty good at idle, a little rough, but not a big deal. When you take the car out cold it runs very rough from idle to 3K RPM. It would back fire and jump until it got to a RPM it liked. All the backfires were early on in the exhaust. When the turbo has 0 pressure it starts to clean up, if you have boost it runs very good. When we got the car fully warmed up, that took forever (I'm guessing a bad thermostat), it seemed to run even better. It still would stumble at idle to 2K RPM, but once the turbo had 0 to positive pressure the car pulls nice. It doesn't seem to matter if you get on the gas smooth and easy or just mash it, it seems to stumble in the beginning. When the car is warm it does not backfire any longer, it just stumbles. If any of you have an idea of the problem would be give some ideas, and I'll start to look. We were thinking it might be the AFM or maybe a sensor that retards the ignittion for the turbo not working. Help Thanks guys.

I was thinking of putting in the SVO type right away if I couldn't find a couple of turbo Z injectors. I've been to the Junk Yard and no turbo's. My only concern is how rich is it going to run in stock form. I don't want to make a bad running car worse. I'm guessing I will have to mess with the AFM to get it to run decent, or will the system be able to adjust with the injector increase? If it can handle it then SVO is the way I'll go. Hey I just rhymed. Thanks for the help guys. PetW

Hey guys, does anyone have any extra stock injectors they could sell me? I am picking up my car and it has 2 non-turbo injectors which makes it run like crap. I don't want to buy new ones since the car won't be stock very long, and the injectors will be changed to larger Ford SVO type. I only need two so if anyone has some they don't want let me know and I will send you a check. Thanks. Pete W

I am in the process of getting all my parts together for my turbo build up in my '77 Z. So far I have '83 turbo engine (complete car running) NPR intercooler Scotties Downpipe (should get it next week) Urethane bushing kit ('77 280Z) Suspension Tech. springs ('77 280Z) KYB struts I am trying to get the rest of the parts for the enigne build up and just want to make sure I am doing the right thing. I have a lead on a '90 240sx Throttle body (that will be a 60mm right??) is there anything else I should ask for with it. Throttle cable, or any linkage? Or should I just go with a 300ZX TB? The non-turbos were 55mm,right? I am also trying to get a BOV from a 1st gen DSM (Talon). I am trying to get one for $45 with shipping. I asked for the flange as well. Is there anything else I need? I think the only thing I need to get yet is larger injectors, some intercooler piping and brackets, and a larger fuel pump, and I should be ready. If I am missing something or you have opinions on my build up, please let me know. Thanks for all your time and help guys. Pete

Travis, I am doing the same thing you are doing. I wanted to make a quick car with the least amount of hassle and money possible. I figure as I want to go faster I can modify it more. I got an entire turbo car, running, for $700. That way I have everything, including the rear with the stronger cv's and rear disk brakes. I also can make sure the engine is running well before I put it in my car. If it doesn't run well after the switch, I'll know it isn't major. For about $250 you can get a NPR intercooler, then about $300 for plumbing and welding, etc. You can get Merkur inj then for $80 (total) and a cheap manual boost adj (~$40). After that you should stay entertained. Hope this helps. Pete

Thanks for the answers guys. I saw the mod page that Scottie has. I just wasn't sure if that was on a stock fuel rail or a modified version of it. Now that I know I am on my way to making more power. SleeperZ you have mail.

Thanks for the reply scottie. Here is another dumb question, though. Will the SVO injectors fit in the stock fuel rail, I thought someone said that you had to have a custom one for the injectors. I hope that isn't true. What do the SVO injectors cost, by the way? Thanks for all your help guys. I can't wait to get the motor in my car.

Hello, Anybody. Need some help over here If you have a couple stock injectors or thoughts on if I can use bigger injectors with everything else relatively stock (only for a short time)then let me know. Thanks

I finally bought the '83 turbo car to put the motor in my '77 280Z. My question is since two of the injectors are bad (wrong injectors) what should I do. I know that I will putting on a intercooler (ordered my NPR from Scottie) and I will buy a 2.5" downpipe and 3" exhaust. I will also put on an electronic boost controler (opinions??). My question is should I just upgrade to the SVO/Merkur injector right away. I don't plan on doing everything at once but why spend the money on injectors I have to pull in the near future. Will SVO injectors cause me problems when the car is stock? If anyone has 2 stock turbo injectors, cheap, I would buy them. Let me know guys. Thanks.

Well guys, I think I am going to get the car. The guy agreed to sell it to me for $700. I want to get two injectors for it so I can change them and hopefully drive it home. Any one got two used injectors they want to sell? Thanks for all the help.

quote: Originally posted by Evan Purple240zt: Whats ambient temp when the car is idling funny? I wonder if the cold start is somehow messed up too. Evan[/QB] I was actually thinking the same thing. It seems to smooth out as the car was warming up (we didn't get it up to full temp). When we drove it, it was around 40 deg outside. So it could be the cold start (but I heard that there are 3 things that control cold running ) When boost was up the car ran good, and pulled hard (when cold). My buddy checked compression on two cylinders while we were there and they both tested out fine. Hopefully it is just a combination of the injectors and a sensor. Anymore ideas keep shooting them my way, it's always better using a thousand heads rather than one.

Thanks for the reply. I am pretty sure all the injectors are firing, though. The car runs rough when cold, but if you get on the gas hard enough that the turbo boosts up it seems to smooth everthing out. That is why I'm not sure changing the injectors will do it. If anyone has an idea, or had a similar problem please help. Last thing I want to do is buy the car and find major problems with the motor. Unfortunatley, my pockets aren't so deep. Thanks for all the help guys.

I am bickering with a guy over a '83 ZXT that he has for sale. The engine runs and drives (not inspected) but it runs rough. It does get better as it warms up, so I am confused. He said that its the 2 injectors that he put in, if I switch them it will run fine. I did notice that one of the injectors is a non-turbo injector (green body) the other I am not sure (it has a white body). I am hoping that running the wrong injectors won't cause more problems because of lack of fuel. Could the rough cold running be because of the wrong injector or is it something else like the AFM, or one of the million other hookups to the fuel rail. Please help. He is asking $800 so I am hoping to get a good deal. Thanks.

You guys say that getting to 400rwhp is very expensive. I was wondering how much do you think it costs to get to a 300 rwhp motor. Can you keep the stock ECM at this level? The reason I am asking is that I have a choice of a '82 turbo motor and 5 speed or a '86 mustang 302 w/ 5 speed. Both are around the same price so which one is the more inexpensive. The turbo motor is the easier initial swap (which is big benefit in my eyes) but I'm guessing the 302 has easier and less costly HP potential. I want to use the car for some autocross and some drag (both for fun), so that also has to have some bearing in my choice. Thanks for the help guys.

I sent you an e-mail but you haven't gotten back to me. What are looking to get for the engine and tranny. What year motor is it? Give us some details.

Thanks for the reply SCCA. I have been on your site a few times. I like the look of the mounts, but I wish I could find some drawings. If I had them, I could take them to a metal fabricator, and get the job done right. I figure this '85 motor will be a good start since it is the roller design with ease of 4 bbl carb. I like injection but just more to do. I've been through the search area a bunch of times for mount pictures. I like the fact the motor is so light and will make a balanced car. If any one has drawings of the mount system they used I would love a copy. My dream is to make a car that can autocross all day then go to the drags at night and do a high 12 low 13 time. Thanks again. Pete

I know no one is producing motor mounts for Ford motors, yet. I am going back and forth between a turbo 6 from a 280ZX and a 302 mustang motor. There is a guy locally who has a '85 302 with the 5 speed for $600. The engine was rebuilt recently and was in a car until 4 months ago. I would go the Ford route but lack of a mounting system has me a little worried. I am trying to make a car the will autocross nicely and be decent in the drags, as well. 302 seems like an obvious choice to me but after doing a search and hearing about how much work it takes and there being no set instructions or mounts I may have to pass the engine up. Let me know what you guys think. Is the Ford conversion really that hard, or is it being blown out of proportion. Thanks for the help guys.

I'm looking to make a balanced car for autocrossing and for drag racing. I was thinking that the turbo was the way to go, but now I'm not so sure. The V8 would be nice but to make it a balnced project means a lot of money. I am thinking of trying to get a car in the high 12's in the quarter mile and a some what competitive autocrossing car. I am afraid that the turbo will be hard to handle with the boos tcoming on in the corners. Let me know what you think. Thanks. Pete

Man oh man do I love burnouts. I am 30 yrs old but act like 12 when I see somone roasting them. Scottie, that car freakin flies. I would love to have a car that spanks others like it. I can't wait to get my car on the track. WE WANT MORE BURNOUTS.

That is one great looking car. I have a '77 Z that I am in the process of getting ready. I am getting ready to pull the motor and trans. After that it is pull all the suspension off put in the poly bushings in and new springs and struts and paint the entire bottom w/ POR-15. Then it goes to get painted and have a V8 or turbo motor put in. I love the entire car. Which front lower valence is that. I think I am going to do the same thing, with fiberglass front and rear bumpers to complete the look. Awsome car. I am very jealous.