American

Like most of us type A personalities here, I'm a bit of a control freak especially when it comes to my toys. However, you are probably right, Cali is the place to buy these cars as it seems, from my research, that they are cleaner and cheaper by far than here in Texas... or most other places for that matter. I might be open to letting someone here do some shopping for me but I'm not to hip on drivng all the way out there to trailer something back. I wonder how much it would cost to ship a car to Texas?

And that's pretty much what I told him. This guy started out wanting 1750.00 then 1500.00 from the ads I found. When I got there he says the first 750.00 takes it..... he's gonna be waiting awhile. Then he tells me that he's going to move it by the end of this month....um, sure you are. It would be easiest to tell you what is NOT rusted on this car. There ..done. Frame rails looked good, even after poking around on them. Roof looks like someone bombed it with watermelons, normal rust in the fenders (actually the front driver fender may be ok), hood paint is cracked all over, surface rust, floor boards are... non existent, glass is good. Engine and trans are in the back... couple of radiators.... you get the idea. I told him to call me when he wants it moved. I'll take it for parts.... just hope I don't need too many from it.

I'll revisit those sites and try to make some contacts, thanks for the info. This car is not what I really want to use, I'm really thinking it will make a parts car if I can pick it up for a few hundred dollars.

I'm going to take a look at it today regardless, who knows, it might be cleaner than I think. If it's cheap enough I may buy it anyway for spares. I'm in no hurry but they are certainly hard to find without rust, even here in Texas.

Well... found a local 72 240, going to look at it in a bit. This guys wife 'wants it out of the way' so it may be had fairly cheap. It's been converted to a rear engine Z Only thing that concerns me at this point, other than no title, is he says the roof has some dents it. I guess those can be worked out easy enought by a good bodyman though. Supposedly has the normal rust in the quarters. I'll have to check the frame rails, battery area and floorboards of course. I'll take some good close up pics when I'm there. Any comments?

50sf rolls are now selling for 55.00 on Ebay http://cgi.ebay.com/50-SQUARE-FEET-PREMIUM-SOUND-DEADENER-w-Dynamat-sample_W0QQitemZ5802562259QQcategoryZ67760QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

If it's cast iron it is probably cracked in one of the two center exhaust seats. IF that is the case AND the crack does not extend out of the valve seat then you can simply cut the seat and install a new seat. If the crack extends out of the seat orinto the water jacket then you are looking at welding. I'm not too hip on welded seats but it can be done. If it's cracked in the center of the head in between the two center bolt holes then I'd scrap it. You typically only see this on SB 400 heads because of the steam holes.

I'd suggest reading these articles regarding CFM vs engine displacement. http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles/56919/ http://www.streetandstripmotorsports.com/charts_guides/charts_carb.htm Some decent Holley tuning tips: http://www.mortec.com/carbtip1.htm This chart & CFM calculator gives CFM based on 100% VE (which is impossible, 80% is a better guideline) but gives you some guidelines. As the article states above this is not totally accurate but will put you in the ballpark. http://www.buicks.net/shop/reference/carb_cfm.htm Hope these will help at least a little.

Me either, that's why I was wondering what your setup is, just noticed the steam holes in the heads and assumed.... Any time I built strokers I usually went with the 350 block and cut 400 crank but for this project I want a larger bore and shorter stroke.. .oversquare, more revs. Very nice setup.

I see you went with the 400 block and 350 crank and spacers, drilled the steam holes in the heads..etc. Your dyno charts are too small to read in your Yahoo album, mind posting a larger version here or somewhere? Specs on your engine?

I agree wholeheartedly. I learned the very same thing on past projects. Here is how I see this going: 1. Research - this is where I am now, figuring the the GENERAL direction I want to go with this. 2. Vehicle Aquisition - taking my time to find a good clean 240. 3. Tear Down - tear down and inspection, ascertain fundamental repairs and start the stripping process. 4. Repairs - repair any frame/body issues, deal with frame rails/connectors and fabrication. Those things have to happen before I so much as buy the JTR kit. Then I'll move into the second phase of undercarriage coatings, kit, dif and suspension installation, drivetrain/engine then paint and interior, etc. I'm a pretty methodical type so unless I run into some smokin deal on something I KNOW I will need I won't be buying any parts in the immediate future. Having said that, I don't care to think about the times I bought items I 'knew' I would need only to go a different direction and either eating or taking a loss on parts I ended up not needing. Been there, have the Tshirt. I really appreciate everyone's input.. keep it coming.. I'm a sponge!

Pete, Thanks for the reply. I have already visited your site and intend to read over it in detail. You touched on the two things that concern me most. Cooling and driveline vibration. I have fought the cooling issues in my small block conversions (Jeep and Vega) and know how difficult it can be, especially on high HP engines, to keep them cool. I will be looking very hard at that option and is why I stated such a high price for radiator/fans in my first post. Driveline vibration just bugs the crap out of me and is something I've been trying to read up on here. Your info is greatly appreciated and you can bet I will heed your advice. Even if I find a 240 project car today I doubt I will be starting on it any time real soon, not until we sell our home (it's on the market now) and move into one with a shop. This thread is basically my research, listing parts, getting advice, collecting information from other posts. I will probably start a site on my server to in order to document all of this data in detail (I'm a research nut) before I so much as turn a wrench. There will be plenty of stripping and body repair long before I start bolting on parts I'm sure. Thanks,

I have bookmarks for those and others: http://www.tvmadeez.com http://www.baddogparts.com http://www.datsunzparts.com http://www.arizonazcar.com http://www.betamotorsports.com http://www.zbarn.com http://classicdatsun.com I know some of the prices I have quoted may be on the high side, some are not, but when budgeting you ALWAYS end up spending more than you think as evidenced by my post above. KBB doesn't search far enough back even though it lists the 240z in its selection of models to search for. I think it hits around the mid 80's.

MOVED LIST TO FIRST POST. Well, how about I start laying out a parts list here? I'm going to use this as a running list and edit accordingly as I go.

If that's the case then I need to look real hard at one already built as they are even found in the classifieds here for 10-12k and while I don't want to build one just to sell it I don't like being in that bad of an equity position either when it comes to toys. In my 37 years I have built and owned many a vehicle, 55-57 Chevys to race cars to 4x4's and motorcycles, having spent over 10 years in the engine biz will do that to you. I still have excellent contacts in the engine/auto parts business and do consulting work for the gentleman that owned the engine/gasket stores and things like engines, wheels/tires..etc will cost me much less than the average person. (can I post a wanted ad yet?)

Being from Abilene I know what you mean. But living here in Dallas it's a different story. It won't be so much a matter of finding one but rather finding the right one. Here's a local 240.. hurt puppy: http://dallas.craigslist.org/pts/92683365.html

This will be a long term project for sure, no weekend swapout by any means. I intend to put a roll bar in, different seats (Mastercraft or Recaro, etc), harnesses, full Autometer instrumentation, tie in the frame rails, Wilwood brakes, coil overs, control arms, fender flares..etc. I'd like to have A/C working but that is secondary. It will be blue with white stripe(s) and black interior. I'm shooting for 450+hp, most likely go with 400+ cubes, Edelbrock heads some sort of FI and a 700R4. I have been reading like crazy and await the JTR manual to arrive. I am pleasantly surprised that most parts are fairly reasonable. This car will end up costing me between 15-20k not counting my time but the end result will be a world class performer. I love the AZ and Modern Motorsports parts and will have to make some decisions in regards to exact parts, but I have plenty of time for that. I too like the 240's best and that's what I intend to go with. Now, if I could just post a Wanted ad here so I can start the hunt for a clean 240....

Good stuff all. This is going to be a 'pro touring' type car, not for drag racing per se. I've always been partial to the 240 but I'm not sure it will make that big of difference because as you say, the car is going to be so heavily modified and reinforced regardless. I'm on the lookout for a good clean 240 roller. On the other hand, I'd be pretty happy to trade my V8 Jeep for a hybrid Z already built too. Went ahead an ordered the JTR manual tonight as well.

Thanks for the info guys. I have been reading this forum for a few days and been doing some searching but I really never read anything that pointed me towards a specific model (240-260-280). Once I decide on the model then I can start planning from there. I was in the engine biz for 10+ years and have had my share of hot rods and hybrids of various makes so I'm not totally green. But when it comes to Z hybrids I am a lost ball in the weeds. My goal like most others is light weight, balance, good suspension and brakes and of course mucho HP. I'll appreciate any pointers and will keep reading and reading before I start this project.

New guy here. Started doing some reading on the boards but thought I'd ask something first. Looking to build a SBC hybrid, was focused on a 70-73 Trans Am or Camaro but prices are out of this world for junk. I've always liked the 240 but which is the best model to build a hybrid out of? I'm going with aftermarket brakes and suspension too but am more curious about engine bay space, frame strength and overall ease of conversion. I intend to go with some aluminum heads on a 350-406 SBC and possibly a 700R4. I have moved my running list of parts from the post below: Exterior: 280Zone Hood: 435.00 MSA Flares (F): 116.95 MSA Flares ®: 116.95 MSA CF BRE Spoiler: 250.00 MSA CF Front Bumper: 259.95 MSA CF Rear Bumper: 259.95 or MSA Fiberglass Air Dam w/bumper (F): 160.00 MSA Fiberglass Rear Bumper: 149.95 Paint: Interior: AutoMeter Gauges: 700.00 Seats: 4-500 each with mounts Pedals: 40-100.00 Steering Wheel: Harnesses: 300.00 Roll Bar w/pad: 360.00 Carpet: Panels/plastic/dash: Sound System (gotta have tunes): Suspension: AZ Coil Over Kit with Camber Plates: 1200.00 Shocks/struts: 400-500.00 or some sort of spring/shock combo for around 600-800.00 Sway Bars: 250-350.00 Diff Swap R200: AZ Mustache Bar: 249.00 AZ Dif Mount: 49.00 Strut Bars: 220.00 Wheels/Tires: 2-3000.00 Brakes: AZ 5 Lug Brake Kit: 2200.00 Engine/Transmission: JTR Kit: 300.00 JTR Radiator: 250.00 (including mounts etc) C&R Radiator: 287.00 (Peter at C&R actually pulled up Paraska's order for me with specs, 2 row, double pass, 26x19" aluminum). Radiator/fans: 400-800.00 JTR Headers: 300.00 Engine SBC (including FI/Ignition/etc: Transmision 700R4: Exhaust: A/C (if I go that way): And million other things, I'm just listing the highlights above that come to my head. So yeah... 25-35k is probably a much better estimate. If anything, maybe this will help out a few other newbies in the process. I'll keep updating the list and hyperlinks as I go. I'll add options to each category as I find them. Feel free to make any suggestions. Thanks,