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Lurch2461

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Posts posted by Lurch2461

  1. Thank you for all your help, I managed to source this part from a parts dismantler in the US for $85.00 landed in Australia. It came with all the hoses and necessary bolts & fittings except for the cooler unit, which I didn't need, as I have an 19 row Earl's unit.

  2. Here in Oz we tend to machine the L series front housing to suit the bigger bearing, but be advised, there is two (2) RB20DET gearboxes. There is an RP71 & RP71C, the RP71 came out on the HR31 & RP71C came out in R32/33 RB20DET and has double ring syncro's and bigger bearing and is the box to buy as it is by far the stronger of the 2.

     

    We also use the Z32 5 speed, as it is identical to an RB25DET box at about half the price.

     

    In Oz they sell an RB25DET box for AU$1500.00 plus, but are lucky to get $7-900.00 for an Z32 box.

  3. If Challenger falls through I will help you out for just the cost of shipping

     

    Hi, I know it might be a pain getting it off, but I would rather pay for the complete deal, rather than have some bits missing, even a single support, because it's going on a rather rare version L series Skyline and some originality is very important.

     

    Can you let me know how much to post it to me at P O Box 7N Campbelltown North NSW 2560 Australia and how I should pay you. I have a paypal account if that helps & I would pay the commission it costs to get the money, if any.

     

    I had one sent to me a few years ago, but it was kinked at the fuel feed ends and can't be repaired, hence why I'm asking & needing another.

     

    This might sound silly to some, but it will not be original if the feed is blocked off or crimped. I know most people would not know the difference, but those that do know will be observant and pick it up.

     

    Cheers,

     

    Dennis in Oz

  4. Hi All,

     

    Would anyone have an L28et fuel rail they would be prepared to ship to Sydney Australia.

     

    L28e rails are different as they have a fuel feed to the cold start injector where the turbo one does not.

     

    I need one asap as an overzealous helper snapped mine and cant get them in Ozland.

     

    Be very grateful if someone could help.

     

    Regards,

     

    Dennis in Oz

  5. Availability of the shorter P90 valves is somewhat difficult, yet the longer more standard N42 type are much easier to find.

     

    As I'm using a ground cam and the base diameter is smaller than original, I have been told that I can use the longer valves with standard lash pads.

     

    And if I use the super alloy Ferrea valves, I'm also told I need bronze valve guides.

     

    Q1. Is this correct and what base diameter have I got to have?

     

    Q2. Is a stainless valve a better option?

     

    Thanks,

     

    Dennis in Oz

  6. :) I know that the DR30 has the same shafts as the Z31

     

    FYI the same Z31 shafts are also on some JDM models of the following cars

    Y31 = Nissan Cedric (VG20DT, VG30D)

    F31 = Nissan Leopard (VG30D-ULTIMA)

     

    Now I did find another cross reference partnumber and it is used in the following models (again the 4 bolt version) on the RH side

    C32 = Nissan Laurel (RB20DET with R200 4.11 fitted)

    R31 = Nissan Skyline (RB20DT)

    F31 = Nissan Leopard (VG20T.XS)

    S12 = Nissan Silvia (CA18DET)

    Z31 = Nissan 300ZX/Fairlady ZR1, ZR2, 300ZR

    and the same partnumber used on a LH side of these models

    Y31 = Nissan Cedric (VG30E.Y, VG30E.MT, S.VG30T, VG30T.BROV)

     

    I am sure with more time alternative part numbers could be found with some research etc.

     

    You would be mistaken saying DR30's have 4 bolt half shafts.

     

    All of the factory DR's I have and have seen have the conventional 3 x 2 (6) bolt outer flanged half shafts.

     

    I didn't ask the question to be told what we already knew from Japan, what they came out of doesn't increase the availability out of Japan. I have seen 3 pairs of them on yahoo in recent times and have purchased 2 of them, the other was by far, more than I was prepared to pay as with freight the item was over AU$1200.00 for the pair and I could make them in Oz for that.

     

    Regards,

     

    Dennis in Oz

  7. I think you will find, the manifold with the mount flange between 4 & 5 has come off an L20ET pre 1983 S1 Skyline and the other is the same as the L28ET, because I had both and Stagefumer from NZ has the earlier version. My 1984 KHR30 Skyline has the latter version with flange opposite runner 5.

     

    Cheers, D

  8. Just got off the phone from a Cam Grinder (Camtech) and they say lobe separation of about 114 degrees is more beneficial than the stock 110. If this is the case some sort of custom grind/billet is needed, so maybe a stage 1 Schneider spec 17042 cam should be considered.

     

    Any thoughts?

     

    Thanks, D

  9. Sorry guys,

     

    Just did a search for some very good information.

     

    There is probably more than I need.

     

    But for a theory here in Oz, that getting the exhaust out better as opposed to getting the fuel in?

     

    Is this the best and dollars aren't really an issue??

     

    thanks, D

  10. Hi All,

     

    I have an L28ET to build.

     

    Engine specs are as follows:

     

    F54 Block + 1.0mm, P90 Head, 45mm in valves, 36.5mm ex valves, Ross Racing 87mm flat top (8.7:1) forged pistons, 4340 chrome molly rods, 550cc S4 RX7 turbo injectors, factory cast exhaust manifold - power ported and ceramic coated, Garrett GT BB 3076R turbine with ceramic coated exhaust housing, and will be controlled by a Haltech E8 computer.

     

    I have a 3" exhaust planned and a choice of an N42 non EGR inlet manifold, or stock EGR turbo inlet manifold. I have 2 x throttle bodies, 1 x JDM dual stage & a 60mm off the RB25DE.

     

    Turbo will spool up at 2500/3000rpm and would like to stay below 7500 and keep boost to about 20psi max.

     

    Power expectations are 350/400 at the wheels.

     

    Vehicle application will be primarily Hill Climbs & Drags, with some track days.

     

    Thanks.

  11. check these out http://www.sivalves.com/ocforeign_valvessp_nis.html

     

    They are what I have been told Nissan Comp sells. About $8.00 each and you can buy them direct. I have them in 2 heads and never a problem

     

    This is the response I just received from SiValves:

     

    I'M NOT FAMILIAR WITH THE P90 HEAD. OUR 8002SG IS 38MM HEAD DIAMETER WITH AN OVERALL LENGTH OF 4.620 INCHES (117.3)MM THE TIP IS .120 INCHES AND SINGLE GROOVE. IF THESE SPECS MATCH YOUR VALVE, THEN YOU HAVE THE CORRECT VALVE NUMBER.

     

    Is there anything else I should know, as I thought the turbo P90 head used a shorter valve of about 114mm.

     

    Cheers, Dennis

  12. Just received a set of 87mm Flat Top Forged Ross Racing Pistons and they say in the notes

     

    " Lubricate pistons & rings with a premium grade oil of at least 20W/50 weight before installing in bores. Low viscosity monograde oil is not recommended"

     

    I was going to use Valvoline 30 grade, but now I'm having second guesses.

     

    BP Corse Plus is 25W/60, is this an option or do you use something better or more specific for assembly.

     

    Thanks,

     

    Dennis in Oz

  13. Hi All,

     

    Does a larger than 5/8 Master Cylinder exist for a 280ZX, or Turbo version?

     

    A 3/4 by chance??

     

    Down under here in Ozland, we have a GM vehicle, an Opel spin off that used the RB30E & ET engines to power it and the manuals used a 7/8 (22mm) Slave cylinder with a 10" (250mm) clutch.

     

    To keep the same balance, but have more fluid and therefore a lighter pedal a 3/4 master would be the go, in my opinion, or at least worth experimenting with.

     

    Cheers,

     

    Dennis in Oz

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