Lurch2461
-
Posts
111 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Blogs
Events
Gallery
Downloads
Store
Posts posted by Lurch2461
-
-
Hi All,
I have '81 ECU & AFM, yet the crank angle sensor is in the distributor as in the '83/4.
Can I use this AFM/ECU combination with the late model distributor, or do I need to invest in the '83/4 items?
Cheers,
Dennis
-
So you got turbo prepd engine for $490? If so - thats really unbelievable. So do you have a spare turbo exhaust manifold left now? Also what head is that engine using? What sort of engine managment system are you planning to run' date=' or are you going to use carbs?
I am planning to put the engine into a 240z and at the moment I have a F54 block with an E30 head on it and standard fuel injection system - so have a long way to go before I have all the needed parts for turbocharging.
Thanks for the pointer to VG30 turbo - sounds as a good idea, but I am still concerned that it might be hard to find one in reasonable condition...[/quote']
L Series Turbo manifold in Melbourne Australia for $100.00 so far.
Ebay item # 4635414465
Cheers,
Dennis
-
As a spin off from Dave's thread, I have found, so far, three (3) different oil pumps in L28ET engines.
For example: The cast marks on the side of the pump housings say H3, H33, and H4. New line, maybe K4 as suggested.
The H4 I'm told, comes from an AUTO with oil cooler and is reputed to be the best & highest volume pump of all.
I have seen or been advised that all models have been fitted to L28ET's.
Can someone tell me the difference between these pumps and not just that they have different volumes.
Sorry for the bold italics, I'm not yelling at anyone, just trying to highlight the question.
Cheers,
Dennis
-
To my knowledge, it isn't the OIL PRESSURE as much as the VOLUME of oil the turbo pumps distribute.
Oil pressure can be gained by packing the pressure relief valve spring with washers, but this doesn't increase the the amount of oil the pump can deliver.
-
The engine cost me $640.00 delivered to my door, which I thought was an absolute STEAL!
It has a P90 turbo head & I acquired a standard turbo cam (thanks to one of the guys on this forum)
As for the spare exhaust manifold, it's staying where it is for now, as I have to be sure the one I have is A'OK, similarly with the inlet manifold. It might pay you to stay in touch as I wont be using both of them eventually.
Sent you a PM that might help
SWR in Sydney can supply a high flow turbo pump for $137.00
I have an '81 L28ET AFM & ECU that I plan to use with a microtech piggy back to control the fuel & ignition etc. I'm trying to stay stockish, as much as possible, as it's all going into an HR30 Paul Newman Version Skyline Coupe, of which there is only 5 in Oz.
Cheers,
Dennis
-
KA24 pistons have a dish of only 2.80cc, but when I was looking at building a 2949cc motor, the piston of choice was the KA24, but with the lip machined off to create a flat top piston.
Cheers,
Dennis
-
And if you do a search for the L28ET manual oil pump PN you also get results for the Z24. So there you go. I think I'll go order an auto L28ET pump and be done with it. Thanks for your help guys' date='
Dave[/quote']
Dave,
SWR or Stewart Wilkins Motorsport here in NSW has high volume oil pumps for sale NEW that he fits to all the 280ZX rally cars for AU$137.00.
The problem they have with them is the oil pressure (40psi @ idle) so they fit standard springs to the high volume pump and they work fine.
Good pressure at idle yet with the high volume supply.
Cheers,
Dennis
-
There is a guy on ebay "texas????" selling what he claims to be an L28ET Oil Pump and he tells me the casting number is H-3, so I guess there must be bigger and or better when there is H-33 & H-4 pumps as well. And don't know which p/n corresponds to which casting number.
-
Doug' date='
I don't suppose I could con you into measuring your known auto turbo pump length could I?
Oh and according to carfiche.com, the PN for the L28ET with oil cooler is:
15010-88080
or
15010-88060
or
15010-68080
or
15010-68060
See for yourselves. http://carfiche.com/fiche009/s130/2/f08.gif
Dave
Dave,
Just by chance, do you know the cast number on your existing Oil Pump?
On my L20ET I have H-3 on the pump housing, on the F54 L28ET I have H-33 and I'm told the Auto L28ET with cooler is H-4.
Cheers,
Dennis
-
I stumbled across this web site the other day and maybe you might find it helpful if you can understand the translation.
www.aurora.dti.ne.jp/~joinme/index.html
I used altavista babelfish as a translation medium.
Cheers,
Dennis
-
I was myself considering using the ld28t exhaust manifold and l28e intake manifold with larger throttle body and a P90 head. The turbo - I have not decided yet' date=' but I was planning on using a modern one that is ball bearing type with steel compressor wheel.
So where did you get or are plannning to get those parts - from US? How much will it approximately cost? And what does the 1.0mm stand for in piston description - is it the piston diameter increase? Are you getting those forged?[/quote']
John,
The L28ET & L20ET exhaust manifolds are both identical, likewise with both inlet manifolds. The diference is the throttle body sizing.
The L20ET has a very tiny 50mm or there abouts, the Jap Spec L28ET has a dual stage (twin butterfly) throttle body.
I have the Jap spec inlet manifold & throttle body, that I'm going to try first, I also have 65mm throttle bodies from KA24E & RB25DE for later.
The Z31 VG30 Turbo is ball bearing, but only ceramic, but I cant see a great problem with that if you keep the boost down. They flow probably 30% more air at the same psi as the older style T03. A very good VG30 Turbo will set you back about AU$350.00 as opposed to about AU$2000.00 for something like a Garrett GT30R.
I was lucky for the parts, I bought a complete L28ET engine, but it is n/a and the guy spent over AU$7000 on it about 80K ago. It has been fully balanced and internally was near perfect, no lip on the bore, so I am having the bores honed, HPC the piston crowns and skirts and putting it back together as is with new rings & bearings. The head has had a mild port and polish done (just removed the rough bits) As I already had a spare L20ET exhaust manifold, now black HPC coated, I will nearly get it assembled without having to touch the original engine, except at the very end.
At the end of the day, how much HP are you looking for, and or what can you use. I have a mate in South Oz that has 195Kw at the wheels in an MR30 sedan and he can break traction in the first 3 gears without really trying.
The 1.0mm pistons means 1.0mm (0.040) oversize which converts to an 87mm in the F54 L28ET block. The pistons are cast I think, but if you ask some questions about pistons on here, most of the guys will tell you they are up to the task if staying under a bar of boost. Forged pistons really only come into their own when using big boost numbers of 20+ psi.
When I started looking, Hornsby/Asquith Nissan Wreckers wanted about $2500.00 for a complete Jap spec L28ET engine. Z Classic wanted $1200 just for the top end without manifolds, yet I was lucky enough to find what I did for $450.00 plus $190 freight from Lismore to Sydney.
The big question is what are you putting it in, because if it's not a 280Z there may be conversion costs involved as you might need a diferent sump position.
Cheers,
Dennis
-
I'm doing a little futzing around with the LENGINE calc, and there is no provision for the AZC pistons which i'm running, i manually punched in the 87mm diameter, there flat top so there is no piston CC, but i do not know the pin height or the Rod/Stroke ration... anyone able to help out on that info?
Excuse me if I'm a little confused, but I guess you have these pistons in a running engine right now???
If this is the case, would the program not give you these dimensions depending on the engine configuration you have. Either L24, or L26, or L28.
If you have these pistons in an L28 for example, I guess you would know if you have L28 rods & crank or not and if you have, the program gives you all that information, or at least mine does.
Cheers,
-
VG30 BB Turbos have a stock T 03 mount flange and bolt straight up to the L28ET exhaust manifold. I'm going thru the same exercise now and I'll try posting some pics of it mounted up.
If your in Oz it might be easier to send em to you direct.
Cheers,
Dennis
-
^^^Yeah I heard those cranks are expensive - but still thought I will give it a try - you never know what you might find in the wrecking yards...
I am actually planning to go down the turborcharged path as well and was thinking about usinf the ld28t exhaust manifold. I am sure it will provide great low down torque' date=' but I am slightly concerned its high RPM flow capabilities - has anyone used those manifolds succesfully?
Btw did maximas come out with both ld28 turbo and non-turbo? Were all the patrols with ld28 turbocharged?
What exhaust manifold are you planning on using Dennis? What about you Dave - what manifold did you use?
John.[/quote']
John,
I can't tell you anything about the turbo diesel manifolds, other than getting hold of it would be the challenge.
You can find many LD28 cranks in NZ, but try getting it into Oz.
You can find any number of these cranks on Trade Me ~ NZ from NZ$150 upwards, but then comes the fun part.
Packed it goes just over 20kg and the NZ postal services posts international up to 30kg, but there is no NZ Post shop that will accept anything over 20kg, not even the 22kg that I got the packaged item down to and they then say Air Freight to Australia.
With the freight costs + Ozzy terminal costs, possible duty and other expenses, it's cheaper to buy onein Oz for the grand everyone I know wants for them.
I chose to go with an F54 block, P90 head, plus 1.0mm flat top pistons (8.7:1) @ 2818cc, Z31 VG30 BB Turbo on stock L28ET exhaust manifold, L28ET inlet manifold, stock L28ET cam and with 14 psi, I expect better than 300HP at the wheels. The 8.7:1 compression will give excellent low down torque and staying under a bar of boost, some reliability can be achieved.
Somebody please tell me how more than this is of any use. You sure can't get more than this successfully to the ground unless using full on racing slicks, which you can't use on the road and be registered.
My HR30 Skyline weighs about 1200kg in track trim and I have 245 tyres, the widest possible on these cars.
There are a lot more issues in building a reliable L28ET than having big cu ins.
Cheers,
Dennis
-
I know they were used in 80s patrols but could soneone specify the exact time period? Any other cars it was used in?
Thank you in advance.
If your thinking of going down the L31 stroker path, maybe you should have a rethink.
I was going to do the same until I found getting an LD28 crank was a AU$1000.00 + exercise.
I can put you in touch with 2 people that have them in Oz, but they want over a grand for them each, but just getting your hands on the crank is just the beginning. There is a fair bit of machining to be done to make it a good high revving crank and I don't think it's value, as the big gain is only torque.
I scrapped my L31ET aspirations for an L28ET + 0.040 o/size because I will acheive the HP I want and the percentage gain in torque Vs dollars wasn't worth it.
Cheers,
Dennis
-
MR30 Skyline derivatives (maxima maybe) that went to South Africa and NZ.
-
what about a RB gearbox behind a L series block? Whats the story? Anyone know?
HAS EVERYONE TOTALLY IGNORED THIS COMMENT??????????????
Here in Ozland, they modify an L Series front housing to accept the late model 92/93 RB20DET box and have a lot of success with it.
I have a front housing away getting done now by SWR in Sydney NSW Australia and from what I can find out, it's primarily a machining task to make clearance for the much larger front bearing.
I'm told the Zed rally guys use this modification with great success and they're getting 300+ rwhp.
Cheers,
Dennis in Oz
-
Another quick question on the same subject if I can.
Can the red 20 tooth gear & spindle be purchased in the USA on their own, as in Oz we can only buy the complete speedo drive assembly and the 20 tooth was only available for a 4 cylinder and is a different assembly.
Will take a couple of pics and try to get them on the forum so you all understand what I mean.
Cheers,
Dennis in Oz
-
Sorry, saw these pics, but took it in a different perspective.
I haven't taken mine off the manifold yet, so I wasn't considering them from this view.
Thanks.
-
I have a P90 head, that is complete, but the cam towers have been removed prior to me getting it.
How can I establish their correct sequence for assembly, or doesn't it matter all that much.
Cheers,
Dennis in Oz
-
Nope! Nothing like what I have.
How do I get pics onto this site from my PC?
I will take pics tomorrow and show them If you tell me how.
TonyD, if I email my pics to you can you get them on here.
Thanks.
-
Sorry! maybe I should have put the ECU piggyback comment in another thread or equally on another forum.
Dave, I thought you were an intelligent being.
Maybe you should join the likes on SAU cause they show similar intelligence.
You take this out of context ....... I guess your a woman!
-
Have searched ALL 20 pages and found nothing.
Thanks heaps.
-
I am currently building a replacement engine for my Skyline. It now has an L20ET on board.
My new engine is an F54 block, P90 head, stock L28ET cam (thanks to another member of this forum) 1.0mm oversize L28 Flat Top Pistons, L28 rods & crank.
It will have about 8.7:1 compression, 460cc injectors, will be boosted by a VG30 BB Turbo and I'm looking for similar HP and expect it with less than 1 Bar of boost, running on 100 octane ULP fuel.
ECU is going to be stock except for Microtech piggy back to control the fuel & boost issues.
The engine guru's in this country say it's the only way to go.
My only question is re TB size.
Cheers,
Dennis in Oz
L28ET Electronics
in Nissan L6 Forum
Posted
George,
That's my '84 PNV as it was purchased in 2002