Dusto1002

Yup, they actually sent me tracking that hour, I should of been more patient I guess.

Has anyone had experience with Godzilla raceworks? I ordered a driveshaft and yoke from them in a custom size, and it’s been 2 months! I spoke to him last Thursday and was told he had it in his hands and was fed ex-ing it on Monday and to expect tracking soon. It’s Tuesday of the next week, no tracking, no driveshaft, and no email… what gives? Anyone work with them before?

I looked last night for the older photos, hoping to see photos of the coilovers being fitted with the ring shim. I didn’t take any! But I do have some of the aftermath and can explain how I did it, it would open up more suspensions options, but you’d have to do your own geometry to figure out where it needs to be. Later on tonight I’ll do a quick drawing and show the pics of the strut base where it was welded. It should be pretty easy, I had access to a machine shop, so I had the rings made to fit perfect. That will be the main issue when retrofitting coilovers on of a diff size diameter.

After getting the engine in with cx engine and trans mounts. I started to troubleshoot why my engine wasn’t starting. Finding the random springs in the coils, a gas in the injectors, and the timing belt being off by 1 tooth I finally got it started, although rough at the start, it has been sitting for over 2 yrs to my knowledge. Maybe more. After running some sea foam and injector cleaner the engine started sounding much more healthy and reflecting its leak down and compression tests. I made it to the dmv last Friday and registered it as well, after the driveshaft gets here this week supposedly. I’ll be driving it officially. and after a good shakedown and tying up the ends, laguna seca next month and auto x to come. I plan on updating as I add more mods. I want to front half the car next and a roll bar. and I planned on keeping the rb pretty close to stock while I got all the kinks out before I started going faster. I know that this will likely put me in a higher class in auto x with a motor swap, but it is what it is. This will be my first time in organized events and it’s a bit nerve wracking, figuring out what is allowed and what isn’t. I finally said forget it, and built the car how I wanted. I figured that after I season or so I can make modifications to better suit what I want to do with the car. I’ll try to keep my experiences in here. That way if anyone else is in the same boat, they can read this and see how I dealt with whatever issue.

The engine and trans go in and I start wiring it up, I used a wiring specialties engine harness, made my own chassis harness and tach adapter for the RB20DET ecu. My interior looks like a bowl of spaghetti and it’s slow, but it’s going. The rb20 came from a random craigslist ad, I got it for a steal. It is missing small things, and the P.O. or the PPO had some suspicious additions. (He had what looked like bic pen springs as the coil on plug spring) fun to troubleshoot though.

I wanted to go black, but one of my daughters won a bet and picked blue, she picked good though and it’s grown on me. Body isn’t super straight, black may have been worse. I painted the car in two stages, front and rear. The rear came out great. I have a disease that locks my back up in a lot of pain, it conveniently happened during me painting the front half, so it looks like 2 different people painted it with, let’s just say varying degrees of experience lol

Next after some body work, I started on the suspension. I chose bc coilovers with swift coils, 4 runner brakes in the front and used milk fabs brackets to mount s15 mustang rear brakes on the rear, it allows my factory e brake too. It looks good too. I went with replica te37 wheels in 16. This was a mistake I found out, originally I went w the size that would allow my brakes to fit, I should have gone to 17” though. This is because tire choice is very limited. For ex right now I have lion sport 3 on there. The bc coilovers were great but my car being a 75 had a mix of parts from 74-75. A good example would be the rear struts being the smaller diameter tube of 74 but the bc coilovers were the larger diameter. I ended up making some shims, welding them in, and then sliding the coilovers over the strut with the shim welded on. This worked perfectly so far. I went with cx racing tensioners and lower control arms. I’m unsure if this was a mistake yet, but looking at their oil pan, it may have been lol. I used apex engineering rear control arms.

I purchased a turd I mean car about a year ago, and started tearing it down what was left of it. The car was rough, the passenger floor board was more rust than metal and had taken the frame rail rail with it. Luckily I bought the turd, I mean car with nothing on it, no engine trans, brakes, wheels, or body panels. So besides wiring there wasn’t much to remove. The photos show the floor and rail removed and the car before paint. Trying to find the photos of the car at purchase. Much worse.

ahhhh this sheds some light on what i was thinking, thanks Gollum. not trying to thread jack at all but p90 heads ONLY came on turbos.... right?

turbo or non turbo whatever you guys have, i cant shell out 300 duckets right now for a new set, because im moving but my injectors are really really bad hahaha #4 is actually leaking all over (stuck on and boot is broken ) anyways send me a pm or call or text 4088409618 thanks alot guys PS i saw another guy who was selling such a thing sent him a pm and a text but no answer yet, if your reading this call me!

ya your telling me, haha. thanks.

are you using a 280zx shell? i was thinking about making a whole seperate cross member and branching mounts off that maybe the stock ford ones can be fabbed on so i wont have to make a completely new kit.

o ya i have asked about that, i was told a better choice would be a berlinetta though? but who knows they prolly arent that good, i dont think there that good lol but everyone needs a hobby. but ya 4cyl limits the cars a bit, i would never of thought of the mustang being fast at all... thanks for the knowledge. ps. i meant the guys i had asked before about a fast dirt track car.

o ya i have asked about that, i was told a better choice would be a berlinetta though? but who knows they prolly arent that good, i dont think there that good lol but everyone needs a hobby. but ya 4cyl limits the cars a bit, i would never of thought of the mustang being fast at all... thanks for the knowledge.

yes, they did. in the 60's, they even made a 4cyl in the 80's that was really really.... really slow. not sure if the straight six was quick or not though.

To be honest the mustang sits in the yard half wrecked with the entire front end disassembled I I really should of thought of it sooner lol. Do you think the straight six would fit under the mustang? Its lacking in longer engine space, maybe something super wide for sure, I just got a flashback of that caddilac that used a tank engine hahahahaha

Forgive me if I sometimes use abreviations but I'm on the road to girlfriends parents house... Really really... Really far away and thought I'd share my recently found solution. A few months ago I wrecked my 2001 mustang, ad while she's a beauty, or I should say used to be (she has light body damage and heavy frame damage I don't know exactly how there not both heavy but anyways) after doing a few quick eagle eye measurements I've decided my z will benefit more with that engine and trans. More than the stang. The 3.8 will be a little farther set forward then the Lseries did, should just barely leave enough room for fans a/c steering ETC.. I have all the tools required and my mothers boyfriend has a machine shop, so fabbing a new cross member to weld the stangs motor mounts onto for correct fitment, almost no cost besides of course the cross member, I plan to even get it barred by a state ref. The whole project would start arooound I'd say jan/feb and hope to be done before jun/july the only problem I can see is maybe wideining the transmision tunnel for the borg warner, never done that before but I'm not too worried. Can't wait ill keep you guys posted on the progress with some pics and stuff Ps don't hate on my ford I loved her : / plus its ported a bit : )

Ya i guess without a computer program specifically designed to the head you HAVE to have machined for your specific apllication, you wouldnt have but distinctively small gains, and just the computer programs to switch between timing for exhaust valves and intake would be a pretty penny huh? not to mention all the wiring problems and issues with finding someone to actually begin work on such a thing too. Just too many loose ends. i thought it was a good idea for a few minutes there too maybe its just too early in the morning for me to be thinking LOL.

I didnt make a blanket statement, i said most. and most are pretty obnoxious. and your right i actually meant machine a new head not valve cover, i accidentally put that. but i know its because of the head, i didnt take into account the VVT though But with added oil shooting directly in, would it be necesary to have VVT? it would still make at least some extra torque without it.... right?

Maybe this has been mentioned before, im not sure. Ive done a few searches but hadnt found this. As we all know or should honda engines have swappable heads with a solenoid that shoots oil into the cam. (Vtec) Heres my idea, with an oversized oil pan and dual oil lines, using the same solenoid (or maybe a larger one to accomodate the larger engine if available) and with a machined valve cover, is it possible to engineer the same principles into the 280?? of course youd need an ecu swap, but maybe using a stand alone fuel system you could program the solenoid to be controlled say in between 4000 to redline.. Is there a similar discussion or product that can be applied to this sort of set up? imagine the torque gain..... sorry i almost started drooling. Good idea or no? btw not a fan of most honda drivers, however honda has come up with a pretty ingenius idea, whether it was there idea first or not im not certain.

I'm at work about to order the borla boomer muffler and i was wondering anyone hear it with 2.5 piping and catylytic converter deleted? or know if it will sound muscley or what? thanks guys btw stock manifold for now, forgot that part.

ok sweet thanks guys

Hey I got some projector lights and, i just realized how the heck do you take these little buggers off? do you have to take the whole fender out? the stockers seem to be deep in there and the screws take forever and don't seem to be doing any good at all. thanks a lot