CptCorN

Haha, thanks Brian, this will help out a lot I do appreciate it greatly. There are are quite a few little pieces that are still there. Especially in the engine bay. All gauges looked to be in great condition. Heater controls, blower motor, that's all still there. The dash has a smaller sized crack but it does go through the entire dash unfortunately. I have seen some really poor looking dashes and this one really isn't in too bad of condition. Anything structural is gone. I did fall through the driver side floor pan. I just took stuff I could use and left the rest to other people in case they could use it. Brian you should post this up in the classifieds section too... Again thanks. Alex

PM'd ... Woo

That looks like the exact spot where I have damage.

I did forget to mention that the car went on a rack and they did say everything behind the suspension was straight. This is not a track car, and truthfully it never will be. I know if I could get it straight in the front and smooth out some of those wrinkles in the sheet metal I'd be absolutely content with that sort of fix since this car isnt going to be putting down and record laps or hp numbers. It will simply be a nice little car to drive around. I'm going to be bringing it to another alignment shop so that I can get some more opinions from them and just to double check everything.

I've never had to ever deal with any actual frame work or anything remotely as complex and critical. Here are some photos of my bent frame rails. I received the car like this. It has virtually no rust other than a few areas with surface rust on a couple body parts. As far as I know when the car was fixed after it was hit. Most things were pretty well aligned up. However I really have no way of figuring out if its really right. To be honest; I just want to fix it... Everything from these points back are straight. or at least appear to be very close to straight. 1.) Passanger side just behind where the alternator is and just above the steering rack: 2.) Another photo of the same spot. 3.) Same location just on Driver side: 4.) Same, area. 5.) Radiator support area driver side. 6.) I tried to get a shot of the seams buckling apart but it was tough...

So I was feeling ambitious a couple nights ago and ripped the front carb apart. We were having problems with the float not sutting off the fuel before so I decided I would start there. I cleaned everything up and found a chunk of something in the piece with the ball in it. I'm not sure if it was there before or if I accidently got something in there while cleaning it up. Anyways, everything looked good, I put everything back let the car warm up and took it out to see if it was still doing the same thing. Gave it some gas and its like nothing changed... So the next morning I took it to work, and there was no problem at all and so far as of today it hasnt shown itself yet. I'm gonna go through both carbs again and replace all the gaskets and just clean them up. Just wish I knew specifically what the problem was.

Thanks for the insight... I reset the carbs using a meathod as described by a close Z fanatic of mine... Replaced plugs, wires, distributor cap (couple weeks ago)... I'm getting spark... I notice I don't have this problem when the motor is coldish and it runs fine for a couple minutes. It's almost like its not getting enough fuel underload to spin the motor...

I've been searching around for an answer for some time.I have a l28et with su carbs.The motor revs fine in neutral but actually driving it giving it any gas at all boggs her out good, im no su expert but I want to think thats my problem, plug wires look good, new cap for the dizzy... it just seemed to happen while driving home today. I thought maybe I was experiencing vapor lock since it was hot and humid today, but even with the motor cold it does the same thing.

In this photo: What's the purpose of the lile capacitor looking thing that mounts to the ground?... I have it, however there is no monting tab inbetween the thick white/red to the thin white/red. (I believe this is where my wire grounded out and screwed over my old alt.) Also the plug (regulator side) do the wires connect straight throuhg the plug. I believe i have an aftermarket regulator, and am hesitent to cut the main harness.

These readings were with the engine off and ignition on. I'm just wondering that since I was getting a reading at each of the 8 spots, that should all be good, and I should concentrate on the altenator. They are 15" Rikens

Hello evereybody. Great forum here. I'm a new Z owner since last fall and just before I put it away a wirenut the previous owner had installed on a line going into the alt (white/red) corroded and grounded out to a nut/bolt on the housing of the alt. The car died, I bought a battery before I found that problem. I just want to confirm that the alt would be shot... I took readings from the neg battery terminal to all 8 points on the 2 fusible link groups and got 11.9v on each of them. I have not tried starting the car and removing the battery, or taking any other readings while the car is running... I just wanted some of your thoughts. I've been pulling lots of info from this site in the past 6 months... Thanks Again Here is a photo of my Z (since this is my first post, lol)