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SpeedRacer

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Posts posted by SpeedRacer

  1. It looks like the original Alpha 1 GTO dash but without the leather look finish.  The Alpha and later John Washington (Reaction Research Velo Rossa) dash is bonded to the original steel Z dash skeleton.  https://www.ztrix.com/installation-guides/alphabet-dash-installation.html?highlight=WyJkYXNoIl0=   

     

    This is what my Alpha 1 GTO dash looks like but it can be used with the original Z instruments.  Oh, and to answer your original question, I think John lists his dash for $345.

    Steering Wheel.jpg

  2. Does it stioll exist?  I was going to add mine, but I don't think the GTORR is still online, for obvious reasons.

    Yes and no.  I don't know what "for obvious reasons" means but John Washington has a little bit of the GTO Replica Registry (GTORR) on line as part of his Reaction Research site:    http://www.reactionresearch.com/gtorr/index.html

     

    However, I think John is to busy with his other companies and endeavors so he hasn't done much with it. 

  3. Following on from the movie  http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/50042-250-gto-owners-thread/?p=1182927 I've put together a book about the build.

     

    I just started out keeping notes for myself and any future owners about what went into the build for later maintenance and repair. Friends wanted to know how it was progressing so the notes morphed in quarterly journal entries.

     

    Someone suggested I compile it into a photo-book and as it turned out I think it gives added provenance to the car.

     

    attachicon.gifPhotobook pages 3.jpg

     

    attachicon.gifFirst edition 1s.jpg

     

    attachicon.gifFirst edition 2s.jpg

     

    Just a thought for those undertaking builds.

     

    I have a copy of this book and it is a huge coffee table book full of interesting and useful information.  If you are thinking of taking on a 240Z to Ferrari GTO project I would highly recommend you get a copy.  Peter (Boy from OZ) does some very interesting things in his build and comes up with some excellent good ideas.  

  4. Welcome 1alfanatic,

     

    Sorry I can't help with the wheels.  Most of us with wire wheels run custom Dayton wheels.  Nice wheels but they are not Borrani's.  Sounds like a very interesting project so how about posting a few pictures? 

     

    BTW, Chelle, who posted above, has a beautiful Z based GTO with the longer wheelbase and BMW V12.  She built it herself and is quite an enthusiast, so if you had any questions, I am sure she would be willing to answer them. 

     

    Ferrari_32

  5. Unless you plan on always running 100% pure gas you will have up to 10% Ethanol in it.  Ethanol is nasty stuff and really hard on old cars that were not designed for it.  It is amazing how much, and how fast, Ethanol absorbs moisture.  Unless your tank is protected it will cause huge problems.  I suggest that you might see if there is a Gas Tank RENU dealer http://www.gastankrenu.com/ in your area that that could clean and coat your tank.  They did mine over 18 years ago and it is still holding up great.  

     

    1962 Ferrari 250 GTO Replica

  6. Good looking car Lee Davis but I don't think it's a Alpha 1 GTO because of the nose and trunk.  Tom Edwards was the first to put a trunk on his "Scorpion" Ferrari 250 GTO replica.  Do you have a serial number?  You can find it stamped in the firewall.  I might be able to find it in the GTO Replica Registry  or I could have it on the old Terry Watson registry list. 

     

    1962 Ferrari 250 GTO Replica

    SBC

     

  7. Thanks for the comments SpeedRacer. I have admired your GTO for several years and I have also been trying to find the Vehicle Improvement Products of Scottsdale Az. valve covers you have for over 10 years. I have carried photos and descriptions to every Good Guys show and swap meet up and down the east coast to no avail. I did see a set 15-16 years ago when I still had a 6 cyl. and should have bought them. I currently have a fast burn ZZ4 with T56 ( .50% sixth ) transmission and Nissan Armada center section. I have used the JTR mounting system in all three of my Z's which puts the T56 shifter perfectly in the center of the factory opening. During the rebuild I installed fully adjustable; coil overs, shocks, camber plates, Wilwood brakes and a Miata power rack. The rack required removing the motor mounts from the crossmember so I fabricated mounts from the frame rails which let the motor sit lower once I found a smaller aftermarket balancer. I liked the idea of a 3X2 intake but have not been able to source a low rise unit for a ZZ4. I molded a new GTO style dash with hidden radio and AC controls and the painless wiring is almost complete. Since the Wilwood brakes are mustang 5 lug I will have to order new Daytons unless someone has a better suggestion. I am hoping the finished product will be ready by Christmas.

    Escaladess

    Thank you for the nice comments about my car as well.  Yeah, I wish I had bought more of those valve covers as I think I could have made a bunch of money keeping them for a few years and the selling them.  You would not believe how many people have asked me about them! 

     

    I think the Fast Burn ZZ4 is a sweet motor and with almost 400HP coupled to a T56 it should be a really fast ride.  I might be wrong but I thought the aluminum heads on the ZZ4 would accept the single plane Offenhauser 3X2 tri-power manifold I have.  I got mine from Hot Rod Carbs  but you could also try Vintage Speed  http://vintagespeed.com/  and see what they can come up with.  

     

    Did you check with Dayton on the wheels because you should only need new hubs to fit the five lugs and not have to buy all new wheels.  Just a thought, but maybe you could just get the existing hubs re-drilled if there is enough spacing. 

     

    I noticed the camber plates and wondered if you had gone with coil overs.  BTW, I didn't and wish I had.  The reason I mentioned the Jags That Run book was what looked like motor mounts attached to the frame rails but now I understand why. 

     

    Again, good luck and please keep the pictures coming. 

  8. Wow! There doesn't appear to be much in the way of comments in the past 10 years but I do have an original Alpha GTO molded in 1989 which I have owned since then. It is currently being rewired, re-powered and has new paint.

    Escaladess

    Welcome escaladess.  59 pages of comments with maybe 8-10 on a page isn't too bad.  Anyway, that is a good looking Alpha 1 GTO you have.  There are a few of us here that can help if you have questions. 

     

    BTW, a small block Chevy (like the one you already have in your car) is an excellent choice to install in a Z car.  I am sure by now you know there is a conversion manual "Jags That Run" http://www.jagsthatrun.com/ for reference.  Using the JTR setback installation with aluminum heads, intake, water pump, headers, etc. the engine will weigh no more then the stock Datsun inline 6.  Plus it will all sit behind the front axle and lower in the car.  The engine weight will now be all be behind the front axle and lower because it is a V type engine.  The weight distribution will go from a stock 52% front 48% rear to the highly desired 50%-50% front, rear distribution.  It will also lower the center of gravity thereby improving on an already great handling car.  AND, then of course there is the additional horsepower!!!  LOTS of it!!!!!

     

    Good luck with your car. 

     

    Ferrari_32

    ,

    SBC

  9. Usually red hot headers means that the timing is retarded and the fuel continues to burn as it enters the exhaust when the exhaust valve opens.  Check to make sure you have the right dampener on the front of the engine.  You might have to use a dial indicator through the number one spark plug hole to get the exact Top Dead Center (TDC).  When to piston is on TDC make sure the 0 degree mark on the dampener lines up with the pointer on the timing cover.

  10. The "Jags That Run" (JTR) Z car V8 conversion manual has a blueprint for a simple "L" shaped hood latch bracket that you can bolt on.  This is in the manual because the distributor on a Chevy V8 conversion interferes with the stock bracket so you have to fabricate up a new one.  It is very simple and uses the standard Z car latch (which you may have to locate).  I just looked but can't find my JTR Manual right now (it's been 17 years since I did my conversion) but I am sure somebody here has one.  Maybe someone here could scan and post the blueprint for you.   :)

     

    Ferrari_32

  11. Hmmm.... 240Z - 327 CID Chevy Small Block (SB) - 4 speed ... First I would check to make sure it's not a rare Scarab 240Z.  http://datsunforum.com/the-scarab-legend-the-original-hybrid-datsun-z/ 

     

    If it is then you might want to consider not changing it.  If it is not a Scarab, was the motor installed using the preferred Jags That Run (JTR) method?  http://www.jagsthatrun.com/Pages/Datsun_Z_V-8.html 

     

    Also, check the engine number to find out what 327 you have.  BTW, GM made 350 HP, 365 HP and 375 HP 327 motors.  http://www.gearheadgeek.com/ghgj/index.php/49-54-data/general-chevy-data/chevy-block-casting-s 

     

    A Chevy 327 motor is very reliable and there are many parts available so you could get up to 400HP without going to crazy.  IMHO I think you should consider getting the motor rebuilt with a decent cam, aluminum heads and intake/carb setup.  If you don't want to, or for some reason can't rebuild the 327, another possible option is to buy a crate engine from GM, Jeg's or Summit. 

     

    FYI, I have an old Vette 327 in my car and love it!  The whole thing only weighs about 2,500 lbs. and has close to 50 - 50 weight distribution.  It's plenty quick!

     

    Small Block Chevy with Tri-Power

    Photo8

     
     

     

  12. Chatz,

    I built my first trunk using the scorpionz trunk kit.. I posted a thread on here long ago about how I felt, that the kit was a decent start, but that if (and when) i did it again, i'd rather go metal. Unfortunately the maker took it as me attacking him - which was not my intent. Those trunk kits were an okay option. To use my kit, I strengthened it in several ways, but in the end, I still feel, metal is a better option. The crossbar won't ever crack, the trunklid won't have any issues distorting in heat or cold, affecting fit, and everything from the hinges to the latch will be better when done.

    I'll try and find my original post on this point

    Thank you very much for the info Chelle and I am sorry if you thought I slighted your awesome GTO.  I didn't mean too but I thought you had sold it AND I forgot just how awesome it came out after you made all those changes and lengthened the nose. 

     

    Still not sure if I am up to making my own aluminum trim rings so I might just take Peter up on his offer.  BTW, yours look really good!

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