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OlderThanMe last won the day on August 19 2006

OlderThanMe had the most liked content!

About OlderThanMe

  • Birthday 11/16/1987

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  1. NOS Datsun Competition head that I just purchased.
  2. In March 2010, I designed an L4 shortblock using some off the shelf 86mm pistons, 96mm throw crank, 152.5mm (6")rods. Finding 6" rods is "impossible" so I shelved the idea. Bought myself the lightest weight Datsun I could find, a 1981 Datsun 210 with a 40RWHP A14 engine and a 4 linked 3.90:1 H145 rear end. Car has a basically damage and rust free chassis(other than some slight hail damage on the roof and slight rust on the bottom of the doors but it is 8000X better than my 260Z was. Owner said it was running but when I got there it would turn over and cough but not start. Gave $640 for the car since it was rust and damage free as far as I was concerned. Got it running with a shot of carb cleaner in the vent tube of the nikki carb and I am enjoying the 32-35mpg that the car offers. paint polished up pretty well(I'm a race car technician, hence the vehicle in the background) First upgrades/modifications new complete clutch kit: $53 Sylvania silverstar headlights: $40 240Z taillights nearly fit into the stock taillight holes so they are put in(still need to be properly mounted... I just spliced the 240Z taillight harness with the stock 210 harness to adapt it to the stock 210 body harness. 1g talon seats mounted basically to the floor 280zx Iron cross wheels with 185/65R14 Douglas all season tires. Found myself with a Z20E with the good rods and bought all the other stuff I needed to assemble the shortblock. deburred and smoothed the interior of the block(~30 hours of work with as many different carbide bits as I needed) before: deburred the main caps too block back from the machine shop painted main studs bottom end components ready for assembly(200+ hours later) wrist pins installed with lock rings bottom end together nothing really special about this engine build....just a typical off the shelf bottom end that should be good for setting up the top end stuff. something stupid I bought. Something stupid I built out of OEM Nissan parts but I doubt I'm going to use it... you can see 60% of the back of the valve just looking through the wide open 45mm throttle plate.
  3. Almost makes you think the second one would work, doesn't it?
  4. Were you ever in nashville sometime last summer?

    i was at this park and i ran into this couple driving a 944 exactly like yours, and the guy said nice z, and i told them nice 944 and that my girlfriend wanted one which she now has haha,and then i gave them directions haha

  5. Nope. The critical plane contacts the main and rod journals at one point each. Also mind you that I have 34mm for each cheek pad. Yours look offset to one side with different cheek pads. (I'm hoping that your motor is based like that) It also looks like you cut into the main and rod journals too with your critical plane? What are the rounded parts at the upper and lower portions? Are they radii on the journal? OTM
  6. Alright... now lets get rid of any stress risers(sharp corners...) and then maximize your critical section area. Use that information I gave you and plug some numbers to figure out if it will hold up to your expected horsepower levels. Although 59in^2 sounds like you had an error somewhere in your conversion math. 6"X6" only yields an area of 36in^2 and your cross section isn't that big. Just as a comparison, my design has a cross section of 2249.2mm^2.
  7. Proxlamus posted this link in his ITB fabrication thread... http://www.velocity-of-sound.com/velocity_of_sound/calculator3.htm
  8. OMG Tim!!!! lol Gollum, for a N/A motor, long nuners are good for torque. Have you figured out the helmholtz numbers for your peak pressure? It wouldn't be that hard to make a variable intake with a design like that........ two plenums etc...
  9. I had a time doing this on an LD28.... I stripped everything off the motor down to the shortblock with the pan off(the world's nastiest black mess). I then crammed a wooden hammer handle in behind the #1 connecting rod and proceded to snap the hammer in two. Then I got a 2" diameter pine dowel and crammed it in there. With a cheater & breaker bar I was able to release the bolt. It still destroyed the dowel... Be sure to use a soft dowel as not to marr any internal parts. I've pulled an L24 apart in a matter of about 60 minutes to get the rods in a JY(motor still in car) but that LD28 took 3 days to pull apart on an engine stand!!!!
  10. First of all, Is this on an S30, S130, or Z31? I'll assume S30. Philbert, I do not believe that any Z car came from the factory with louvers. I suppose it may have been a dealer option somewhere, but not factory. I'll try to find a pic of how the louvers were setup on my Z. I still have the hatch so I can get pics of the 8 hole locations.
  11. The other day I was driving to school with the windows down in my truck..... My right hand was on my thigh and I begin to feel something. Next thing I know a yellowjacket crammed his stinger into my fingernail and slid along until he rammed it into the quick of my thumbnail. I flung it into the cupholder and crammed a Dairy Queen cup on top of it to restrain it as it had not completely died from my attacks. It may only be one little yellowjacket, but it freaking hurt more than most any other sting I've had. OTM
  12. How come EVERYTHING is in Stone Mountain, Ga? lol! The city is a whole 1.3 square miles.(10 miles from me)
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