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MazterDizazter

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About MazterDizazter

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  • Birthday 01/09/1986

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    Male
  • Location
    Marshfield, MA

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  1. Clive, your inbox is full. Tried to send you a PM about the L28ET. e-mail works, too! -Corey
  2. Well guys, I'm sorry to say it but I sold the Z yesterday. After 2 years of the project stagnating I decided that enough was enough. A lot happened since then; I worked as a sales rep for Audi and got to lease a 2012 S4 for 6 months... Having a brand new car absolutely spoiled it for me, and I decided that it was time to have just one project and one new car. Then the Subaru BRZ was released earlier this year and it's the first new car I've ever really wanted to own! I see it as the closest spiritual successor to the original Z car, much moreso than the overweight 370Z. I figured I had the cho
  3. Wow, that's wicked dumb. I can barely fit in a regular roof'd 240Z; I'd have to chop my head off to fit in that one! Doesn't even look good...
  4. Ooh, I wish that Z were on the east coast, I would've snatched it up in a heartbeat!
  5. Gahhhh, why do you show me these things?! Cannot afford
  6. Absolutely incredible; congratulations on such a fantastic final product! You're making me so jealous (and inspired)!
  7. If we can drum up a reasonable cost to ship those doors over here I'd definitely be interested... Maybe do a group buy or something to offset the cost. We're having a similar issue in the MK1 MR2 community where we have a manufacturer in the UK who makes what we want but shipping cost is prohibitive.
  8. The RB seems to be the best way to go if you want to stay Nissan, make 5-600hp and not modify internals. I don't know what the dimensions of the 240Z engine bay are relative to the 300ZX TT but the VG30DETT is cramped as-can-be inside the 300ZX. RB Z's make wacky power and look like they're easy enough to work on. There's tons of bolt-ons available thanks to massive support from Skyline tuners. The RB25DET would be less money and work because it comes with a RWD gearbox and oil pan, whereas the RB26DETT is as you know, all-wheel-drive only and has a front sump oil pan. I'm going L28ET wi
  9. Yeah... I dunno. I really want to keep it but it's tough because haven't had time or money to put towards it. I'm very close to having all the parts for the swap (I only need a clutch, clutch hydraulics, differential mount and mustache bar, 280Z stub axles and some other odds and ends like I/C piping and fuel system stuff), but the rest of the car needs a decent amount of work, too. Initially I put it up for sale because I saw an all-original, one-owner '73 Z with low original miles on it that I thought I wanted, but the more I think of it, do I really want a car that I can't modify, tha
  10. What "stage" SPEC did you have? I have a SPEC stage II on my MR2 and it's lasted me for years of hard abuse (mind you I'm only making 170hp/125lb/ft).
  11. Hey guys, I'm eventually going to get the L28ET swapped into my 240Z and I'm looking for suggestions for a clutch. Right now I'm looking to get the maximum power and torque from the stock turbo, whatever that may be. What would be a good fit for a street clutch? I'll only be driving the car on nice days and possibly at a few auto-x events so I don't care if it's a little harsh but I don't want an on-off switch either, so I'd like to stick to a non-puck style, sprung disc. I'll be running a Fidanza 10lb flywheel (probably too light but I have one on my daily-driver and I don't mind it), Z3
  12. I do not need heat or a/c, or even a stereo though it would be nice. I am using Autometer Phantom gauges; right now just tach, speedo, fuel level, oil pressure and water temp, and all the lights/signals/horn/wipers need to work, just basic stuff to make it street legal. I've got no carbs right now but I'm looking to get a pair of either early SU's or dual downdraft Webers. Transmission is manual. This is going to be a fair-weather weekend car only. I just want to get it running and drivable so I can enjoy it while I finish my L28ET build. Any other factors I'm missing please let me know!
  13. Hey guys, The wiring harness in my '73 was pretty hacked up and really confusing to try and make heads or tails of, so I decided to just buy another harness. I picked up a complete 260Z harness for cheap, but I need to know what needs to be done to make it compatible. I know the 260Z uses a different ignition, but that's about it. I still have my old harness, if that helps me at all. Do I need to get a 260Z distributor, coil, etc. or can I modify the harness? I don't know. Help! Please! Thank you
  14. I think you should forgo the engine swap altogether and sell it to me as-is Seriously though, gorgeous car! I think 400hp would be a much safer bet.
  15. I'm L28ET-swapping my '73 Z, and I am torn between modifying the stock fuel tank with a sump (http://www.jegs.com/i/Jegster/550/40793/10002/-1) or cutting out the spare tire well and welding in a cradle for a fuel cell (say, 15 gallons). I think that the sump will cost less overall, but the cell can be mounted higher up and further forward for more ground clearance and better weight distibution. Who has experience with either and can give me an idea as to how much I should budget for this conversion? Any and all help is appreciated; thanks!
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