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Gollum last won the day on January 17

Gollum had the most liked content!

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About Gollum

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    Tree Killer
  • Birthday 07/07/1987

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    Vacaville, CA
  • Interests
    Cars, Computers, Guitars, anything that makes music, or goes fast, or goes fast while making music!

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  1. Gollum

    Megasquirt 2 L28ET wont idle

    F54 block, stock turbo bottom end (dish pistons) MN47 head (high compression penut chamber) Non-intercooled Factory T3 D585 LS coils MS3X Ford 260cc injectors DIYautotune in-dizzy Nissan trigger disk Factory fuel pump Pallnet rail Factory FPR Any other details feel free to ask
  2. Gollum

    Megasquirt 2 L28ET wont idle

    Syncing the engine to MS: Use the "fixed advance" pull down in your ignition settings, and set to 20 degrees. Check engine with timing light and get to 20 degrees or as close as you can. Lock down distributor. Now you can switch off of fixed advanced back to table, and generally never worry about syncing again. If you're already done this at 12 degrees and felt like you had good results, then leave it be. Once you've done that sync, feel free to adjust the table to your hearts design, just err on the conservative and keep timing lower in the load regions to avoid detonation until you're ready to tackle that. For reference, here's my tune (which is far from perfect, so don't treat it as gospel, plus it's not a factory combo)
  3. Gollum

    Megasquirt 2 L28ET wont idle

    Also, look at your AFR table, It goes from 13.5 to 16:1 AFR at 30pka from 800 to 1100 rpm. That's an intense step, and will get extrapolated everywhere above idle. That 16:1 target is insanely lean imo. You wouldn't touch it stabbing the throttle wish pushes the map up, but that's still crazy close to idle range imo. That's also ASKING for detonation if you're pulling away from a slow roll in 2nd gear (like if you came up to a light turned green before you came to a stop).
  4. Gollum

    Megasquirt 2 L28ET wont idle

    Several points: Make a huge "idle area" for advance, that will save you piles of headache while you get up and running to get things running nice. I'd recommend using the L28ET factory setting of 20 degrees. Your VE table is also VERY low in the idle region. That might be fine for some engines, and some injectors, but don't be afraid of running 50+ in that region. I'd also flatten out the AFR table for the high vacuum, low PSI area until you have a known solid VE table. Never give your ECU a chance to "miss" an AFR calculation by 2 points because your VE is off and swing from 16:1 to 18:1. It's much better to push the AFR table rich everywhere, and then lean out the table once VE is known as close/reliable. Making the suggested changes, might look something like this:
  5. Gollum

    Megasquirt 2 L28ET wont idle

    In your tunerstudio projects folder you should have a "currenttune.msq" file you can add to a post by the "drag files here to attach or choose files..." feature of the forum posting window.
  6. Gollum

    Megasquirt 2 L28ET wont idle

    Any chance you can share your tune and log file(s)? If you mean it leaned out as it sat at idle and warmed up, I'd suspect you're still to lean on the VE table and WUE is to blame for the rich to lean transition. If you mean it leans out as you rev it, that could be AE being not aggressive enough (mine was WAY too mild from the base tune), or if even bringing up rev slowly causes a lean condition then either your VE table needs adjustment in those areas as well, or your Req fuel might just be really out of whack. Start by sharing tune data and some logs, and we can go from there.
  7. Gollum

    P90 + Dished or Flat Top Forged Pistons

    And there ARE people who have made 400hp on factory pistons, let alone higher end aftermarket cast pistons. Just can't over-rev it too much and keep it out of any detonation. Tunes kill turbo engines faster than any parts or lack thereof.
  8. Gollum

    Home Built Z 'Full video build'

    Also stated in the YouTube comment, I love speed bleeders. But what I didn't mention, is that you could/should use them for clutch bleeding too. Makes emergency roadside clutch bleeding far more likely to be successful.
  9. Gollum

    Daily Driver Build

    Some good points made so far. I'll just add that 20mpg is possible with any size V8, provided you can get it running lean enough in the cruise MAP/RPM range of utilization. This is much harder with a carburetor and wet manifold. Port injection EFI does wonders in this realm. And obviously general rules of MPG apply. Going 65 instead of 80 is a far simpler way of gaining 2-4mpg than swapping cams. I've seen LS swapped 240z's knocking back 30mpg highway btw... That .5 OD and modern EFI does wonders.
  10. Gollum

    Megasquirt 2 L28ET wont idle

    For what it's worth I think my crank timing is 15 and I couldn't do a distributor sync at 19 degrees locked as the engine didn't want to idle down there. I bumped it to be 20 (locked) and it was much easier to get started and synced. Put the size wherever it needs to be to get it running before bothering about perfection. As for fuel, it sounds lean. Give it more VE in the idle area and see what happens (go up by like 20% to be sure you're going past what's necessary, which should prove that you're lean). Also, try not to trust a wideband when you can't get a stable idle. Even with sequential and a perfect idle it can still be difficult to get a reliable AFR reading. Generally it's better to be too rich than lean if you're running batch fire, but most engines are also much happier to idle at 12:1 than 15.5:1. You'll also know if you have too much fuel because more throttle makes it rev readily since there's already excess fuel looking for air. That said, if you're ignition is too far off, it'll never idle, which is why I mentioned just getting the timing in the ballpark regardless of what the timing light says.
  11. Gollum

    L28ET Intake Manifold Flange Dimensions

    That's machine+material on 3dhubs.com They do printing, CNC, and injection molding. That above price is a CNC job of course.
  12. Gollum

    Is this site dead?

    I've said it more verbosely in other threads, but times are changing and I don't know what the final solution is. But there's always been a double edged sword in every forum where asking people to search just halts discussion which could potentially foster growth on a topic. Eventually you've had conversations around 90% of what people ask, and there isn't enough left to hold enough interest to keep a community going. Facebook is the antithesis of this problem. People ask a question, and people answer because there's no real capability to search back through history, so the same conversations get repeated like groundhogs day. Most projects people are following are either on instagram, youtube, or facebook. Those same people may post to forums, but it's generally because it offers at least a cleaner space to discuss things than social media comments. That said, there needs to be something in between that I have yet to see pulled off. Where useful data can to collated and consolidated, into something maybe resembling a wiki, but open discussion can happen in a more social media style format where people are encouraged to share what they're up to and follow people's stories, which generally have little to contribute to technical documentation. Social media was never intended to replace documentation, but the main value we've all had for this forum is the documentation that comes out of the hard work we pour into our projects. Where would the L community be without TimZ and JeffP? But where would that information get documented if they only ever shared their insights on facebook? But conversely, what are we all going to continue talking about in order to keep traffic up if we've written 5 million words of technical documentation and just link people to reference pages anytime a question gets asked? There's a balance somewhere, I just don't know what it looks like yet.
  13. Gollum

    Welded R180 hp limit

    Yeah... that hilariously doesn't solve the main problem, which is the sub on the hub side. That's what people break. I actually don't know that I've ever see an axle that replaces break, though I don't pretend to be any authority on that.
  14. Gollum

    Welded R180 hp limit

    Jhm is right. The stub axles can go long before the diff. I'd also point out that driveline angle kills the stub axles in short order. The famous pic of jnjdragracing doing a wheel stand on a R200 is a bit misleading. If you dig through those posts you'll see that he was really peticular about making sure ride height was set properly so the car would squat to level axles under launch, and did a great job setting the car up. If you can minimize transient squat and lift by running stiff springs and don't lower the car much at all, you'll likely be okay for a long time. Otherwise you're better off finding a shop that can make you custom one piece CV shafts end to end to minimize chance of breakage, but that's certainly not a minimal cost.
  15. Gollum

    Z Car weights

    I'm starting to be curious how light 240z doors are. My gutted '75 doors seem very light to me. Majority of the door weight is in glass and window mechansims (which I ditched).