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Gollum last won the day on December 15 2018

Gollum had the most liked content!

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About Gollum

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    Vacaville, CA
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    Cars, Computers, Guitars, anything that makes music, or goes fast, or goes fast while making music!

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  1. Gollum

    Z Car weights

    Looking back again there's less aero than my memory was serving me. He's running block plates along with radiator ducting with a tube frame radiator support. Not sure that's all that heavy. I thought it was running a full belly pan and more. I need to get my car weighed soon...
  2. Gollum

    Z Car weights

    IMO something else was going on with Mike's weight figures. There's other light 280z weights, even later years. I poured over Mike's build to find the weight when he first posted his results and the only conclusion I could come to without seeing the car myself is that not enough of the car was cut out in lieu of the cage and chassis stiffening installed. Mike also had a lot more work and weight put into aero than most which is definitely worth something that's often overlooked.
  3. Gollum

    Z Car weights

    Whoa, that's impressive. Gives me a goal to shoot for. What was your fuel tank level at? 👏
  4. Seems like threads should require moving to the FAQ by a mod though... But yeah, the post was curious. Seemed almost spam-like. "Dude, your answer is in your question".
  5. Well, here's an effort to guide/assist. What you want isn't impossible, and the compromises will only be found as you make progress. You don't really made a decision on a compromise before you start, so the key is to just start. You have a S30 you like. Does it have rust in the floor? Start there. Once you know floors are solid, adding an extra layer of underbody coating is easy as parts can all stay on. Removing interior to do inside with lizard skin and/or a mat can be done relatively easy in a weekend unless you want to remove the dash (not a bad idea, just not required for a first pass attempt imo). Tear down the doors to get those lined in something to deaden the sound (well placed dynamat works well here, just don't go crazy as 100% coverage usually just adds weight more than it reduces noise, you're just trying to kill resonance). This would also be a good time to add power windows if going that route. Also while you're looking at the doors, make sure you have door rubber in good condition, as this is a huge source of road noise. Also looking at seals, the hatch seal likely needs attention too. If you want to go a little crazy, the rear wheel well covers don't shield you much from the road noise. Adding some dynamat to the rear arches is good, but I'd also construct a secondary cover behind the rear panels that go between the wheels and tail lights, as that area picks up a lot of noise from under the car and transmits it into the cabin area. The interior panels alone do hardly anything to block that noise. While on the noise subject, don't forget that added padding/carpet thickness will also help greatly. Once these first pass noise items are done (which are also semi-affordable in the grand scheme) I'd focus on the more mechanical things you can do that don't require major downtime/parts removal. 90% of people seem to LOWER their car, and increase spring rates not just to prevent bottoming out, but reduce body roll and provide a more sporty feel. Ironically, race cars do the opposite. They run as light of a spring as they need for a given track condition, then drop the height until the scrape. They use as much travel as they can get, leaving nothing unused. To give you a more luxurious ride, off the shelf coilovers will be the opposite direction in many ways, as the dampers will have much more aggressive bound resistance. You likely want softer bound damping, with close to factory rebound, with mildly softer springs. As long as you don't add 400lbs over factory, and you don't lower it, that should be fine, but also give you a lot smoother ride. I'd also run factory size roll bars, not larger, and run them with as minimal preload as possible semi-loose with rubber bushings, not poly. And on that note. replace all your bushings, and use OEM rubber. Another item high on "feel" list imo is braking. Like steering, modern cars brake very differently. An oversized booster and master cylinder should go a long way to providing a softer pedal that acts more aggressively, not requiring as much take up travel as factory. Vented front disks wouldn't be a bad idea either, since you're already taking suspension apart. Also, in case it wasn't obvious, run a quiet tire. This means it won't be the highest performance tire, but a quiet tire goes a long way in improving road noise as well as generally softening some driving dynamics. For power steering, I'd go for the common electric assist setup. It's far simpler from an mechanical perspective as you don't need to find a powered rack and fabricate mounts for it, or find a pump and a way to put it on a given engine. And as for engines, you're not asking for too much at all. But first step, on the interim period, is putting a better muffler on your current setup. Get something that'll quiet your engine down to a whisper, then other noises will be easier to track down and reduce. But the first engine that comes to mind is the new 2.3 mustang ecoboost with the ten speed auto. It'd be a little trick to install as you'd most definitely need the factory ECU and solve the security requirements, but it's not impossible. But it'd be far quieter, make significantly more power, and have a transmissions that FEELS like a luxury car by comparison. Oh, and it should easily get you 30-35 highway mpg. Speaking of MPG... Better aero will actually help noise. Use headlight covers. Block off as much of the airflow AROUND the radiator as possible. Get a seal between the radiator and the support, add a seal on top of the radiator core support between the hood. Build a belly pan for the engine bay. Reducing this airflow into and through the engine bay will reduce wind noise that ends up getting heard through the firewall. At some point, you'll end up being able to hear wind noise around the mirrors. Get aerodynamic mirrors. Also, make a rear pan might be beneficial from an aero noise perspective as well. Sharp edges like the rear panel below the bumper will catch air and create noise. Same goes for the underside of the floorpan. While making a 5 piece belly pan might not have documented downforce figures, I'm quite sure you can end up reducing a fair bit of road noise, and it's not very expensive from a materials side, just a lot of time and energy. Also, once noise levels are low, I'd do testing with tape on items like the drip rails to see what else is making noise at high speed something as simple as the inlets on the cowl panel might be making a lot more noise than you realize, but don't hear in the car's current trim. At the end of the day, all of this comes down to "start with the obvious" and work your way around the problem. Don't assume you need to cut the body apart and put it on top of a E36 in order to achieve your goals. A S30 CAN be quiet at speed. It can also drive REALLY nice when done right. Also remember that these cars didn't rattle, slam, and pop from the factory. A lot of your current noise is just "restoration" work that needs to be done.
  6. Because I'm evil. https://www.cargurus.com/Cars/inventorylisting/viewDetailsFilterViewInventoryListing.action?sourceContext=carGurusHomePage_false_0&entitySelectingHelper.selectedEntity=d2209&entitySelectingHelper.selectedEntity2=&zip=95696#listing=224779223
  7. I've driven a 240z that was close to what you wanted. Power steering, ice cold AC. Power windows. Could hold a conversation at a near whisper on the highway. Main difference is that he was still running a L engine and the interior was mostly original (or original looking). Guy had 30k+ in the car and thousands of hours. Heavy as a pig for a 240z, and was probably a whopping 130 whp. But it sure was pretty and a nice "take the lady out" car. I can think of a lot of cars I'd rather have if spending that kind of money though, ignoring time completely.
  8. Gollum

    L28, need a bigger turbo, which one?

    A quick spool valve is when you have a divided entry or twin scroll (not necessarily the same thing btw) , turbine housing against a single exit manifold, and you put a butterfly valve between the turbo and manifold. Under no boost you close one side, so all exhaust gasses are directed to half of the divided entry to the turbine, which semi-fakes reducing the AR. Then at some set boost point you open the valve to open up the turbine fully. It's not ideal, but it's well documented to help in a measurable way. What the valve looks like: And an ideal improvement: Obviously RPM improvement will be better in higher gears since it's a time-based improvement, not directly engine flow coupled/based. And if you're trying to spin a turbo that's not making full boost until 6k rpm anyway, this isn't going to magically get you to minimum boost in half the RPM off the line. But what it WILL do, is dramatically improve initial boost response on a mild (less than 2 bar) when using a larger turbine AR when you're trying to get peak HP out of a turbo. This isn't of any real use when you're already on a smaller AR for a given turbo, or if you're running such huge amounts of boost you're in the borderline "should be running a compound to spool that sucker" territory. Some argue that a proper twin scroll manifold paired with the quality twin scroll turbine wouldn't see any net benefit from this. But I'd argue that niether the quick spool valve or twin scroll design are essential to winning races, and I've seen plenty of record setting pro cars use neither. In the drag world especially, there seems to be little focus on the turbo itself when looking at how to get the turbo spooled up and on the stall.
  9. Gollum

    L28, need a bigger turbo, which one?

    Well, turbos don't really care about any details of the engine they're attached to. You can generally compare A turbo to B turbo and even if your engine input is different, you can compare the differences between turbos. And now that I see you're looking at the SX line, specifically the S300SX3 the limitations become a bit more obvious. If you switched over to the SX-E BW turbos you'd likely be $200 or so high in price, but you'd have a lot more turbine housing options. That said, the S300SX3 should compare nicely to a GTX of similar size (likely a touch better transients actually). But it certainly won't be like the EFR series. That said, switching to a twin scroll or maybe even a divided housing might see some meaningful gains in spool as well. This is part of the challenge (fun?) of turbos. There's so many ways to improve the main drawbacks but they all take time/money/energy. I can see and understand why so many people just run "simplier" old school large turbos and feed it some nitrous. Works fine on a drag strip, just hard to maintain low bottle usage when on a circuit. Looking at the data log again, you're losing boost in the last 1k or so RPM before shifting. You would probably make more peak power going to a larger AR turbine housing. So it's hard to recommend an even larger compressor wheel WITHOUT going up in turbine AR. I'd consider at least a simple hack like a quick spool valve to try to improve that low end response when stepping up to something larger.
  10. Gollum

    L28, need a bigger turbo, which one?

    Well, if you're talking about the EFR line, and you can get one for $600, then that's a no-brainer. As far as what to get, it's easy to say get the most modern design you can, as they promise the world when it comes to spool and power-per-diameter. And there's some truth there. But let's break out an exaggerated example to help show why some people end up unimpressed by dumping all their money for the latest model. If a 65mm compressor is rated to flow 50lb/s with a peak efficiency of 70%, and the same company comes out with an updated version with a stronger billet wheel, and better aero and now makes a 55mm compressor that's rated to flow 50lb/s with a peak efficiency of 70%, which will spool better? Everyone will say that the smaller one will, because it's smaller and will have less inertia to get going. But the problem with that assumption, is that the compressors are rated to the same efficiency. If "all things were equal" and the smaller turbine flowed the same air, then the efficiency WOULD GO UP. At the end of the day, the smaller wheel as better aero, and thus packs more air per rotation (or the same amount per second as the larger one) which means it takes MORE effort to spin the smaller one per MM of diameter per second. Efficiency ratings on compressor maps take inertia into account, which is why on the compressor side of the turbo you should care a lot more about targeting a wheel that you'll not be way off the map with. Now, the turbine side is where all the secret sauce is. A lot of people will go on and on about the material density/weight of the EFR turbos and point to that as the silver bullet as to why they spool so fast. Maybe they're right, but I have a feeling that just like the compressor, blade design is likely just as important. Garrett seems to be all about the temp ratings on the marketing side of the house, and it does indicate a form of reliability which scared EFR's early years with several shattered turbines with a material known to be brittle... Those reports seem to have calmed, and plenty of people run them in competition to prove they're not made of glass. So you be the judge. Personally, instead of getting caught up in marketing hype, I try to find real world A/B tests comparing spool time and power. We're finally seeing some initial tests of the new Garrett G series which look promising. People are getting 400+whp out of the G-660, and I'd like to see the same power figures for the G-550 since the power rating seems slightly lofty for the compressor map max flow ratings, but time will tell. Sadly for you though, the G-660 is likely a touch small for where you're heading in power, but I'm betting it'd spool a TON faster. Also, if you can get a few different housings to play around with, it's worth seeing if you ACTUALLY gain anything up top from a larger turbine AR housing. If not, then run the smallest AR you can, and if needed vent charge air to prevent surge. Could likely have a turbo at full RPM off the line if done right. No, putting that power down? I'll leave that up to you. You seem to have a lot of this stuff figured out already. Speaking of, I'm impressed all around by what you've put together. And on that note, upgrading those injectors soon? Looks like you're touching 80% so more power will be rough on your duty.
  11. Gollum

    Gollum's DD L28ET 75'

    Welp, a large step forward has been made: And then of course it's rained all weekend, nonstop. But on the upside, my 20-30KPA 800-4500RPM cells are a lot more on the money than they used to be. And for those curious, my pre-adjusted startup AFRs on the Spartan were 13.3 and 16.6. So I guess my wiring is pretty solid! (for those unaware, the spartan wideband outputs calibration voltages so you can compensate for the common ground offsets, or even potential regulated 5v offsets in the wideband controller versus ECU). I also got some mics in for doing detonation frequency testing... Stay tuned (get it?)
  12. Gollum

    Mustang turbo 4 Engine

    Yeah, PATS can be disabled. Some engine wreckers even offer that as a service when you buy an engine from them. The ford performance kit I linked wouldn't have that issue.
  13. Gollum

    Mustang turbo 4 Engine

    My one concern with going standalone with these engines, and swapping in general is that they're direct injection. Not sure how difficult it would be to retrofit an existing fuel system for DI usage and try to tune with an alternate ECU. EDIT: And also, this is a thing: https://performanceparts.ford.com/part/M-6017-23T I don't think you'll get a DBW standalone + Harness + Throttle Pedal + misc parts that kid comes with for less money. You'd still be left needing the capability to tune it, but it's hard to ignore the plug in and go allure of something like that kit.
  14. Gollum

    Mustang turbo 4 Engine

    Yeah, aftermarket rods are certainly already a thing, hence why there's already 9 second ecoboost mustangs. And yes, we're fortunate. A quick glace at ONE national wrecker, there's 11 2015+ ecoboost mustangs with manuals up for auction: https://www.copart.com/vehicleFinderSearch/?displayStr=Ford,MUSTANG,[2015 TO 2020]&from=%2FvehicleFinder%2F&searchStr={"MISC":["%23MakeCode:FORD OR %23MakeDesc:Ford","%23LotModel:MUSTANG","%23VehicleTypeCode:VEHTYPE_V","%23LotYear:[2015 TO 2020]"],"sortByZip":false,"buyerEnteredZip":null}&searchCriteria={"query":["MUSTANG"],"filter":{"ENGN":["engine:\"2.3L 4\""],"MISC":["%23MakeCode:FORD OR %23MakeDesc:Ford","%23VehicleTypeCode:VEHTYPE_V","%23LotYear:[2015 TO 2020]"],"TMTP":["transmission_type:\"MANUAL\""]},"sort":["auction_date_type desc","auction_date_utc asc"],"watchListOnly":false,"searchName":"","freeFormSearch":false} Of course there's also the ebay sources of wreckers pulling engines and shipping them, but then you're likely going to need to source a harness+ECU and who knows what else is missing. Most of those are also currently sans transmission. Those seem to be selling around 2-3k which means a running engine + trans is certainly attainable under 5k, which isn't far off from what SR20's are going for these days...