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yoshi_w

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  1. Yea, I have the Des Hammill book where I got the info about how many turns out the idle mixture screw should be. Given that its seems to be too lean at idle, I doubt less turns would help the situation. There is no vac line to the distributor, but there is no open ports on the manifold for that anyhow. The vac line to the booster is hooked up. I realized I could be wrong in regards to the choke so I'll have to double check that. In regards to power, its an L28 with flat top pistons and a mild performance cam, so hopefully I'll be able to take a little more advantage of them than just a stock engine. We shall see though. Thanks for the input.
  2. Hey guys, I got something out of the blue and hoping a random angel-sent individual will have some sort of assistance for me. I recently installed triple Dellorto dhla 40's on my engine via an SK manifold. The engine specs as follows: stock l28 bottom end with the exception of flat top pistons. The head is a rebuilt N42 head with a mild Rebello cam. The carbs have 38mm choke, 132 mains, 33 pump jets, 7772.8 emulsion tube, 210 air correctors, and 58 Idle jets. I should note that the engine ran with SU's (SU's were replaced with triples due to leaking throttle shaft) Replaced parts: plug wires, ngk bpr6es plugs, carbs were resealed, also rechecked all bolts With that out of the way, I am having much difficulty keeping the engine idling. I have tried backing out the Idle mixture screws 3.5 turns through 6 turns, and it still won't idle. If i give it a couple pumps, it will idle only for a second. I have checked for vacuum leaks but can't find any. I can keep it alive by giving it gas, which means its somehow not rich enough at idle. The idle jets seem pretty big, so is it just a simple vacuum leak that I am somehow missing, or is it something else?
  3. The bits inside that are what I'm trying to change over to the new top cover.
  4. Hey all, I have triple Dellorto dhla's,but I had to switch the top cover on one due to the person I purchased them from failing to notify me of a broken float pin arm. Anyhow, I switched everything over except I can't figure out how to swap over the fuel enrichment device. I removed the nut holding on the linkage, and the cap on top as well as the spring that presses on the piston, but I can get out that piston or the arm where the linkage slides on. If anybody has any idea how to switch this over I'd greatly appreciate it. I know that they don't need to be used, but I do need to have it there on the new top cover. Thanks for any help.
  5. Hi, so I've been reading all the forum posts about wiper wiring, looked at multiple wiring diagrams, but I am still at a loss. I have a 1973 240z that I've rewired using the ez wire kit, and the wipers are the last thing I need to hook up. I am no longer using the column mounted switch and don't know if I should use a on-off-on switch, or a rotary switch. Additionally, I am using a civic wiper motor. I am determined to keep the setup without the column switch and with the civic wiper motor and I'm very stubborn so I need to somehow make this work. I also don't mind if they don't park, I can time that myself and am trying to keep wiring as simplistic as possible. From my understanding, the wiper motor gets constant power, then the switch is based off the ground. This is where I get confused as the civic wiper motor has a black wire which I understand as the ground, so does this need to go to the switch somehow? Then this leads to the question of the switches, the rotary style I have has a post for battery, low, high, and park. Would the on-off-on switch be better for my requirements? Please help! If you read this whole thing I am grateful, and if someone could just draw me up a quickie wiring diagram or something I would be indebted to you, thanks!
  6. Hi, I was wondering if anyone has tried putting porsche 914 seats into a 240z? and what were the difficulties? thanks!
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