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Hello everyone. Not a huge issue here but just looking for some opinions. When my car is warmed up and idleing it cuts power to the fuel pump randomly and speratically. Occationally causing it to stall. It is only for a split second however sometimes it happens a few times in a row. If i rev it up by even 100 rpms it seems to go away. Im thinking either circuit board problems, bad settings, or bad connections

I have recently rebuilt the VG30E that is in my 1985 300zx, NA and automatic. It was a stock rebuild with a rebuild kit except for the cams, which were replaced by a Wolf Technologies AZ314-000S1. Because of the new cams I also opted for a 1987 ECCS with JECS#: A18-679 M83 with nistune installed. The engine has been assembled for a couple weeks now and it's still having problems. It will fire and it seems like the timing isn't set right. We have gotten it to run long enough to hopefully break in the cams, but it has rpm fluctuations under throttle and wont idle. The current thinking is that there is a problem between the new ECCS and the 1985 wiring harness but we have tried changing some pins that we thought were incorrect, like the injector wiring into the ECCS, and it performed worse after. We are back where we started. There is also a possible problem with stock map installed with the nistune software and whether or not that is affecting it. We are using the stock bin file for a 1988 NA automatic and don't know if that could be causing a issue Any help or advice would be much appreciated. If there's anything else that would help find a solution, please ask and I'd be happy to answer.

Hey guys, I'm having idle issues where I can't keep the car running and it never seems to want to catch. Either it runs too rich and dies or runs too lean and runs very badly. I have to keep steady pressure on the throttle to keep it from dying. Clearly that means that I need more air, so I would lower my VE values and it wouldn't seem to help any. The car ran better and would actually idle around 600rpm with all the idle valves on the plenum, but none of them were wired up. I've since took them all out, as well as the egr valve, and blocked all the holes off. I have my tune and a few datalogs. The datalog labeled IDLE(not idle1 or idle2) is when the car had the idle valves on the car but not wired up to anything. The others are without the idle valves. My injector PW seems very jumpy as well as the dead time. I have them grounded directly to the MS. They are low z injectors so I chose to limit the current in TunerStudios instead of using drop resistors. I made sure no ground wire or sensor wire was in contact with any noise issues(dizzy, spark plug wires, coil). I messed with the ASE and WUE to try and stabalize my afr's and keep the damn thing running, but I've had no luck with it so far. I have an MS2/Extra v3.57 Firmware 3.3.0 straight from DIY. CurrentTune1.zip idle.zip idle1.zip idle3.zip

Hey guys, I got something out of the blue and hoping a random angel-sent individual will have some sort of assistance for me. I recently installed triple Dellorto dhla 40's on my engine via an SK manifold. The engine specs as follows: stock l28 bottom end with the exception of flat top pistons. The head is a rebuilt N42 head with a mild Rebello cam. The carbs have 38mm choke, 132 mains, 33 pump jets, 7772.8 emulsion tube, 210 air correctors, and 58 Idle jets. I should note that the engine ran with SU's (SU's were replaced with triples due to leaking throttle shaft) Replaced parts: plug wires, ngk bpr6es plugs, carbs were resealed, also rechecked all bolts With that out of the way, I am having much difficulty keeping the engine idling. I have tried backing out the Idle mixture screws 3.5 turns through 6 turns, and it still won't idle. If i give it a couple pumps, it will idle only for a second. I have checked for vacuum leaks but can't find any. I can keep it alive by giving it gas, which means its somehow not rich enough at idle. The idle jets seem pretty big, so is it just a simple vacuum leak that I am somehow missing, or is it something else?

Doing a slow restore on a 72 240 i picked up. Weber 45s were having some trouble sneezing and leaking so took them off to clean em up and replace gaskets, set floats etc. Noticed these adjustment screws which i find no mention of in Haynes manual, or any online reference ive found. These are the later 152s with nitrophyl/spansil floats so im thinking it was a modification on later models? has a white plastic hat/cover. one on each throat. with plastic cover removed needle screw with fastener nut needle pokes through main venturu/choke into carb throat (upper right)

Hi everyone, I've had an issue with my Z for a while which hasn't really been a big deal but I figured I should probably figure out what it is in case it does turn into an issue that could be prevented. Every so often when I start my car, it idles rough (usually between 500-700rpm), shudders, and bogs down. It loses quite a bit of power until I drive it for a bit. After that, it's fine. It's happened with the engine hot and cold. Part of me wants to say that it seems to be the symptoms of the cold start injector firing when it doesn't need to, but I'm not sure. Any advice is appreciated. Thanks, Pac Man