neilbey

So looks like the calipers are seized. Sucks. Send them back or get a partial refund to have them rebuilt... Got the dash off today. Update on the mystery hose.... The the spout that comes out of the vacuum cock was completely open (the spout under the dash that I plugged up). Where that hose would feed to the heater core, was where the mystery hose was coming out of (out of where the water cock is). Come to find out, looks like this was done because A: the vacuum lines were all fucked up under the dash (I mean **** that had tee connections coming out of it that should not have had them and ;lines going to nowhere); and B: the actuator cable for the water cock doesn't seem to be working properly and will get stuck open (which I've temporarily fixed with a bicycle spoke sticking out of the mystery hose hole that I can pull on to close it). So to summarize, this mystery hose was to reroute the heater core hosing and bypass the vacuum cock. I will be the first to say that this was an undertaking... Still going. They hide so much crap under there!

Got my toyota calipers mounted! There's a problem though. They are dragging badly. I had to force the pads back in there. Am I supposed to be using a different brake pad with these things? The stock toyota ones seem really thick. Is there a different pad to use with the toyota calipers maybe?

I have not removed anything yet. That was what I was originally trying to do (what you did), but for the life of me, couldn't find the 75 stock tach signal wire under the dash (only the wire at the coil that fed the tach signal) I did try to wire it without the 83zxt resistor, coil-->stock 75 signal wire at the coil-->tach, but it would kill the engine. I'll try it again. I must have had a wire shorting out or something. Bare in mind, I have an aftermarket coil as well, not the stock 280zxt coil. Another note: just ordered my baddogparts.com frame rails and a walbro inline fuel pump rated at 255lph. The rails look to be of great quality, and at a fraction of the price of what other companies are selling them for. Break out the wire wheel and cutting tools - the cure-all for car cancer! I haven't seen too many people on this forum who have used them, I will post before and after pics for everyone to see. I've also got some rust holes on the front quarter panels too that I will eventually cut out (once I can source a MIG welder). I've seen people use sheet metal from old washers. Will this work? I've got an 83 parts car that I suppose I can just scavange off of.

Thanks for the replies. I will get cracking on the temp gauge as soon as I'm near the car. About the hose though, I figured that wasn't supposed to be there. There was water leaking under the dash too. I did some prodding and it turns out that there's an outlet/inlet for a water hose that was disconnected - really not sure which one without removing the dash. Plugged that for the time being. I definitely think there's something funky under the dash. Sigh... Dash removal is my LEAST favourite thing to do. While I'm in there though, I'll probably install a boost gauge in place of the non-working clock. The tach is jumping from zero to whatever the revs are at the time - basically acting erratic. I have the tach hooked up from the coil, to the stock 83t resistor for the tach on the harness, to the stock tach wire on the 75 ignition harness (didn't want to separate it from the headlight harness). Is this the right way to do it? Because when I hooked the stock 75 tach wire to the coil, it didn't work and killed the ignition (by killed, I mean stopped the ignitor from creating spark and stopping the engine) Should I just hook up the stock 75 tach via a radioshock resistor to the coil? What resistor would be needed?

Ok I think I understand now... Where would the yellow wire be spliced into? I'm scouring the wiring diagrams and can't seem to find anything.

Thanks for the information! Helps tremendously. Oil pressure is working now. It's not the vacuum line I was talking about in question 3, but the water hose that comes out of the same hole as that vacuum line (it's got a pretty new worm clamp on the end). Like I said, it's probably a really stupid question, but I can't find anything pertaining to THAT water hose. I'm assuming it T's into one of the other hoses. Question 4: I'm not using the stock 75 fuel pump relay. It's unplugged. I've got the fuel pump relay from the 83 turbo rewired under the dash and then that other relay on the passenger side that comes out of the same side of the EFI loom as the EFI harness connector that has 1 black wire, 2 black and white wires and a brown (or orange wire). What is that relay for?

I've performed an 83 turbo swap into my 75 280z. The car is running great, however, I now need to go through the various sensors and bugs to get everything 100%. I've done the searching and can't find a definitive answer. 1st question: I swapped the oil pressure sensor from the 75 block to the 83 block in the car and hooked up the stock 75 harness oil pressure wire to the nipple on the sensor (teehee... nipple...), but still don't get any pressure reading. Is this the correct way of doing this? The pressure sensor seemed like it was on it's way out any way, but I just wanted to verify I'm doing it correctly before splashing out more bucks. 2nd question: the water temperature sensor still needs to be hooked up. All I have down there is the stock harness with the wires for the water temperature and the stock 83 water temperature sensor attached to the block (or hose.. I don't have the car in front of me right now). Is it merely just a plug and play affair? 3rd question: And this is probably a stupid one. I've got the heater core hoses all hooked up correctly, but there's this other hose coming out of the firewall just above the heater core hoses and I have no idea where it goes. I can't seem to find anything in the FSM about it. I'm assuming it has something to do with the coolant system because when the engine had been running for a bit, coolant started to pour out of it (I'm assuming it's got something to do with the thermostat opening up) Does this need to T into one of the other hoses? 4th Question: The Relay that was hidden inside the passanger side fender well on the 83. I'm not entirely sure what it's called, but it has something to do with getting charge/signal to the fuel pump relay. Now because of this relay, my fuel pump works intermitently. Sometimes the fuel pump relay will just repeatively click, sometimes randomly, sometimes not at all, and sometimes flawlessly. It's not the fuel pump relay, it's this other relay causing this. I replaced it with other relays that I knew were working. I tried heating it with the heat gun (it was cold outside) and viola! It works! What could be causing this to happen? And how would one go about fixing it? Thanks in advance! This site has proved invaluable to getting me this far on the swap. Looking forward to posting some pictures and vids!

For anyone that had or has questions about the run on problem, I found some extra information at these links: http://www.zcarcreations.com/howto/voltreg.htm http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/alternatorswap/index.html I now have a car that shuts off when I tell it to!

For the many people that are following this thread... Tried bolting up the stock 83 turbo driveshaft into the 75, and it worked... No cutting. Nothing. Now I'm not sure if I'm a special case and just happened to have a different differential flange, but this could be a good little tidbit of information for anybody in the future. Peace

Well, took the driveshafts out of both cars, and it turns out the differential flange on both are the same. So all I have to do is cut the 280zx turbo shaft down a smidge. Would still like an actual figure on how much I need to cut it down though.

Hi guys, Never posted, but here it goes: I'm in the process of swapping in an 83 turbo motor and T5 trans into a 75 280z. Unfortunantely, the online swap guides that I've seen had nothing in there about driveshafts and lengths. Now I understand that the front input shaft on the stock driveshaft needs to be changed to the T5 input shaft; my question is this though: I will be taking the T5 driveshaft and Stock 280z driveshaft into the shop to have the input shaft swapped over. I read that the length of the driveshaft will have to be shortened about an inch as well. Can anyone confirm this with a measurement - i.e. a measurement from yoke pin to yoke pin that's part of the actual driveshaft? And please specify whether that's center to center or end to end measurement. Appreciate all the information you guys have put on here. It's definitely helped me tremendously so far.