chuckles

Just so you know your instructions work fine. Thanks..

Yep the 8920 is what works.

Hey nigel, did you ever have any issues with the tach on this after you removed the resistor from the tach circuit?

yeah, it's a challenge to find leaks sometimes, and many of the a/c shops have slackers working in them. I think you get your own refrig detector from harbor freight for less than 50 bucks... Might be an idea?

This thread illustrates why I always try to put back in, what the system was designed to run with originally. Even if it requires R12. It's cheaper IMO to fix the leaks, and repair the system, and recharge with R12, than it is to convert it to some pieced together ineffecient system. If you go to that, you might as well replace the entire system with one that was designed for the refrigerant you want to use.

Yeah, it's a HC (Hydrocarbon) based refrigerant. These work ok, and the head pressures are nice and low, but the charging is tricky, and you sight glass never looks right, and they don't work as well with older TXV type systems like the Datsuns. OT type systems work pretty well in. Least from my experience.

yeah, it's a 97.... nevermind.

You can get R12 on Ebay.. http://www.ebay.com/...erant&_osacat=0 If you can fix the leak, and the system only needs a couple cans, it's much cheaper to fix then retrofit it.

that universal stuff is crap.. Get what it was designed for. I've tried that for R12 and 134A systems and it never really works that well.

20 bucks I have two, one old style for E31 head, and one newer style for 77MY 280 with NM47 head. I'm going to use one of them, not sure which one though. I think either will work, seems the newer one is a complete stamped unit, whereas the earlier version is modular.

Got one from a old L24? Would that work?

update. 240 engine was trashed. The bores were completely rusted and would take 120 or so to clean them up. So I got a great deal from Dave Rebello on a 3.0 stroker setup. I send him the N42 block, E31 head, and 240 rods. He works his magic and sends back. Then I will assemble the engine and away we go. Estimates are around 250 to 275 hp with SU's. Chekcing on Bore Bore pricing for SU's today.

Thanks, I need as much luck as possible!!

Hey guys, been a bit since was here. I'm starting in on the 2.4/2.8 engine work in about a week, so I'll let you guys know what I find on the 2.4, and if it's complete toast.

This is s 4/71 build, so maybe it's OEM.

Forgive me for being new. Who is Norm? Also I found out today, that my 2.4 is a P30 block with E31 head... ?? 71 block with 70 head..hmmm My 2.8 is actually a N42 block with N47(emissions) head, so not sure now if it's worth messing with. I guess it would depend on how much work is needed to fix up a N47 head?

just subscribing. Nice write up!

You know you own a Datsun when you spend more time with her, than most of your girlfriends. You know you own a Datsun when your idea of a good grinding session does not involve your girlfriend

ok so what is more reasonable rwhp number?? 200, 220?? The turbo is an idea but does require more work in regards to wiring and sourcing a donor vehicle. Let's say I gave you the parts I have and 3K, what can I get for that?

Ok goals, 180+ RWHP More is better, but I'm attempting to be realistic here. Pump gas (93 Octane is fine) 3K on top of the existing parts I have since they are essentially free. I'm open to induction types. Turbo, EFI, or Carb is fine, I can work with any. Usually with Turbo, I assume it's best to start with Turbo longblock as the basis. Bang for buck is what I'm looking for. Thanks, Charles

With 9.5 CR, what kind of total timing are we talking about? 28, 35, 38?

Hmm, seems with the N42 head, you either have 11+ CR, or 9.5 and down, not much in the 10:1 range with N42 head. I need to go double check that head and make sure its N42.

Hi all, New here, been lurking for quite some time. Here is my story. Been a z-car nut since I was a teenager. 280zx was my first car. Now 36, I have had some sort of "Z" ever since. My current one is a 4/71 Series 2 240z. It's been in the "restoration" phase for say 14 years now..... Actually been in warehouse for almost 10 years in a 100 pcs. So far new interior, new paint, new suspension, new rubber, and cleaned and refinished almost every part on the car. Complete undercarriage detail, etc. Now this is not a 100 pt restoration. Just a clean, refreshed car. Here is my issue. In the time this was all being done, the poor L24 sat and languished in the weather for 8+ years.... So now it's a ball of rust.. Don't know specifics yet, but pretty sure the cylinders are rusted. Engine was sealed up, and up to about 6 months ago, all was fine, but the engine was moved, and one of seals was broken and moisture got and in did the rest. The SU's actually seem ok (need to be polished and rebuilt of course). Has E31 Head on it But.. I also have a 77 or 78 vintage 2.8 liter with N47(edit) head from a 2+2 complete with EFI manifold, injectors, sensors, etc. Does not have ECM or harness, fuel pump, tank, etc. I do have the matching 5 speed tranny, R200 rear end, half shafts, mustache bar, etc. Also have the 2+2 clutch and flywheel. I'm budget oriented on this build since i like to re-use as much as possible, and not have a bunch of leftover stuff. So with the parts on hand, what can be done? Keep this in mind. I am former BMW tech and ASE Master Tech, so I'm very familiar with all aspects of automotive systems, and EFI systems, etc, etc. But, I am not an engineer, or tuning expert, since I mainly worked on OEM auto with EFI, all that was left to the ECM. Basically all the build up of the engine I can do, as I have the space and the tools. I do not have a machine shop, so that part would have to outsourced. Also in Shreveport LA, so my choice of good, race oriented machine shops is limited. Dallas is closest big city. From my reading, I assume I can use the 2.8 block, bore it, source a LD28 crank, use the rods, intake, distributor (converted to pointless) and SU's from the 2.4, and make some sort of Stroker engine. I also assume I can mate this up the 4 speed for now with factory r180 rear end just to see how well it all works. Thoughts and suggestions are appreciated. Regards, Charles

correct me if I'm wrong, but aren't cams ground for turbo cars totally different than ones for a NA car? Is this a NA or Turbo cam? Don't know what Bill was running, but I assume 14.70 in the 1/4 was not with a turbo motor and cam in a 240. I could see that with na 2.4.