ll77

I have a 76 280z that runs rough, lacks power, and is quite gas-inefficient. I checked my air temp sensor and water temp sensor w/ a multimeter, and they read acceptably. I hooked up a vacuum gauge with a T at the FPR vac line, and these were the results: ~10.5 in Hg @ 800 rpm (not jumpy, but twitchy) (I don't have a tachometer yet, sorry) drops to ~4.5 in as throttle is applied raises back to ~10 in to WOT up to ~20 in @ throttle release Fuel pressure (gauge is not very accurate) 39 psi (idle)- 42/43 psi (throttle applied) I tried messing with the AFM (PO put wrong one on the car)- gave it more fuel while also decreasing idle back to 800 rpm (my dad was screaming the tach reading to me over the exhaust hahaha) and my vacuum started drifting steadily between 15-17 inches, which would be more acceptable. I don't have any big irregularities except for the fact that the vacuum is SO LOW, and I understand that is causing my very high fuel pressure. I checked my valve timing, I cranked the crank pulley till the timing mark was at 0 deg BTDC, so TDC. Weird side note: my intake/exhaust cam lobes were making 11:15, if the intake were the hour hand and exhaust was the minute hand (relative to timing chain). Also the dizzy was pointing underneath the upper radiator hose, looked as if it were already touching the #1 plug wire contact. That don't seem right. So anyways, I looked to the marks on the cam sprocket, and the triangle was waaaay to the EDIT**right of the mark. So I'm too advanced, I wonder how that happened. Then I decided to look at my PCV valve, so I popped off the hose under the BCDD going to the intake manifold, nothing there! Just a bunch of carbon. Whaatt? I need a PCV valve. SOO, I've gathered I need to adjust my valve timing, and the right model AFM would help too, yeah? What do you guys gather from this? Thanks a bunch for any input!

Sorry, I don't want a rebuilt/ remanufactured one. I would prefer one from JECS, but I am flexible on that.

Yes, I would like pictures of it, and also of the sticker on it please, thank you.

Thanks for all the advice guys, I'll be doing some new tests today. I've realized it is slow to warm up.. hmmm. Zentech and Nash, I've emailed and PM'd.

Oh yeah that's what I meant, but the previous owner got it from MSA. I've read so on the internet.

HC and NOx were well within limits, CO was through the roof, Co2 was 11.9% @ 15 mph and 12.2% @ 25 mph I have no clue where the original one is, and I have no clue why the PO would swap in the wrong one for it. My worst fear is if I get one and it doesn't fix the problem. Strange thing is, it passed with flying colors 9 yrs ago, back when it was still an automatic..

Fuel pressure seemed to be a little high, I replaced the pressure regulator and there were no kinks or clogs. Fuel pump had been replaced a while back, so my conclusion was the gauge was off a bit haha. So I did all that just for good measure I guess. TPS was professionally adjusted, although I can't hear a difference with it disconnected. I went through the EFI manual circuit tests, everything ok. I went to a CA gold shield certified station and they said my AFM wasn't doing its job right, so I am convinced it's the AFM. I have adjusted the wheel to the leaner side, and it did feel better, but it still wasn't passing. Also, mine is one of those rebuilt MSA ones and all I've heard is that those are bad news. But thanks for the link. If anyone has one, please let me know.

My car will not pass smog, and runs rough. It is running very rich, and gas mileage is quite poor. My AFM part no. is a31-626-000, which MSA says is for a 78.

Hi everyone, I have a mismatched AFM and I'm in the market for the right one. MSA tells me the right one for 76 is part no. a31-060-001 But I'm nervous that the ECU could have been swapped too, since the PO messed around a lot. So if you can offer insight into which AFM will function properly with ECU part no. a11-600-000, please do and I'd appreciate it. If not, then I'm looking for a31-060-001 please, thank you. EDIT: Part no. has been confirmed to be a match. Thanks newzed. Oh yes, and please NO REBUILT AFM's.

Yeah so I finally got some crappy pics How it looked: This is the old seal, the orange stuff is rtv Front (engine side) Rear (drive shaft side) I thought it was cool that it had a metal band inside to snug it on the shaft it took me a week and a half to get it right, I didn't want to use to much rtv, but it kept leaking. It still leaks, but within a tolerable amount. I guess it will stay that way until I can fix the transmission So my teacher says that I may be able to replace the tail shaft quite easily, way he told me it sounded like a bolt on process. And it looks as though it could be pretty easy with the driveshaft and shifter off. Any words on this?

Hi guys My transmission has been leaking from the rear so I dropped my driveshaft to change the rear seal. There was a shitload of rtv on the seal, and when I cleared all the rtv, I saw that the metal part that holds the seal on the transmission is severely chipped. What is this called, and is it easily replaceable? The transmission is in the car right now. Thanks.

sounds reasonable. but i have to go to work now ttyl.

I don't think the 260 one fits.. haha noooo why'd you throw it away mann? Could've given it to mee!

Ok yeah let me know. So it won't come w/ a muffler?

I am looking for a complete stock 280z exhaust below the manifold to the muffler (not including manifold). I want it shipped, unless you live really close to me (Alameda CA 94501). PM me if you have anything. Thank you!