go 260z

🤫 after almost a decade, I am back on my 1974 260Z. I hand Renu restore the gas tank, flushed all the lines, put in new gas and reinstalled the battery. Now the fun started? I turned the key and NOTHING😪. This has happened before and I want to find the source and correct it. I read a thread that suggested I remove the interlocking unit completely and jumper the by to the br wires in the interlock relay. That didn’t help so I read 280z with 383’s post of 5/29/07 titled “ engine won’t start/run “ in troubleshooting and here are my findings. 1) when I checked the voltage at the solenoid I had zero, I then broke out my trusty remote starter button, hocked it up to the solenoid and positive.battery and the engine started up. 2) when I just turned the ignition switch to start, a relay in the passenger footwell clicks but that is all. I removed the ignition switch and checked the voltage in the wiring harness. Constant power is 12.22. , put jumper from power to ACC wire and got 12.09, moved the jumper to starter relay and got 9.06, moved the jumper to ignition switch wire got 9.95, moved the jumper to coil positive wire and got 2.9 ( and my jumper got hot) Measured voltage at coil when the jumper was on and had 5.4 on positive side to ground?? 3) With the engine running, the voltage at the coil was fluctuating from 9.7 to 10.2 4) With the ignition on but the engine not running, I measured voltage at Resistor next to coil and got 7.45 on wb, 8.45 on bw, and 10.8 on bw all to ground 5) Three other weird electrical phenomena........none of the dash lights except the glove box light illuminate, the motor will not start with the combo switch turned on but will not kill the engine if the lights are turned on after it starts.......if a turn signal is flashing and you turn on the fourways, none of the lights work!! Not great on auto electrics so, sure could use some help.🙏🛠

I also discovered that my transitorized igition unit was shorted. I replaced it last weekend with a crane xr700 and a new fireball ps40 coil, now there is a strong spark every time....Next problem is no gas coming from the carbs, she will only start if i put starting fluid in the carbs. I am now learning about these Hatachi su (HJG 46W 8B) carburators.

My 1974 has 1972 type (HJG46W 8B) su carbs on it. After three months on restoring her, i got some popping when i sprayed starting fluid in the carbs. The carbs were cleaned up and new gaskets from the z source installed, but i could not get the primary jet and or choke off the body. Now that it will not pull the gas into the manifold, i must get those parts apart and replaced. I went to the internet for help but could not find any details on my specific carbs. My jet assembly has a flex gas line coming from the bowl (held on with clamps) to a plastic component (looks like a crows foot) that is also attached to the choke linkage via a screw on arm, the center goes into the carb's body below the needle. There is an adjusting nut that has a stopper held on with a screw BUT NO JAM NUT that i can loosen to remove the jet ??!!?? When i try to rotate the choke linkage, it binds the arm, going to the plastic component but the assembly does not slide in and out of the carb's body. Sure could use some help here...Thanks

Yes, the clicking is coming from that area of the car and I have checked both sides of all fuses and there is power on both sides. Does the power go to the relay first, then the switch, and finally the wiper motor ??

I started three months ago working on my 260z (that has been sitting for 26 years) and getting close to starting her. My harmonic balancer is being rebuilt in Reddings, Ca. so I have turned to the last of the unworking auxilary systems...the windshield wipers. With the key on, and I turn the wiper switch to any of the three operating positions, I only her a click. No movement of the blades. When I disconnect the wiring in the engine compartment, and apply voltage to the pigtail of the motor, I can get the blades to move in two speeds. I have also checked the contacts in the light/windshield wiper lever and grounding my test light, I do not pick up voltage at any point. The lights switch is operating all the lights. How can I trace down this problem??? Thanks

If it is from the negative of the coil it may go to the tac, if the oem wired had been damaged. Does the tac work?

Thank you newzed for your help. I started doing some digging when you referenced a " rubber " in the pulley. That is the problem. I have located a company that can rebuild Hermonic balancers at a reasonable price and a good turnaround time. It is the "damperdoctor" at sales@damperdoctor.com

THE PULLEY WHICH IS THE HARMONIC DAMPER FOR THE MOTOR IS ALSO CALLED THE HARMONIC BALANCER. Almost all the non preformance harmonic balancers have a rubber type joint that makes them a three part assembly. YES the components can slip out of alignment and should be repaired or replaced. There is a company in Redding Cal. " damperdoctor" that can do it.

sorry for spelling error....the topic is crank pulley

I posted last week about tne missalignment of my timing marks when the number one piston was tdc. i got a response that said the outer rim may have slipped on the pulley hub or the crank key was not in place. today i removed the pulley and the key was there. i found a picture of a new oem 1974 260z pully and the timing mark is not in the same reference location as mine. the new one has the keyway at 1:00 and the timing groove at 2:00 balance holes at 4:00 to 7:00. my pulley has the keyway at 1:00 and the timing groove at 3:30 and the balance holes at 12:00 to 3:00. there is a rubber component in the pulley assembly about 1/8" wide and 1/2" inside the bottom of the V grooves. it looks as if the rim slipped, so do i need to just make a new timing groove on the od, or do i need to tac weld the rim to the hub or does the pulley need to be replaced???? Thanks for your imput

I am going to watch this one because i've had the same problem for 26 years. On new years eve in 1984, my wife and i came out of a party and my beloved 1974 260z would not fire but just crank it's little heart out. We got a ride home and the next day i went back with a trailer to get it. When i put the key in, the motor did not turn more than a revolution or two before she was purring like a kitten. I called the Datsun dealership a day of so later to see what it could be. I was told it " MAY BE " the transistor ignition unit that cost then over $800.00 plus labor but they were not sure and when they installed it...it was mine. They would just have to try different electrical components one at a time. I elected to try and trace it down myself and after some time and keeping up with a wife, three children, and a job, the car was parked. Now almost 26 years later, this retiree is tring to put the z back on the road. i hate all those relays and interrlocks in this car. i have most working again or changed out and have just purchased a new crane transistor igintion unit and coil that will replace the original ones, as well as, the components in the distributor. i got it from z source for a little over a hundren dollars. it will be here next week and i hope to get it install around Christmas. i will let you know if it works and if you find your problem out first, please post your solution.

I'll add my name to this list....Fell in love with the z in 1970 but in school and could not afford one until 1978. Purchased a 1974 260z and still have it, althought it has been parked for 26 years. Startd to restore it about three month ago and hope to drive it in January 2011. When it is complete, I'll post a picture or two.

I rebuilt my motor about two months ago and thought that i lines up the timing marks on the cam and crank correctly but now i am questioning myself. The motor is back in the car and for the last month or so i've been chasing electrical problems. Now the car is turning over and i was going to install the spark plugs and wires. I turned the crank to get the number one piston to tdc but the timing mark on the hurmonic pully was not lined up with the timing register on the cover. Here are my three observations standing in front of the car: number one piston tdc...first valve lob at 7:00 second valve lob at 5:00 rotor at 10:30 groove on pully at 10:00 OR number one piston tdc...first valve lob at 1:00 second valve lob at 10:00 rotor at 3:30 groove on pully at 4:00 or number one piston down about 3 inches...first valve lob at 9:00 second valve depressed lob at 6:00 rotor at 7:00 and the groove on at the timing mark I installed new timing gears, chain, tensioner, and guides..the new chain had different colored links that were to line up on the gears timing marks (on the right side 42 links ) The final product looked like the picture in the manual page EM-24 fig EM-99 Where should the cams lob's and distributor's rotor be pointed ?? Is the first valve an intake or exhaust?? Sure could use some ideas here...i do not want to dismantle the motor again. Thanks

The problem was corrosion and looseness between the igniton switch plug and the wiring harness plug.

Making progress...Thanks for your ideas. When I removed the igition switch plug from the switch I found some corrosion and looseness between the contacts. When that was cleaned up and tightend....it now turns over with the key. I have purchased the new crane xr-700 igition system from z-source and will not try to start the can until that is installed