MikeyM

SUSSED. I pulled the baffle out and drilled a 10mm hole in three of the sides. I also slid clear tube over each of the solder joints on the wiring. It now pulls like a mo fo. I'm so friken stoked. I'm pretty sure It was because of the wiring shorting, not the holes. The relays don't get nearly as hot as they were before. I might put an undrilled baffle in there later to test.

I've been doing some bits and bobs, mostly boring shit like uni-joints, window regulators. I've closed in the tunnel, makes such a difference: I've finally gotten to a point where I can try and sort out the poor running. It stutters when you floor it sometimes. It seems to have gotten worse recently. It seems to be related to throttle position, the engine will sometimes stutter a bit when I put my foot down. Sometimes it'll die completely unless I release the pedal a little bit, at which point it picks up again. I'm pretty sure the ECU & throttle body are still operating when this happens because the induction noises seem to match the pedal position - even thou the engine isn't firing. The engine is fly-by-wire BTW. I haven't worked out if it's fuel or spark that's missing, I'll try and suss that tonight. I've had some nagging doubts about some of my wiring so last night I: Moved the ECU and O2 heater power supply off the fuel pump relay and on to their own relays. Added a fat new ground cable to the ECU. Cleaned up all the surfaces for the other grounds. Used fatter wires for the fuel pump. There are no unusual codes being thrown. Remaining doubts are: The Fuel pump relay still gets pretty hot Wondering if the ECU ground should be seperated from the other grounds that are there? The pedal sensor wiring is a bit iffy. This is the fusebox I'm using:

I made it to Leadfoot Ranch and back and met Rod Millen. We got to drive the driveway, the whole thing was fantastic. by SnoozinRichy, on Flickr by SnoozinRichy, on Flickr by SnoozinRichy, on Flickr This is what the engine bay is currently looking like Inspection light: All and all I'm stoked with how the car ran. There was an issue with putting my foot right down, the ECU would go into failsafe mode when the pedal goes past 100%. That was easily fixed by winding out the pedal stop. The engine stumbles a little bit sometimes when on the gas, for now I think that's an earthing problem. Will tidy up the earths a little and see if it helps. And finally, the fuel pressure loses it occasionally and starts fluttering and bouncing like a tap hammering. Might need some dampening?

The angles are actually pretty tame, seems to work sweet.

TTT did a great job on the exhaust, pleased I got them to do it instead of trying to do it myself. It's tucked up there good and proper, no knocks. So I very gingerly drove it home, took all the back streets and scraped on about 8 speed bumps, probably should've just taken main streets. ha ha I got beached on the gearbox coming into the garage, so I really need to jack it up a bit. It is really low at the moment, the sump is about 3cm off the ground. I've sussed the bonnet latch and radiator fan, fixed all the guard clearance issues and got the airdam back on. I tried to take it for an actual burn last night, the ECU was switching to failsafe mode if I try to thrash it, I'd get into the top of second gear before it'd conk out. Then I'd have to switch the car off for a minute or so. I didn't get to check the codes but I suspect a bad earth or bad connection to the throttle body. Hopefully get it sorted on Saturday. Woo hoo!

Last night I put the radiator in. I got the outlets moved and a fan put in by Auto Radiators on Nixon St, can't recommend them highly enough they did a great job. I was gonna use a new aluminum one but really happy with this; suits the car better. The spacers are turning out to be a massive pain in the arse. A miscommunication ment they put a locator ring around the original one without taking out the id to fit over my hub. I did explain this was required but it was lost in translation. I'm trailering the car to TTT first thing tomorrow morning to get the exhaust made so the spacers have to be finished today. I also fixed my brakes after swapping the calipers around so the bleed nipples were at the top. And wired up the alternator.

I've hooked up a few more bits and pieces and the new airdam, I'll paint it to match the car when I have more time. Oh, and it runs! Andre and Sam from STM popped round and reflashed the ECU and we're all go. It sounds brilliant with just the headers. So this is what's left to do this week: * Get exhaust made - check with TTT when the can fit it in * Fit radiator - It's at the radiator shop at the moment. * Fix front brakes * Put front bumper and indicators on * Get wheel spacers to clear brakes - At machine shop, hopefully pick up tomorrow * Fix Leak in fuel filler neck I suspect the front brakes need a residual pressure valve. There doesn't seem to be any air in there, and if I pinch off the softlines the pedal is hard.

I've hooked up a few more bits and pieces and the new airdam, I'll paint it to match the car when I have more time. Oh, and it bloody runs! Andre and Sam from STM popped round and reflashed the ECU and we're all go. It sounds brilliant with just the headers. So this is what's left to do this week: * Get exhaust made - check with TTT when the can fit it in * Fit radiator - It's at the radiator shop at the moment. * Fix front brakes * Put front bumper and indicators on * Get wheel spacers to clear brakes - At machine shop, hopefully pick up tomorrow * Fix Leak in fuel filler neck I suspect the front brakes need a residual pressure valve. There doesn't seem to be any air in there, and if I pinch off the softlines the pedal is hard.

Got a fair bit done today, picked up the new driveshaft and put it in along with the axles. Reinforced the floor above the trans mounts. Put the guards back on. replaced a bit of rusty steel on one of them. I also managed o read the DTC's from the ECU, it is throwing NATS errors which is good because it explains why it's not starting AND STM are coming around tomorrow to reflash it and turn NATS off YAY!

A mate helped with some spannering last night and we made some good progress: * Put Windscreen back in, bonnet on * Assemble front suspension and steering

I reckon there's a 10% chance I'll be ready to roll for hahei. So I made a list and I'll give it a bloody good nudge! Stuff I need for hahei: * Get driveshaft made - should be ready by Friday * Get ex haust made - check with TTT when the can fit it in, hopefully next Friday * Put Windscreen back in, bonnet on - Tuesday * Fashion MAF housing from drainpipe - Tuesday * Assemble front suspension and steering - Wednesday & Thursday * Reinforce floor around trans mount - Saturday * Electric radiator fan - anything from pickapart, Saturday * Reflash ecu - STM next weekend? * Assemble axles and drivetrain - Sunday * Assemble front body - Next Monday & Tuesday * Get wheel spacers to clear brakes - Some on trademe, need guards on first to check fitment * Bleed brakes & clutch, Put oil in diff & gearbox - Next Wednesday * Fix Leak in fuel filler neck - Next Thursday * Mount accelerator pedal Stuff that can wait: * Fashion shifter boot * Fix rust in roof * Speedo * Tacho * Coolant gauge * Oil pressure gauge * Fix rust in guards * Paint airdam * Mount fuse box and ECU * Sort out radiator - can probably use stock one for now

Ha, yes, my workmates played a joke on me and put the "Real Doll" logo on the box my air dam came in. ha ha. It is start to come together now. I've got a deadline of having it running by next weekend so I'm pulling all nighters. My wife isn't stoked I'm hardly seeing her but it'll be done pretty quick. Stay tuned!

Righto, the engine's in and various bits and pieces hooked up. I now have a shifter again! The position feels pretty good but I may move it a little closer to the floor. And I swapped the 11.75" rotors for 12.19" ones which means I have a lot more braking area. I will need to make new brackets to locate the caliper 2mm closer to the hub but will run it as is for now. Next tasks are wiring and put the suspension & steering back together.

Bay's painted. Everything looks pink but I think/hope it's just my camera being silly. Fuel/brake/clutch lines (mostly) in. I'm using the 350z clutch master. Added another steering uni and rose joint to clear the exhaust/mounts The gearbox came with this relocation bracket which puts the shifter too far back. So I cut that shaft out between the two uni's and welded the unis together, then made another bracket. I also just dropped the engine in for the final time last night. Bought a new airdam It'll look a little like this My goal is to have it ready for a cruise on Nov 3rd. I reckon it's touch and go. The plan is to start wiring this weekend. Send driveshaft away to get shortened, put everything back together and then finally drop it off at ttt to get the exhaust made. It's a lot more fun putting a car back together than pulling it apart! ho ho

Oh yeah, good idea flipping the fuel line, I'll do that. I'm a little unsure about the downstream O2 sensors. Are they actually required? I've heard mixed reports. My engine didn't come with with them either. According to the fsm: MIXTURE RATIO FEEDBACK CONTROL (CLOSED LOOP CONTROL) SEF503YB The mixture ratio feedback system provides the best air-fuel mixture ratio for driveability and emission control. The three way catalyst 1 can then better reduce CO, HC and NOx emissions. This system uses air fuel ratio (A/F) sensor 1 in the exhaust manifold to monitor whether the engine operation is rich or lean. The ECM adjusts the injection pulse width according to the sensor voltage signal It goes on more about mixture self learning, but doesn't mention af sensor 2. Also, under "Multiport Fuel Injection (MFI) System" it says "[heated oxygen sensor 2] is not used to control the engine system under normal conditions." Are other people using the downstream sensors?

Yeah, thanks man. The brakes do need a bracket, but I've made a digital drawing of it which you're welcome to have. Then you can just send it away to get cut out. You're right about the VQ fuel being on the other side. The fpr is actually on the passenger side (right hand drive in new Zealand), I've put it there because their simply isn't any room amongst the master cylinders and stuff. I'll be removing the first damper from the fuel rail which means the soft line isn't too far from the fpr. I'll not be running the cats. The windscreen was really easy, just apply a bit of pressure from the inside with your foot and peel back the rubber a little and it'll slide out. Really easy.

They're copper nickel alloy.

I've been pretty slack on the updates, but things have been happening! Took guard off and fixed some rust. ^^ I know it looks like my car is being held up by a pile of old bricks, but I assure you it's not. Chipping away... Modified headers to clear firewall/framerail. I painted all my suspension stuff with 2 pack Chris did some more weldy weld weld weld. I relocated the fuel reg. I put new brakes together They're R32 GTR brakes, the rotors are brand new curved-vane Wilwood rotors 296mm x 32mm which I got for a very reasonable price from Pedey. Last night represents the a turning point in the swap - there's no more stuff to take off the car - from now on I'll only be putting things back on. YAY! Rust under the drivers side guard is way better than the passengers side, so that's nice. If things go really well on Satuday I might have everything in primer. (Nothing ever goes that well now thou does it?)

I've always planned to share the drawings with anyone who wants them, so here you go. These are the three parts which make up the mounts themselves, to make one mount you need to cut 2 x mount_upright.dxf mount_back.dxf mount_base.dxf mount_upright.dxf This will give you one of these: mount_back will then need a bend put in it to follow the contour of mount_upright and then cut the excess off. These drawings are slightly different from the ones I used; they include last-minute changes I did with the angle grinder. I'd also consider moving mount_base closer to mount_upright in the future, this would allow you to keep the steering shaft where it is if you ran the factory exhaust manifolds. I also have a diagram with measurements needed to make the new crossmember. The isolators I used are from a '70s Ford Cortina I think. They're 70mm x 35mm. I've lost the part number but this one is similar.

I've always planned to share the drawings with anyone who wants them, so PM me and I'll pass them on. The isolators I used are from a '70s Ford Cortina I think. They're 70mm x 35mm. I've lost the part number but this one is similar.

Yes! I've made a bit more progress. And you're right, the fuel lines will have to be moved to clear the g-box, bit of a bummer but not that difficult. A mate made me this sweet bend and tacked up my mounts. Everything came out minty. The isolators are 35mm x 70mm from a Ford something. I had to notch the back of the pipe to clear the TC mounts. And this is how everything sits. Shed loads of room up front! This morning I whittled up the g-box mount. All inspiration from Austin's mount. The two cut-outs are for twin 2.5" exhausts. The hole in the middle is for the one bolt which goes through the stock isolator. Some baboon (not me!) broke off some casing around the starter so I'll get this cut to fill the void. That's about it. I'll be stoked once the mounts are permanently in the car! But that feels a way off. I've got some clearance issues with the headers which I've started to cut up so I can put them back together again but with more clearance. I'm also gonna have to add another uni and hanger bearing to my steering shaft so I can clear everything more comfortably. I don't know what's available for this so I guess I'll have a poke around Pick-A-Part.

I'll do a test fit in the next week or so, I'm waiting on my mounts to come back from the welder. I fully expect to cut the bolster off. I really hope I don't have to re-do my fiel lines thou...

I totally appreciate that you have to cover your costs. But if I can do it myself, for cheaper, then I will.

I got some stuff back from laser-cutting. These bits make up one mount. Only cost 60 bucks for two sets! They're being welded up by someone more skills than I. So in the meantime I've been working on the fuel system. Got a Pulsar tank from pick-a-part for $50 and transferred over the access panel. It comes with nice electrical connectors and stuff. The tank's getting all the pin holes soldered up at a radiator shop. I'm gonna use the baffle tank in lovely pink from the same tank. Happily it accepts my fuel pump with open arms. One thing that confuses me a little about the baffle is it seems quite tricky for fuel to get inside. There's only one wee hole on the top and the sides are quite tall. There are little seams around the place that'll let fuel in though. I'm sure they know what they're doing... This is the caddy it clips on to. Drilled out the spot welds and welded it to the bottom of my tank. It's surprisingly tricky to weld blind inside a tank through an access hole not much bigger than your arm. Thankfully no one will see those welds. Then I bent up some 3/8's fuel line. More p-clips to come but this is the setup. I'm now starting to turn my attention to the driveline. Anyone have a R200 moustache bar lying around?

Thanks for the tips! I agree about the cross member cut-out. I figure more will have to come out once I've got the mounting finalised (hopefully in a week or so). I thought I'd just start small! My welder is a 160 Amp cheap no-name MIG. It's nothing special but has served me well as my first little welder. I wish I could afford something better but it's fine for most the welding jobs I come across. It'll do up to around 3mm comfortably, but definitely not 6mm.