MikeyM

I'm not completely sure what you mean. I'm using Ground Control camber plates which are bolted to the factory strut towers using 4 bolts, not welded. The factory strut tops only have three bolts. I realise some people run these camber plats _on top_ of the strut tower, but I interpreted the installation instructions a little differently from them. I'm running Koni adjustable shocks which required some mods to the bonnet to clear.

Thanks, I really like your build by the way! Very inspirational. I've been thinking the same thing about boxing the end sections and I think I'll do it. Will talk to my certifier first to make sure he's happy with it. I've got a question for you thou; what did you do for the rest of your fuel setup? I know you welded AN-6 fittings on both ends of your fuel rails. Did you then run a regulator with return line from the engine? Also how did you join up the front ends of the fuel rails? Just braided hose or hard-line? Also I've had trouble with pin holes when MIG welding fuel around fuel systems, did you TIG? Also did you baffle the tank or run a surge tank? I'm gonna do the fuel system on Thursday since I'm waiting for my mounts to get laser cut. Thanks!

I've half-done some things: Chopped some out of my cross member to make room for the sump. Wont shut it up until I've finalised engine placement. I stitch-welded around the strut towers: Started making the new cross member. Couldn't finish it be cause the pipe bender I was gonna get wasn't up to task. Will have to get one this week. Also my welder isn't powerful enough so I've just tacked them, the steel is 5mm. Everyone who comes and looks at the new lump says "cripes, how're you gonna clean it?" So I made a "soda blaster" It took a bit of stuffing about but it mostly worked. The plenum is the worstly corroded bit and the "soda blasting" didn't really help. But no matter, I'm gonna wrinkle paint that anyhow. The rest came up pretty good! Yay!

Thanks mate! I've read a lot of your posts and love your work! If it wasn't for you and Austin I don't know if I'd be doing this at all. I wish I had the HR engine too, I hope I dont live to regret that move. Yeah I'm prepared for cutting up the headers, I knew that'd be on the cards which is why I bought them; I didn't want to do all that work just to have the stock manifolds. And they were a really good price. I think the Mckinney kit makes sense but I've already started down this path and like the challenge and learning something new so I'm gonna stick with it. But yeah, they've done all the R&D and their design/dimensions work so it would save some stuffing about if I'd just bought them. However, they're $600 + shipping and taxes which is just crazy! If mine work they'll cost me less than $100 and I learn some new skills. Anyway, good to have touched base. Really love you car!

I've gotten a lot out of HybridZ so I figure you guys might be able to get some more info out of my transplant... I've got a 240z and have already put coilovers and camber plates in with ZG flares and Watanabes. Now it's time for the engine. (I have just realised I'm pretty much copying everything Austin does..... ha ha) I bought this: Stink things: Crack in sump. Bent vacuum spigot. Broken starter motor mount on engine. It's all pretty mucky/corroded/surface rusty. Unknown unknowns. Good things: None of the stink things are too hard to fix. Turns over, has compression. Reportedly has 33k on the dial. Everything's there. So the L24 has gone. I drove it to work the other day, I couldn't help but feel said. I mean, the engine runs pretty good, sounds super and has old world charm (by old-world-charm I mean it shakes the car to peices). But omelettes require broken eggs.... I got some other pieces the puzzle; driveshaft, fly-by-wire pedal, clutch master. I also bought these! (They're in better condition than my photography shows; just a bit tarnished) This is what I've cad'd up for the mounting senario. The red bits are getting laser cut as you read. Clearance with the steering shaft & zorst were the complicating factors. That pipe that sticks out the bottom wont go that low and will have a couple of bends in it before it connects with it's mirror image on the other frame rail. Also, the flat bit that sticks out the bottom of the red mount will actually be bent to follow the contour of the uprights. Clever cookies will realise they're similar in looks to the Mckinney mounts but I've not taken any measurements from their mounts, it's all been designed by me. So not a lot of actual work. But that's gonna change this weekend surely!

Cool, Thanks for confirming that JohnC. You're correct, I do want good handling. And wanted to get the best shocks I could that would suit the track without going totally overboard price wise. I dont want to go lower than what is beneficial, so it's good to confirm the 8610-1437's will go a low as I'll ever need. I've put in my order for them and GC coil-overs & camber plates. Woohoo!

Wasn't there a RIPS 240z that did 8.7 in street form. Not 110% sure if that was IRS

In your opinion, does the 1437 practically limit the amount you can lower your car? Or is it a non-issue?

Thanks. I'm not actually planning on going super low, but I'd like to go lower than most. Just trying to understand the limitations of the 1437's in terms of ride height. For example, can you get to the suspension-hit-frame senario with the 1437's or do you need the 1436's to get to that point?

Thanks. I'm not actually planning on going super low, but I'd like to go lower than most. Just trying to understand the limitations of the 1437's in terms of ride height. For example, can you get to the suspension-hit-frame senario with the 1437's or do you need the 1436's to get to that point?

One thing I'm a little unsure of is does it make any sense to use the 8610-1436 over the 8610-1437 at any point? If your lowering quite a bit won't the 1436 allow you to section more and give you more bump travel?

They fit Most people use the 8610-1437, the 8610-1436 is shorter but most people dont use it in Z's. Might give more bump travel in super low Z's? Yes I think so. Otherwise you can machine 40 thou of the ID of the stock inserts so they fit around the Koni inserts

I've read hundreds of posts about strut sectioning but am a little unsure of some of the parts needed. I putting an order through the good people at Ground Control today. I want to use Koni 8610's but do they fit a '72 240z? Some people seem to think they don't. Should I be using the 8610-1436 or the 8610-1437? Do I use the same shocks front and back? Is the Koni gland nut required? Thanks for all great advice!

Hey Guys, I can get my hands on a set of R16 9.5J -19 Watanabe R's pretty cheaply, my only concern is most people seem to get narrower wheels on the front. Do you lot have any thoughts on the matter? My car is a pretty stock 240z at the moment, if I get these wheels I'll be using flares.