Rumnhammer

We used an Autometer, no worries there. Chris

The wolf V-500 probably be here after the first of the year. Chris

Thanks Joe, I really need the incouragement, I put the car on the ground and loaded it up per the instructions and got the two control arm bolts on the rear torqued, but that damn rear sway bar is in the way of torquing the ones on the front down, so I'm going to have to pull the swaybar off to torque the ones on the front (pretty substantial torque 115ft lbs!) then reinstall that later. I'm really hoping that torquing the control arm bolts will get rid of that clunking, since going poly back there got rid of most of the movement otherwise. My friend who's car this is is getting the stand alone engine management, so I should be able to set all that idle crap from the ecu, but I really wanted to get this puppy going before using that. I tested out the TPS and it is giving proper resistance. I'm sure I'll get it sorted, this little stuff is the most frustrating part of the swap so far. Chris Rummel

Well, I'm pretty sure it is not an air leak. I have played around with the AAC valve screw and it is a bit better, although it still will stall. on a test drive, it will stall after driving and coming to a stop, after that I played with the TPS and the AAC again but haven't test driven it since doing that. I think what I need to do is get the TPS properly adjusted using a multimeter, because I think the inesiation point on the TPS needs adjusted (the point where the AAC clicks to control the idle). Other then that I have clunking in the rear end after I replaced all the bushings with poly, although I haven't torqed the control arm bolts yet so I'll do that and see if that goes away. I hope. I'm so close yet haveing this little stuff happen is really frustrating me. working on it, I really want this done! Chris Rummel

Thanks, I'll be torquing the control arm bolts and rechecking the mustache bar nuts too. I'm kind of thinking it is the mustache bar springing and contacting the hanger supports Chris Rummel

Hi, I was just going to post on here as I am having similar noises in the same situation. Only thing different is that I've swapped in an RB25DET. The driveshaft is brand new and fits properly, it has brand new spicer joints in it. Also a brand new front isolator mount, and I just finished replacing all the bushings in the rear with polyurethane replacements. I don't think that there is that much diff movement. The only thing I have left to do is the final torquing of the control arm bolts. I'm really at kind of a loss as to what this is. Chris Rummel

Hey, Joe you are more then welcome to come over and check out the RBZ, as it is still in my garage, much to my shigrin:icon_frow I would also be happy to help you out in any way possible. I did all the custom fabrication myself. in my little shed. email me directly or pm on here and I'll give you my address, etc. Chris Rummel

On a lighter note, I think I solved a differnt problem, I was having. The tranny was popping out of gear, particularly the ones to the rear 2, 4, and reverse. I took the top of the shifter off to check the spring was still in place and after replacing it, noticed that it was snicking nicely and staying in gear. Turns out the stock Z shifter boot (the rubber one under the shifter plate) was new replaced as of the swap. I had cut the hole larger to accomidate the larger RB shifter, only problem was with that in place the stiff rubber was litterly pushing the shifter out of gear! I was thinking man, this tranny only has 50k miles on it and nothing unsual came out when I drained the tranny. so I removed the boot and cut the hole larger to make it so the shifter moves inside the boot without contacting the shifter at all and I think that may have solved it. Man, sometimes the simplist stuff is the most frustrating!!! Chris Rummel

Thanks guys, I emailed Matt, he thinks it is an air leak too, I discoed the line going to the BOV and plugged it, and it didn't make a difference, FWIW the problem is happening with any minor rev up from idle, we're talking just bearly moving the throttle, not really enough to make any boost or activate the BOV. To start it and let it idle is fine though I mean rock solid idle, it only screws up when you touch the throttle. I'm kind of thinking that if it is not an air leak, then maybe it is the percentage of Throttle position opening. Because I'm running stock ecu but I have the Greddy intake manifold with the Q45 thottle body, to keep it plug and play I replaced the q45 TPS with the stock one, but 20% of 60mm is different from 20% of 90mm if that makes any sence. I'm thinking about trying the Q45 TPS back on it to see if it helps since there is some reference to the TPS in the last couple pages of the Greddy manual in kanji so i can't read it. I'm also checking for leaks as well. We are replacing the ecu with a programable one that nixs the MAF anyway so that could resove the problem too. Chris Rummel

Well, after putting the new Nismo regulator on last night, I started it today and adjusted the pressure. Only problem is, I'm still haveing the same problem. I'm thinking that I'm eliminating a few small bits of the problem, but it still persists. The car starts and idles fine, but when it is reved up, it has a hard time settling back to an idle, it will sometimes stall. I know the AAC is working because when I move the throttle I can hear it clicking. I think the regulator helped though because it doesn't seem as rich now, the damn idle still is giving me trouble. Any ideas? I'm really scratching my head a bunch now, the idle and timing are spot on. I'm thinking about going back over some of the plugs and making double sure that everything is pluged in tight. Chris Rummel

That's what I would do, if the ecu is not working the pump, make one side of the relay to ground and use a "hot when on" to turn the pump on with the key. When using the ecu it will turn the pump on for 4 seconds to pressurise the fuel rail, then turn off until the motor rotates, then will turn back on. Wired directly it will run constantly with the key on. Chris Rummel

You could just unplug the VTC that would be the easiest way to disable it. Chris Rummel

David, look at the posting in the sticky at the alternator wiring, the last link you posted was far superior to the Zcar creations one, notice in the 1975 wiring, it is supposed to have a green/red stripe wire? Mine didnt' have that, so I did a very basic convertion.. It really doesn't matter what shape the connector on the VR is because really you don't need to worry about most of the wires going to the VR. Going from the wires at the alternator, the white/black stripe wire that goes to the L connector on the alternator gets connected to a good "on when hot" really can be any one, I just ran one out to the engine compartment and through the hole where the green/red wire was supposed to be, the white/black wire then goes down to the alternator, where you will need to wire in a diode like I show in the pic, this is like a one way valve that keeps the engine from continuing to run after turning off the key. You will need this if you are using the RB alternator because it is 90amp. The Yellow wire you can splice into the RB wire in my case was light green that goes to the RB S terminal on the alternator, this wire you run right to the main battery terminal. That is really all you need to know about the VR removal, I hope that clears it up a bit for you. Chris Rummel

Ok, it sounds like you have a differnt series RB25 then I had. I have the first series 1. It only has the one ignitor, for the individual coil packs. You may have a R34 series I believe these are slightly differnt and likely have a different pin out on the ecu. Basically if you know what wires you are dealing with, you should be able to hook them up similarly to what I posted in this sticky. Even though the wires may be going to different pins on the ecu then mine, if you chart them as to the function, then it doesn't matter what color they are or # they are. if that makes sense?? So if you match the function with the wire in the sticky it should work. Oh, and that Z car creations alternator regulator guide was totally wrong for my application, the sensor wire on my car went nowhere, and the hot went to ground on the 75 zcar, which is why I ended up doing it my way for that step. You can, primarly use the Z car lower harness, instead of splicing it into the RB, (Q did his car this way) I spliced mine in because I wanted it as plug and play as possible, and also the AAC valve wiring is on the lower RB harness as well, so you at least need to run the wires for that separatly if you use the majority Z car lower harness. Chris Rummel

Thanks, I redid it with the bar behind the mounts once I changed it, it became more apparent, because of the jink in the mustache bar, and the fact that with the bar in front of the mounts the diff was pushed forward way to much to correct. next time I'll take a pic before hand and save myself the head scratching. Again thanks you guys. Chris Rummel

That is also good, but not stock, that shows the billet one behind the control arm mounts, but I need to know how the stock one goes. Chris

Thanks, but I used that site already to see how the mustache bar is oriented, but unfortunetly it doesn't show what I need. What I need is a shot of the diff in the car that shows if the mustache bar is in front of the rear mount supports or behind it. on the 240s it is in front, but the R200 bar looks like it should go behind the mounts, I screwed up and didn't take notice before I took it down. if you have a 280z with the r200 diff and can look under and see if the mustashe bar is in front of or behind the rear mounts that will work too. Chris Rummel

Hi all, just a quick request, anyone have a pic (own or a link to) of the rear suspension of a 280z? I'm putting the mustache bar back in, and I have it in front of the two rear suspention mounts that come down in the back for the rear control arm mounting. I can only find pics of 240s and that has it in front of the mounts, is the R200 on the 280 mustache bar mounted the same way? thanks Chris Rummel

If money is the main issue for you then do the Ls1, FWIW all parts for the RB are expensive, and if your goal is 450hp then you are looking at first a larger turbo, bigger injectors, some type of programable ecu, etc etc. For the money the Ls1 will get to your hp goal much sooner for less money. In other words it is much easier to get to 450hp with the Ls1 since you can get a crate motor that makes 300 right out of the box, then it won't take much modding to get to your goal and go fast stuff for SBC engines is much cheaper then RB stuff. Chris Rummel

Thanks, I went the long way around the bush though, I got a autometer adapter and reused the stock Zcar sender. I'll add this info to the wiring guide though for those that follow. Chris Rummel

You are the man, my friend! I found it at a place in AZ for $107.00 I'll order it tomorrow. I also found an article about the stock regulator that says the problem is that the stock one has a hard time properly releasing fuel back into the return line, this causes extreme pressure in the fuel rail and floods the engine, which is precisely the way the engine is acting, it is flooding the engine with way too much fuel until (I'm assuming ) the pressure equlizes in the rail and the idle can recover. I'll have my friend order it. Chris Rummel

Myron, my man I believe you are correct sir! I havent' plumbed in a gauge on the fuel rail yet, but i'm thinking I don't need to. I sorted out the idle adjustment and checked and adjusted the timing all that is good. Still fumy at idle, the car revs up just fine, but going back to idle it is really bogging down, and blowing black smoke out the exhaust with a nice soot layer inside the tail pipe now. It is definatly super rich, So I need some info on the Nismo FPR. Is it adjustable? how much is it?, part #? where is the best place to get it? Also does it mount in the stock location in lieu of the stock one? I'm all about factory replacement stuff. I'm thinking that all that do this swap should be aware that without the fpcm, you will likely experince this problem. Once I get this in and adjusted I'll add it to the swap pages. Chris Rummel

Hmm I'm going to try and sort a few things this afternoon, I know that there arent' any boost/vac leaks for sure. Not sure about the fuel pressure, the return line is the same size on the Z as it was on the skyline clip, so if it is anything I'm guessing it would be the fuel pressure regulator, this is a very possible problem, since I remember Zdrifter had a problem like this and it was solved with an adjustable regulator. I say it is possible because, the stock RB uses a Fuel pump control module to regulate the voltage to the fuel pump to help with the pressure, I have the pump wired with 10 gauge wire for the purpose of having plenty of juice for flow. The FPCM is located in the rear of the skyline, so you dont' get it with your clip......... I have a fuel pressure gauge that came with my turbo kit for my miata, that I can plumb inline at the fuel rail to see what pressure I have. Where did you get your Nismo regulator? from Shea? I'm guessing the Nismo regulator is adjustable? I know I'll get it going, just kind of frustrating to be this close to a decent test drive. I'm thinking this car is going to scream when it is sorted though. Also I'll add to the swap pages with these little gremlins when I'm done too. Chris Rummel

The air regulator seems fine, since it starts when cold, and idle slows when it warms up. The throttle possition switch seems pretty important according to the manual, apparently you disconnect the TPS harness connector to interupt the throttle feedback and open up the AAC to adjustment, it is also referenced to allow the timing to be adjusted. What info do you have that says it is not important? Basically, what is happening is the car will start and idle fine, once warmed up, the idle comes down, from around 1krpm to about 800 and will idle fine at that point, if you rev the car at that point and let it go back to idle, it almost dies, and will sometimes stall, if it doesn't stall the I get about 10 seconds or so of the idle hunting before it finally settles back to a regular idle. I don't think the BOv is to blame, since this happens even with minor reving, below the point where the BOV will vent, for instance I can rev it up slow, without the BOv venting and in letting it go back to idle it will still do it. I was unable to do adjustments this evening, but I want to try getting the idle near 650rpm like it is supposed to be and then check the timing, since I did replace the timing belt and had the CAS out and have not rechecked the timing yet. Chris Rummel

So I started it up yesterday, and some things good and still have questions about others. First with the AAC powered up now, after the engine is warmed up, it runs smoother, (probably due to the 02 sensor getting power now) and much less fumey at idle, I'm not getting gassed out anymore. Also now that the AAC is getting power I backed the throttle body screw all the way closed since the ecu is supposed to control the idle via the AAC compleatly, and once warmed up it drops down to a decent idle abet high around 800rpm, where as before without the AAC powered, the idle would drop off and stall the engine, without bumping it up artificially with the throttle body screw. So at that point i was thinking I was good to go, but then I tried reving the engine to see how it would do, and it is still having a hard time settling back into an Idle after reving. Like nearly stalling and then taking probably 10 or 15 seconds to recover. So I refered back to the manual trouble shooting and I may try to adjust the idle screw on the AAC down a bit to see if I can get it down to 650, then check the timing. After that I think I might be at a loss as far as stabilizing the idle at least with the stock ecu. We are already looking into a fully programable replacement that will delete the MAF and convert to a MAP sensor. I was reading in the trouble shooting that disconnecting the throttle position sensor opens the AAC up to adjustment so it can take a "SET" so to speak, anybody confirm this? if so then maybe after I try this to adjust the idle it will use this to base the recovery idle on??? Guess I'll have to try and see. Chris Rummel