TurboSE

I'm reassembling the intake side of my motor. Most of the hoses weren't connected when I bought it, and I'm not sure where they go. What I think: 1: Brake booster - I'm running a boosterless master cylinder, so can I just block this? 2: Small nipple on plenum. - This is pinched a bit on mine, can I use #1 instead? 3 & 4: Large nipples on plenum. 5: BOV 6:? I appreciate any help!

Got it, 5lb sledge....wooden block....done.

I picked up a tranny jack from Harbor Freight, that $80 netted me another 1/4"... could the throw out bearing be resting against the pressure plate and holding me off the last little bit?

Trying to put my RB25 tranny back on my RB26 and it won't slide all the way in. I can't get them any closer than about 1". I'm using a Giken STR clutch/flywheel. I used a Z32 alignment tool. The clutch slides onto the splines off the motor, so I know that fits. Both the engine and trans are out of the car, on the ground. I've tried it with the trans in neutral and in gear. I've tried lining it up with jacks, blocks of wood, an engine hoist. I don't want to try and pull them together with the bolts, that idea just sounds like a disaster waiting to happen. I've tried a light coating of grease on the input shaft. Any ideas I'm missing?

Sorry if that was a newb question..I've just seen enough back and forth on this subject to be unsure if it's worth the effort. But I'd don't want to tow my car back from the strip and post an engine failure a Hybridz and have someone chime in with "shoulda had a return on the head"...while the head is off (and the pan is already modded) I might as well install the drain. but is it possible for the head to drain too well?

Couldn't have posted this a month ago before my head was assembled? Do you think this and the rear drain would be overkill? Using the two in conjunction couldn't cause problems could it?

Do you think the screw on style is necessary? I had a press-in and my machine shop lost it while building my head. They didn't realize it and reassembled the head. Will the head have to be disassembled to install the screw on type?

Is anyone still making these?

My pistons are 86.5, and Nitto only makes 88mm gaskets.

About to slap the head on my RB26 and I'm in the market for a head gasket. The machine shop shaved .005" off the deck. I was wondering what gasket everyone would recommend. I'm thinking 1.2mm.

Mine was professionally done, but I want to prep it for paint since the welds from the tubs are in primer (S13)

After reconsideration, I see a lot of benefits. I could do it in my cabinet as well, but as we stated above, there would be a lot of fine dust. This way i can do what I need outside and wash it away with the hose.

I have the HF 40lb. siphon cabinet, so I'd probably be better off buying a portable blaster. I want to do my engine bay anyhow, so I'll get a few uses out of it. I know what kind of dust aluminum oxide puts off, I can imagine soda would be a lot worse. This one has decent reviews...

Could I use soda in a regular blast cabinet? Would be nice if I didn't have to buy another tool just to do this...

How about this? http://www.harborfreight.com/12-volt-rubberized-heater-with-fan-96144.html

thanks, never called them that. The surface is machined now (not polished), still recommend this method?

Never blasted with soda, I assume it will work in a standard blast cabinet? Maybe I can deal with the crudded up ITBs. I figured my machine shop would have a way to clean aluminum since they can soak the head without damage.

THIS...was my concern, I've seen other TB's with similar material. I'm thinking I may cut some cork to fit the ITB holes to protect the blades. Any opinions?

I would like to leave the factory finish.

That was my thought as well, but I think the walnut shells will give a better finish.

Awesome, not sure about the dry ice...but I'll look into the walnut shells...thanks!

It's a short block. Where do I find an Arkansas stone, I'm unfamiliar with these?

I'd like to clean up the parts in the pic below and I was wondering what the best way would be? I have the capability to glass bead or sand blast at home, but I'm worried about getting excess media in places it won't come out of. Is hot tanking a good idea? Is there anything special I should consider before doing this?

So I had my RB rebuilt and in the time it's taken me to acquire my head parts, some very minor rust has "grown" on the head gasket surface of the block. I was wondering what was the safest way to remove this. Some PB Blaster on a rag and some elbow grease has made progress, but I was wondering if something like CLR would work better. I've read that abrasives (plastic scotch-brite pads) are a bad idea. Any thoughts? After I get it clean, should I wipe it down with some WD40 or something to stop it from coming back until my head is finished?

Now thats good info, thanks!