Brycey

these new hubs are suppose to be very close to the standard offset (within 1-3mm), so taking into consideration that im going for a wheel thats far beyond the stock spec, -13 is the way to go?

cheers for that guys just got the bakes installed so the need to get some wheels is now very real! i have sent an email to Arizona z car asking for advice on the offset, hopefully ill get a reply soon so, is it uncommon for a 240z to have 9 inch wide wheels installed? i thought that this would have been relatively common for the big projects.. is this a bad idea? and how close would the -13 come to fitting? cheers everyone

thanks for that detailed comment mate! as my car is an ongoing project that is currently (and has been) off the road for some time now, the required body work to fit such rims under the guards is not a problem as the body work is the final stage (currently on the last leg of the mechanical stage) iv heard mixed reviews about the 18in ride quality, I’m just after wheels that are big enough to fit over the brakes. I’m pretty sure 17in will do the trick but it would be nice to have some breathing room in there as they are quite large brakes i was advised that the difference between the 6 piston and 4 piston is pretty minimal, but the reason why i chose the 6 piston is so i could go the larger rotor with ease i wasn’t completely happy about getting drilled rotors (as you mentioned) as they are prone to cracking and has less overall surface area, but im exceptionally happy with the quality of these rotors, so this shouldn’t be a problem.. the car is intended to be half street half track car, so the finer details shouldn’t be too much of an issue as the car won’t be pushed to the edge every day.. i think i will have to get back in contact with Dave as he was very helpful throughout the importing process, and i really need to get a jump on these wheels as there is a 3 month wait once ordered!

hey everyone hows it going? i have just received my big brake kit from arizona z car for my 240z and im just about to order some new wheels to actually fit over the brakes (volk GTM's) the dimensions that i have settled on are 18x9, and the offset available in the volk GTM range are -13, -3, -1. as far as im aware the 240z has a standard offset of zero, but with going to a wider wheel is it required to step into the negatives or do you keep the standard offset requardless of width? here is some info on the brakes http://www.arizonazcar.com/brake.html (i have the 5 stud all round, 6 piston front, 4 piston rear, 13in front and 12.2 rear) can anyone advice me on what offset is best suited? im keen to order asap as once the brakes go on i will have no wheels to move the car around with! any help is much appreciate!! many thanks

g'day mull, hows the progress?

so whats the latest mull

heres a pic, the blown out part is very visable its on the exhaust.. im gonna go for a full metal one next time.. just a real kick to the bum for this to happen, its all gotta come apart again. so i think that im going to get a L24 EFI manifold and a new fuel rail.

yeah it might be the type of gasket i used this time around.. here is a pic, i used the bottom one as the top one is stuffed as you can see it was kinda alkward gasket matching as the bottoms on the new gasket were circle :| no idea why, but i think im going to get a full metal mesh one rather then this style for the new one.. it jsut really really sucks because i just got it all back together and running really well - for about 10 minutes then for this to happen.. really disapointing.. oh well i guess this topics mystery is fixed, thanks again guys massive help, have a good one edit - my gasket has blown out just above number 6, there about a 3-4mm gap no idea how it did it, but its done.

its all good, all sorted a mate came around just a short time ago with his spare TPS and its all fixed and running great but as things go, the 4 day old intake/exhaust gasket has blown out on number 6 -this is the exact issue that caused me to take it off the road in the first place. not happy if anyone wants me ill be in the corner crying

alright well i just took it of the TB but cant figure out how to open it :S it seems to have 2 rivets on the back that follow through to a blank screw face.. how do you open her up :| also i should have mentioned that i rewired the intake manifold, thermostat etc while it was off the road to hide alot of wires etc but i checked it about 5 times just then and its all correct..

thanks for that mate great to know, ill get right onto it and ill post up my progress when it happens, thanks again guys

ill go investigate now.. is it just me or did unplugging the TPS make it slower? - or in other words, if i fix this problem will i get the power back or is it my imagination playing tricks on me thanks for this guys, lifesaver

wow you were right tec280zx! and i think i am running lean naviathan, i rebuilt the engine and converted to 5 speed around may this year and never had a professional tune done, but never had this problem.. im going to get a tune done in the coming weeks now that i have it back on the road it feels alot slower though.. so how come it cuts with the throttle position senser connected but it dosnt cut with it disconnected??

hey guys, hows it going? just thought i would post up to see if anyone has experienced this problem or better yet knows how to fix it!! the short story, i have had my 280zx off the road for about 4 or 5 weeks i guess, i put new extractors on, changed diff mount, fluid change all round etc, but because i put on new extractors i had to get the extractors welded to the existing exhaust... so this morning the drive to the exhaust shop was very loud one. i picked up the car about a hour ago and everything sounded great and felt really good. so i thought after being so long i might put my foot down alittle. i got out onto the highway, put my foot down from a stop and it quickly climbed to around 3k then all of a sudden CUT no more power. i immediately pulled over because i thought something had gone horribly wrong but after checking everything then checking everything again it all looked fine :| the car idles fine, revs fine and freely in neutral but if your putting it under load it will cut between 2800-3200, and its a very severe cut.. im assuming its a fuel related issue but the only thing i did to the fuel system was install a new fuel filter and replace the old engine bay rubber fuel lines ( and they are connected correctly). I tried it a second time to see if it was just a one off and it happened again but I kept the foot down and it was almost like a violent rev limiter for 3k, it would build, cut, drop, build, cut, drop etc. i found that you can reach any amount of revs you want if you baby it and climb the tacho slowly, it revs very freely and fast in neutral but once you select a gear and boot it (any gear) it just dosnt want to, this problem just occurs :S iv never had this problem before and its a big tease not to mention very worrying. any help would be fantastic as im keen to sort this out ASAP thanks for looking

amazing work, fantastic to watch, love it

thanks mate just got it all sorted

hey guys just wondering what size welsh plugs the L28 takes? there are 4 on one side, 5 on the other ( all 9 are the same size) then a slightly larger one behind the timing chain and a very large one on the rear.. i have already spend $50AUD on welsh plugs that are s l i g h t l y to large, so if anyone has some sizes for me that would be a great help, thanks guys

basically this is what im looking to do. i realise that the hubs must be changed to skyline but it seems as tho the skyline hub couldnt be more different then the 240z ihave all calipers (4 spot front, 2 spot rear from R33 GTR), all rotors(R33 GTR), R200 LSD diff(N/A Z32), rear drive shafts (Z32, needs to be modified obviously), but im having trouble finding the correct hub for what i want to do.. any advice or past experience anyone wants to pass on? im at the point where the engine is almost ready to start and brakes have become the focus so i need to get this underway, any help or advice would be great

mmm i didnt think there would be much in it to stop the AWS, i was told you could just weild it up or something but i was interested in finding out if there were other methods, but also about the main installation of it, im already gettin the drive shaft modified as im installing a RB25 so thats not an issue, but for the actual bolt up for it, does anyone know if its just a direct bolt in, or if the CV's need modifying and if this whole plan will actually make any difference in the end?!?!?eheheh thanks guys

hey guys just wondering if this can be done. a complete rear cradle of a Z32TT with AWS ( i would like to eliminate the AWS if possible)into a 240z, is there much hassle in installing this into a 240z? does it just bolt right in with minimal fabrication or is it a bit of a mission? any help would be great, thanks guys

hey everyone im new to this fourm and i was wondering if any of you guys could help me out, im located in NSW - Australia and im seeking the front bar and possibly the side skirts linked below http://www.showcars-bodyparts.com/240z-C-carburg.JPG http://www.showcars-bodyparts.com/240z-C-headlightcovers.JPG also im currently looking for some rear wide body pannels such as the one linked below http://www.showcars-bodyparts.com/240Z-racewideREAR%20FENDER.jpg any help would be great, im just looking for a supplier that would be willing to ship to australia, thanks for looking guys