Greg SmileZ

Sumo, I've purchased grade 8 bolts at both the Ace Hardware in Grand Prairie and at Elliotts Hardware in Grapevine (they have a great selection), and I think there is an Elliotts in Dallas somewhere (and Plano). Hope this helps! Greg

For my 280, I used some angle iron and strap and fabbed a hold down that fits in the stock mounting holes. Looks clean. I've sent you a picture. Check your email.

I installed my slave cylinder (stock T-56) and Tilton 7/8" master cylinder tonight, and would like to hear how others work........when you depress the clutch pedal, when does the clutch disengage (how far from the floor)? Thanks, Greg

Just wondering....when you depress the clutch pedal when does the clutch disengage (how far from the floor)? I installed my slave cylinder (stock T-56) and Tilton 7/8" master cylinder tonight, and would like to compare. Thanks, Greg

I've read JTR and their suggestion on re-routing the front brake lines when you use block hugger headers. I am curious what others have done. Did you following JTR suggestions, or do something different. Thanks, Greg

Shouldn't this be posted in the Drivetrain section and not here? Seems there is alot of this going on......

Shouldn't this be posted in the Drivetrain section and not here? Seem there is alot of this going on......

Dan, Very nice seats! Did you loose much or any headroom, and how tall are you? Thanks, Greg

I searched the archives for more info on experience on hydraulic throwout bearings (HTB)and did not come up with much. If it has been covered else where I apologize.... I have a T-56 and a Centerforce flywheel and Dual Friction clutch. Does anyone have experience using a HTB with that combination? A HTB sure seems like an easy way to solve the slave cylinder problem that many have discussed on this forum. In advance, thanks....BTW tomorrow I plan on calling Centerforce, Mcleod and Tilton to findout if any of them can help with my question.

BLKMGK, Look forward to seeing the pictures! Please let us know when they have been posted. Greg SmileZ

Davy, Thanks for the suggestions. I did have problems getting the pilot bearing out after I hit it too hard and seemed to mess it up slightly.... A racer friend of mine suggested filling the cavity behind the pilot bearing with wheel grease, and with an old input shaft from a transmission give it a pound or two and the hydraulc action will pop the old out out....It worked great! Spotfitz...have not really gotten that far along since you last saw it. Front brakes are complete, still have to clean and paint the engine compartment and then install everything. Thanks for asking. Greg SmileZ

Has anyone had any difficulty installing a GM pilot roller bearing in their crank? My crank was previously used with an automatic trans so it has never had a pilot bearing installed. It seems very very tight (actually too tight) to get it in. When I have installed them on other cars, they did not seem that difficult to install. Has anyone else had that problem? Thanks - Greg SmileZ

Thanks to both of you. The hole in the crank is not threaded, where the other holes are. I have assumed it was for a locating pin. I have purchased new bolts for both the fly wheel and pressure plate, but not sure if either the fly wheel bolts, or the pressure plate bolts should have lock washers. I think the fly wheel bolts use star lock washers, and I don't think the presure plate uses any lock washers. Comments? Thanks!

I have a CenterForce Flywheel that I am mounting on an early SBC. I have the six bolts to attach it, but there is also a "locator" type hole in both the crank and the fly wheel. Is this something that is necessary, or required? If so, I assume I can pick one up at a Chevy dealer parts counter. Thanks for the help. Greg SmileZ

I am installing the Toyota front calipers along with my engine swap. So I also decided to replace the front wheel bearings while I had everything apart. I ordered new front wheel bearings from Motorsport. I tapped out the old bear races, and had a machine shop press in the new races. When I got them back today, one (one of the four) of the races will spin in place. Should I worry about it not being pressed in tight? Should I try and apply some locktite so it will not rotate at all? Any suggestions will be appreciated. Thanks, Greg

Lone, My brother has a '32 Ford with a SBC (show type car) and that hex nut on the oil filter is where he mounted his oil pressure sending unit. It does make for a very clean look. Greg

I have a question regarding the mounting of the JTR Hood Latch Braket. On page 7-8 of the JTR book, it says to mount it 1.2" below the bottom edge of the ledge. How critical is this measurement? If it were mounted 1/8" lower (the same position of the stock mount in relation to the ledge) will it interfer with the distributor? I did not re-read the book when I went to mount the bracket, and placed it in the stock position. Before I take it off and re-drill 5 holes in the firewall, I would like to know if I will have a problem with the mount 1/8' lower. Thanks! Greg SmileZ

Does anyone know the URL for the Carl Beck Posting on IZCC. I looked over the site and could not find it. Thanks, Greg

DavyZ, Did you use the Zolotone product? I also am wondering what paint to use for my engine compartment. A friend has recommended Zolotone and he likes it. Any additional thoughts on the subject since April, or anyone else? Thanks, Greg SmileZ

I have not purchased wheel locks in a long time....It seems that the two popular brands now are McGuard and Gorilla Has anyone had experience with either one? Which is better and why? Thanks, Greg SmileZ

Anthony, I live in the Dallas area and went to visit John's cars a couple of years ago. I spoke with John. My general impression was that Z conversions are not his primary business. He specializes in Jag Vs conversions. When I asked to see a Z that her had converted he walked me out to a Z that was not running not much of a sales tool. I say that JTR is the only way to go even though I still don't have mine running. Mike at JTR has been helpfull when I have had questions, and this forum is great. BTW - I did buy John's "mini-manual" to see what his product/instruction manual was like....about $25 if I remember....again, JTR is the only way to go. John tried to convince me that then engine setback that JTR offers was not significant (John's is in the forward position), I think it will make lots of difference. Just my thoughts... Greg SmileZ

Does anyone have a copy of the pages for General Motors shop manual for a T-56? I would hate to have to buy a complete manual to get just the trannie pages. Thanks, Greg

quote: Originally posted by Kevin Shasteen: David, Your in Dallas(?)! If you're looking for a custom driveshaft shop; there's one that has been in Dallas for ump-teen years. From I35-e take I30 heading west like your gonna go to Ft.Worth. Almost immediately after you're on I30 look to your right & you should see the main Dallas U.S.Post office; take that exit as if you're gonna go to the post office. Once you're on the service road get in the left lane & go to the Stop Light & take a Left under I30 (basically making a U-turn) & the driveshaft shop is right there on your right. Its basically on the other side of I30 from the Post Office. I've always found them reasonable; they'll work w/what ever you need & they can balance any custom driveline in their own shop! I believe they have some crazy name like "The Driveline Shop" or "Driveshaft Shop"....what a silly name! Kevin and David, I had my drive shaft shorten and balanced at the Driveshaft Shop you mention on the southside of I-30 in Dallas. About $90 and less than 24 hours after you drop it off. Have not driven the car yet, know several dirt track racers that swear by their work....

I purchased a converter called Cable-X from a company called Abbott Enterprises. Hope it works (have not installed it yet)...not cheap, but did not want to go the JTR rework route....Check out the website. Just another option..... http://www.atrol.com/cx_era.htm

quote: Originally posted by Mike kZ: Found some Dynomat substitute from JC Whitney, but costs a lot less. I used it on my car, and it worked great. It's 32"X 54" sheet, for $24.99. It has a self stick adhesive backing, like Dynomat. I used 2 sheets and have some left over. Part # 12RH5514A Has anyone used the "Plain Wrap" brand I see at auto swap meets? Alot cheaper, but equal. I know you get what you pay for, but Dynomat is exepnsive. Thanks....