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kcelectronics

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Posts posted by kcelectronics

  1. Hi if it was the CPU fan then it is most likely the CPU has died! They don’t like zero airflow. I was cleaning my M/B and removed the fan to clean it and didn’t refit it properly, I hit the on button, the fan fell off when it fired up, and before I could power it down the CPU was fried!!!!! (all within about 10 sec) so your M/B and H/Drive are probably Ok You could find a replacement CPU on Ebay for a few $$ (maybe a faster one! This is what I did so it wasn’t a complete disaster (fried the 850mhz and installed a 1.5mhz) so check your M/Board manual to find a compatible speed)

     

    And don’t forget to make good contact between the fan and CPU! but if you buy a new fan it should have a heat transfer pad, but I also added heat transfer compound to the huge new fan i fitted as I also "Over Clocked" the CPU!

     

    Colin:twisted:

  2. If you are using an EFI pump you WILL need a pressure regulator that returns the excess fuel back to the tank, these pumps will easily provide over 50 psi!! And don’t use a pressure regulator for a carb type system as this type will “Dead Head†the pump (no flow) and EFI pumps rely on lots of fuel flow to keep them cool.

     

    Colin:twisted:

  3. Yes if you are running a pressure regulator that bleeds off the excess fuel back to the tank it will work as Hanns explained which is what you have, and you cannot run a carbtype “Dead Head†type regulator with an EFI pump as the pump requires fuel flow to keep it cool!

     

    Does your exhaust blow black smoke at idle and low revs before it runs OK?

     

    Also check out Power Valve thread at CHevy High Performance.com

     

    Colin:twisted:

  4. Don’t wast money till you are sure of the problem, I am amazed at how much money is thrown at a problem with out it being fixed, I have read many posts where a simple problem has caused grief and has had many expensive parts changed without a positive result. There was a guy who changed his plug leads, distributor cap, distributor, carbie, fuel pump, and battery? because his engine had a misfire after changing his spark plugs! Turns out that he had cracked the porcelain insulator when fitting the plug and convinced himself that it couldn’t possibly be the problem as they were brand new!! So my advice is to find the problem unless you want to go this route!

     

    Again I say if the pump was the problem then you would see the fuel being pumped out of the vent tubes on your Holly and the engine will cut out.

     

    A low speed miss fire could be running to rich or to lean, but if you say that it “Smooths out and picks up†you should really should look at the carb, it may be an ignition problem but I doubt it as they usually show up under load which you don’t seem to have.

     

    Long-range diagnosis is difficult so if you could supply more info about this problem it might help us to pin point your problem.

     

    What manifold vacuum is your engine running? Who rebuilt the carb? What value Power Valve is fitted? as the stdandard ones are quite high 14â€~15â€?

     

    Colin:twisted:

  5. If the fuel pressure is correct at about 4~6 psi then you don’t have a problem with it, carbies have a fuel bowl full of fuel so unless the pressure is in excess of this figure you have a different problem. If the pump was over powering the needle and seat it would cause the engine to stop, as eventually the fuel would start to pour out of the carbs vent holes (you would defiantly see this) and the engine would flood. The symptom you describe sounds like the power valve could be too low! What manifold vacuum does your engine have at idle/low throttle setting? I had a 302 that had about 12†of vac at idle and I had a 13†power valve so it was open even at idle I changed it 3 times for the same value, before I worked it out and installed a 8.5 and the problem was solved?

     

     

     

    Was the carbie new? Has it been run and then stored for several months as this can cause the Gaskets to shrink and uncover some of the internal passages which send vacuum to the small chamber that the "Power valve" sits in! which would also cause it to be open at Idle Just a thought.

     

     

     

    Colin:twisted:

  6. If you can get away without the bend in the flat stock all the better, I was just concerned about the leverage created by the length of the spacers, and at the very least it probably would have allowed the G/box to "bounce/flex" up and down, but eliminating them will allow a bigger contact area between the Sq tubes and the floor-pan area.

     

    Colin:twisted:

  7. If you plumb your surge tank correctly then this pump will be ok as it only need to top up the tank with the fuel used by the injectors, (this should be less than with a carby if the electronics are set right)

     

    What are you using as your surge tank and where is it mounted?

     

    Colin:burnout:

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