kcelectronics
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Posts posted by kcelectronics
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I would take it for $50 just the wheels!!! its also got the wrong front bumper, give it a wash and see what condition the car is in? Als is it manual or auto?
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I have been running a 1/4" spacer in one side for over 10 years, never worried about it then dont worry about it now.
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I have used a blade from a power hack saw (about 1" wide 1/16"? or so thick) cut to about 8" long and sharpened like a chisel at one end, and grind the teeth off.
I have been using the same one for the last 20 years!!! I also be used as a gasket scraper (this was what I origionaly made it for).
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What about these, on the US Wheel Site?
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That rubber dust seal sits about 3/4"~1" behind the main oil seal (as you probly already know), I have removed it from some of my Transmissions over the years, also G/box manufactures have to cover all types of users, Clean City driving or Dusty/muddy Dirt road Use, well maintained or abused, and will within reason try to make their product as reliable as possible, and this dust seal is just one of these areas that can be removed if the conditions are right, only you will know if you will need this dust seal.
Personaly I would remove it! and save the time and money required to shorten the Drive Shaft. (spend it on something useful)
Also I have had the driveshaft rubbing on the dust seal and all it did was slowly wear it away, this was why I have also removed them from other g/boxes.
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I see it, and I still don't believe it!!!!!! WTF:shock:, May be for a set of training wheels, for when he want's to go stunt driving on 2 wheels, or possibly a fast attack vehicle???? This is the machine gun mount LOL:burnout:
Also its LHD??? In the UK?
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I might be stupid but the Diff doesn't move???? why should the distance shorten????
The rubber that is touching is realy just a dust seal, and many G/box seals don't have them.
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But, could I put a psi regulator b/tw the intake and the booster just in case?? Or would this be a bad idea, I know that the booster only needs a small amount of vacuum to function,
This is one area you don't want to mess with! There are millions of cars out there, and none of them have any sort of Vacuum "limiting" device, so you DON'T NEED ONE. And the more vacuum the better, I have a ford with a 351 and BIG cam and I need a Vacuum reservoir, just so my brakes will work continuously, the engine doesn't produce enough Vacuum at Idle (about 11" ) to provide enough boost for the brakes (It will stop but I need to really stand on the peddle), It really needs the engine to be used as a brake, so it will produce the higher vacuum needed (just lifting off the throttle while cruising is enough to raise the Vacuum. Level).
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Looks Suspect! for someone that doesnt know what it is, she? seems to know a lot!!!!! maybe her boyfriend was helping her. LOL
If you could use paypal then you would have some comeback. if it was my money it would stay in the bank.
But then if you were going to do a Rip-off why pick this item to sell? could be legit?
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There is also a module that does the Auto function, and I think that the P/W motor is different, but I am working from memory. I will check and let you know.
You can buy window close modules that can be adapted, they are commonly used with alarm systems to close all your windows when you remote lock/arm your alarm.
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Now thats one ugly BMW!
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I doubt that your mods have created a higher vacuum, (bigger cams usually do the reverse) But if you are using the engine to slow down on a steep down hill grade? Especially if you down shift first? This may be the cause of the problem, although the booster should be more than able to Handel this, I think may bee you were just unlucky, and the "New" booster may have been faulty?
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I know its an optical illusion, but the Red makes it look longer?
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I am not sure if they are still available new as they were originally made around 1970 they were available in 4 and 5 lug, 13",14" and 15" and various widths from 6"~9" possibly wider. The company that first made them was "Mullins Wheels in Adelaide Australia" http://www.mullins.com.au/home.asp
They did do a run a few years back of the 15' x 7' Ford 5 lug as they were originally fitted to one of our Ford GT HO Falcons (thats the rear 1/4 of one in the first link above) so they are still in demand by restorers.
There are always sets for sale on EBAY.AU but most have the standard Ford 5 lug bolt pattern, as these were the most popular fitment. I just did a search of Ebay and there are several sets (mostly Ford) just go to. http://www.ebay.com.au/
And do a search for Bathurst, you will probably get a lot of hits on other stuff, as Bathurst is one of our most famous local Motor Racing events
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That is an Australian car, they could be Performance, CSA, or Globe there were a few copies that look the same from a few manufactures over here.
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It may be the harsh electrical environment? The wiring on any automobile is very "Noisy"! and the voltage can swing from less than 10v when starting to over 14v (this is not the main issue, and a stable supply voltage can easily be built), But superimposed on the DC voltage can be large voltage spikes, (Ignition voltages, relays switching High currents, Etc.) all of these can cause faulty signals.
Of course, all of these issues can be addressed with enough time and R+D.
I wish you well and keep us informed, with your progress, and as you may know several companies, who now produce after-market ECU's, started this way, and went on to become famous suppliers to the "Motor Racing" world.
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What are you intending to use it for????
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By reading the description, there are "Rubber Bellows" so I would give them a call to check.
"Description
Moog EV164
Moog Inner Tie Rod Ends are heavy duty OEM replacements complete with rubber tie rod boots.
RIGHT - INCLUDES BELLOWS
2 required per vehicle.
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[quote name=J.
In the end' date=' the last bidder, with the highest bid wins..... [/quote]
Thats what i thought, you were OUT-BID so how can you say :-
"He didn`t outbid me....he just got the last bid in."
If you had as high bid of $1000.00 and he bid $1500 in his one and only bid you still have lost out to him by 1 bid increment??? Thats why its called an AUCTION,
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I Have as saying that applies to your question (and many others)
"Some is Good, More is Better, and Too Much is Just Enough"
I am sure you will have fun, and after driving for a few days you will want "MORE POWER" to quote Tim The Tool.....
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Yeah....I wanted the cylinder head and some @sshole snaked it at the last second before the auction would let me respond. It's been mine for the last two days.
No ethics....I think Ebay needs to initiate a respondent program....
?????? But Ebay is an Auction? He just bid more than you didn't He? So you were "OUT BID" how can Ebay have " No ethics" ???
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If you read the description it may be the correct item? (Rack end) maybe its a "stock" picture??????????????
Are you looking for ITEM #9 from the diag. below?
[ Moog Parts ] Fitment Guide
1970-1978 Datsun/Nissan 240Z/260Z/280Z
Description
Moog EV164
Moog Inner Tie Rod Ends are heavy duty OEM replacements complete with rubber tie rod boots.
RIGHT - INCLUDES BELLOWS
2 required per vehicle.
Special order please allow two weeks for delivery
diagnosing
in Nissan L6 Forum
Posted
Is that shell from the rod end (top) or from the cap (bottom)? if it is the upper bearing it could also be Detonation damage?