Co0ke

Well, found out what my issue was over the weekend. I was back home from training and thought i'd drive the car a bit. Poured some dry gas in the tank and took off with my brother. We were able to go about 10 miles just cruising around the lake and suddenly dead.... I was rolling down hill the first time and got her to pop start. but only made it to the next stop sign when she quit for good. When I tried to start her up I was just getting a plume of black smoke and a strong smell of gas. She would fire up, but only for a few seconds and would just flood out. Luckily I nice gentleman who lived across the street named Perry came out of his garage which had two lifts, four cars and four awesome motorcycles. We quickly talked about what was happening and decided to try the FPR. It took me 40 minutes and premium price at an autozone down in the city to find one in stock. But that did the trick now she's running much better. I guess with the FPR dying on me it made sense that the idle wasn't great and it would choke out a little when I was off the gas. Back at training again. Can't wait to drive her when I get back. Getting close to finishing the break in period and I'm dying to open her up!

been a while since I've updated installed my walbro pump and the car ran a ton better. Also removed the coarse filter before the pump as it was creating a lot of restriction. I could really hear the walbro screaming then and it has since calmed down. Fuel pressure is now looking like it should. Just trying to break in the engine, haven't installed the hood just for the ease of monitoring the engine. Feels like i have a considerable power increase already even though i have barely let the needle exceed 3000rpm. Unfortunately about a week ago I was out at night with my dad tooling around and I stopped to get gas, almost immediately after exiting the station I got on it a little and the car started to stumble and stall I could barely keep it going. Made it home ok but every time I gave it a little juice it would stumble and stutter....probably bad gas or something I assume. sucks that its a full tank of it. Haven't got out since that night. I've been insanely busy with work and life. Bought another car since I need something that looks professional and has AC for when I start selling real estate. It's a 2002 BMW 330CI convertable fun little car and now maybe my dates won't cringe like they did at the look and smell of my rust bucket of a truck

Tried to take the car for a drive and everything was fine except what I think is a fuel delivery issue. I didn't want to really get on it before since I didn't have a tach but once I got that hooked up I tried to rev it up and it pretty much dies...almost dies. Kinda weird but my fuel pressure gauge is only reading at the most 30 at idle and drops to below 20 when I rev it. Going to purchase a warlboro. Hopefully that fixes it. In other news all my exhaust components have arrived and I will be gabbing that up soon. Going to leave it straight piped at first just for fun but I bought a dynomax ultraflow that I may or may not use. Who knows maybe ill like it straight piped:)

Looking good Andy. Can't wait to see yours running. You mind telling me where you sourced your exhaust piping? Jegs? I'm looking to do pretty much the exact same set up. MSA down pipe, adapter and 3" back to the muffler. Also, just because I'm too lazy to measure, what length straight pipe did you order?

Thanks! I'm super excited. Me and my brother were laughing about the fact we were in complete shock that it actually fired up and ran on the first try. I like to think ill get to a point when ill be shocked that it doesn't. Put the new fuel injector in today and now she puuuuuurrrrs and revs so nice! Can't wait to drive!

Man tough luck, hope you find the problem. I have some things to tidy up before I can take mine for a spin, I'm still nervous every time I start it that something will blow up.

Where I'm at today: Cylinders 2 and 5 weren't firing found out it was not getting fuel. Cleaning the FI connections got 2 working, but 5 still wouldn't go swapping the injector wire onto 6 and 6 worked so im guessing if I can't get the connection clean enough its the injector itself. Picking up a new one from autozone today.....$33 for an injector works for me Got an air filter and a breather for the valve cover while I was out.

She lives!!!!!!! Last vid I took of the L24 And the turbo first start! I'm excited, ignore the fact that I sound like a homo and don't know what I'm talking about. Turbo First Start.mpg

Looks like your about to cruise around ...I need at least anoth week.

I found the condensor! Didn't take any pics of that yet but it all makes sense now. I have four condensors.....from somewhere i don't know, but three of them have only one connection and I was so confused as to how it was meant to hook up. Anyway I got pissed on Monday and took everything out of my garage, re-organized and stumbled across the condensor with two connections! Driveshaft is in....not balanced. Cut the U-joint off the old one, used a 1" strip to increase the diameter and tapped it snuggly into the larger zxt driveshaft. Definitely custom, hopefully holds up and doesn't vibrate or I'll just drop the money on a custom one. Still have to finish wiring up the fuel relay. I attached the black/W wire to the fusable link box and to the battery and the EFI Relay clicked....so that didn't seem right without a key in the ignition.

It's official! I have a job this summer and can now spend all my $$$$$$$ on the Z! Ordered a boost gauge and an inline fuel pressure gauge, hopefully they get here before the weekend and I can get the car fired up!

Thanks, the relay I grabbed had all those prongs and plugged into the old female end. It came out of a cluster. Hopefully it works. Forgot to take a decent shot of the coil. Every wire coming out has a place to go. So I'm assuming all is well and the small box with the T connection looks like the ignitor to me. The round plug blue wire plugged into the harness and goes to the tach I believe. I have what appears to be the condensor on my old coil just one y connector to the mounting bolt. Aside from the CAS wire which plugs nicely into the harness, this wire is coming out of the distributor can't figure out where it goes or if its important? Oil sender T connector. A way to test or know which goes to the gauge? does it matter? Figured out the Green and Brown wires ....have the old fusable link box. Must have known it was important and kept it Here's a pic of where the intake is at. I know most of these can be deleted. Will any need something to compensate for them?

While I'm waiting on the Driveshaft, I decided to tackle the fuel pump, radiator, vacuum hoses and some of the wiring this weekend. I'll post some pictures, maybe later today. I got stuck a few times but think I grasp most of it. Current issues: -Fuel pump relay - I forgot to grab this off the donor but there is a ton of just standard relays still attached to other harnesses. Can I just use a standard relay? it plugs right up or is there something special about the fuel pump relay? -Fusable links...Looks like I need a few that I didn't grab hopefully I can find some in my mess of wires (not sure if I've seen what one looks like lol) - Condensor that connects the Coil to the distributer....What does this look like? I must have it but dont know what I'm looking for anyone have a picture? - Crank Angle senor is in the distributer ive been told but does it need to be connected somehow? - Oil pressure sender has two connectors, the 260z one had one. I read that one is a switch or something the other is for your gauge. is this correct? so I can just attach a wire to whatever the correct connecter is and get a reading? Thats it for now that can think of.

I was just about to bring my two driveshafts to my neighbor who can weld the flange from the 260z shaft to the ZX shaft and shorten it. When I got excited about the swap. If I'm buying side stub shafts, a mustache bar, and shortening the driveshaft, along with the concern about halfshafts being too long and causing handling issues, then maybe it is a better option to just customize the driveshaft for now. It wont be long before I'll be shopping for an LSD swap and It doesn't make sense to spend the time and moey twice. .....I really appreciate all the knowledge and help on this site. I literally sit there feeling overwhelmed at times until I come here and find what I need. What are your thoughts on the smaller u-joint on the back of the ZX driveshaft? I suppose if i blow it up its only a bandaid for now anyway.

I did some reading about the R200 swap and JMortensen's guide on the differentials states that I will need the following parts to complete it: 1. mustache bar from 280Z with R200 2. yoke (companion flange) from 280Z with R200 3. rear cover from 280Z or ZX with R200 4. side stub shafts from 280Z or ZX with R200 to bolt up to stock halfshafts I'm a little worried I didn't grab the mustache bar off the donor car before it went to scrap :/ ...I hate the feeling of thinking I forgot something. He states that the side stud shafts need to be from a 280z or ZX. Think I read they have a different splin count. But can't find where. Maybe ill pop one out of the R180 just to check. Mine has the CVs and both are shot. I think ill pull the R180 out friday or saturday and see if I can source everything for a swap.

Yeah I jusT wanted to state my issue and solution concerning the build in the project section and leave the tech help stuff here ....bad idea I guess.

About two thirds of the way down he talks about swapping out the flange....I assumed he was swapping into an R180 since the article is about putting a t5 from an 83 turbo into a 240z. Not clearly stated but implied I guess. I still need to figure out the best course of action. -Weld the flange from the 260z driveshaft to the 280zxt driveshaft while shortening it (diameter difference may be a problem?) - just make a custom driveshaft with remove able u-joints and such? - try and put the "R200" in? I really wanted to wait till I could afford an LSD to do any expensive custom work to the rearend. But my credit card may just need to take a hit here. Man I hope I get this new job!

Here are some photos of the diff out of the 83 zxt donor car. R200? The last pic is the 2 different flanges Help plz

Well I just posted for help in the drivetrain section. The differential flange out of my 83 R200 from the 280zxt is no where close to the right size to swap into my R180. This guide http://datsunzgarage.com/borg/ clearly states that it should so I'm confused. Maybe I don't have an R200 or an R180 and one of the POs for either car swapped it ? Seems unlikely

I have an entire donor car L28et. I understood that it had an R200. I'm leaving my R180 in my 260z but when I went to swap out the differential pinion flange the one from the R200 is fitted to a larger diameter pinion and will definitely not swap over? All my info on the swap came from this guide.... http://datsunzgarage.com/borg/ Why is this wrong and how do I mate my T5 to my R180?

If I weld the Diff, it won't happen till I have the LSD ready to install. I just want to try it for myself to get first hand experience and hopefully blow through some tires I honestly don't know what the 260z tranny can handle, pretty sure there is a sticky about all the trannies. I am using the 5-speed Borg-Warner out of the zx turbo. Progress is still slow until I find out about my summer job. If I dont get the job the project will basically be put on hold until the fall or if I can find something else as I will only have enough money to eat and pay bills for two months.

Thanks, I just hope after all is said and done it runs and doesn't explode too soon before I get a chance to enjoy it:) Small update: Life has been getting in the way. Have been in search of a summer job/career change amoungst other things and have neglected the Z. I did get the tranny mounted up with a little fudging and slotting of holes. Didn't really have the right tools and went at the holes with a drill bit in a dremel my only concern was possibly shifting the tranny ever so slightly sidways on its mount. Next is the driveshaft, definitely need to shorten it. I will know how much when I get the yolk from the R200 in there. Plan on sticking with the R180 for now since I don't feel like sourcing everything for an R200 swap and I plan on going LSD eventually anyway. Heck maybe ill experiment with welding the R180 since its only in there temporarily.

Thanks for the encouragement, I always feel like I could do better, but its nice to get a compliment on the progress. Well, the motor is in. In other news the transmission mounting point is about an inch farther back than the old one. I guess I assumed it was going to line up. Read a few posts where people slotted the holes in the tranny and the mount and made it work. so I'll try that. Haven't checked yet, but it also looks like the driftshaft will need to be cut based on my readings.

Got the Engine bay painted with POR15. Learned a few things while i was at it. It got dark the first day so I had to wait till after school the next day....approximately 18 hours between coats. I roughed up much of the POR with 220 grit before applying the second coat and left some on the firewall alone out of curiosity. Well it didn't want to stick to the firewall so after a day of drying depending on humidity (probably) one must rough up the POR15 before applying a second coat as it will most likely not be tacky enough. I know they make a product to tie coats together but I'm not waiting for another shippment and I'm really pleased with the results. This stuff definitely appears bullet proof like they say. Also to be clear about the prep work; I used a 4.5in wire brush on an angle grinder for most of the paint/rust removal and purple power for degreasing then the POR paint prep to etch the medal and prep the rusted spot ....let it fully dry and applied two coats of POR. Getting excited now as the engine will be dropped in this weekend! then it's time to make her roar!

Pulled the 260z in yesterday and got the engine out in about 2 hours with a little help from my brother in law. Much easier with a hoist Starting to clean up the engine bay. Have some POR15 on the way. Going to paint the whole engine bay with it. Battery tray needs attention of course. Dont have a welder so the small hole that no one will ever see will remain for now.